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Manu Mach1
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Hello,

 

Back home, the car is in the garage. I spent good time with my brother :)

The trip:

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To be continued...

Mustang, Mach 1 and 351

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Wow that is cool photo's big congrats on your new Mach 1 [emoji41] Regards DK73

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Regards DK73

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73:whistling:

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Be sure you take lots of pictures before you take anything apart it looked like it had not been changed much from original.

I believe that when You got a Mach 1 in 73 you got the hood as part of the package and it also included hood locks. The hood might have been changed over the years. I looked at my window sticker and it does not list the hood or locks just the Tutone Hood Paint that cost $18.00.

Keep the vinyl top the trim pieces, clips and pins go for $300.00 USD here if you can find them.

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Félicitations pour l'obtention de votre 1973 Mach 1 la maison sains et saufs. On dirait une Mustang originale 1973 avec roues mag fentes correctes. Beaucoup de plaisir à venir pour vous!

Tim: Restoring 71-73 Ponies, Restoring People

139A1893.jpg

 

 

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Merci monsieur Pasteur :)

Looks totally original, there are 88000 miles on the counter. I don't know if it's possible that the tires are original too, they are not useble anymore, and size are 70x14, like it should be at first.

This week end I will jack up the car the maximum high I can and will start to picture underneath, make pictures for sure, and keep all numbers I can find, gearbox, transmission etc...

 

Anyone knows about Goodmark sheet metal? I found a tail light panel on Ebay for a cheap price shipped to France.

Mustang, Mach 1 and 351

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Last night one of the other members with a 73 Mach1 had the info on why you don't have hood locks. The NASA hood did come with the Mach 1 option. If you got the Tutone Hood Paint then you got the hood locks included. The hood locks were not a separate option. That was a deal you got the Tutone paint and the locks for $18.00 retail $15.26 dealer cost.

The tires back then did not last very long I got as little as 2,000 miles but I was burning the tires and sliding around lots of turns.

There are a couple makers for the tail light panel, Goodmark and Dynacorn are well known. I personally have never had to replace one so I cannot say who is best. You should build a list and order at one time and save on the cost and shipping. The replacement metal panels are mostly easy to find you can almost buy the entire car. Order catalogs from suppliers so you know what is available. Some items on eBay are a rip off and some are good deals. Most bidding happens the last few seconds of eBay auctions unless it is something that has a good buy it now price. I have purchased items at swap meets and resold on eBay for 4 times what I paid.

Don't start cutting out panels before you have the replacement. You need to brace the back end before cutting out the tail light panel to hold the correct width and you need to get some measurements to get the new panel back correctly.

There were not too many stickers on 73 cars, they are on things like wiring harness and some interior parts. Lots of stamps with yellow paint and grease pencil markings on sheet metal and also engine. Things like the rear springs, drive shaft. sway bars and such have a color coding with several colors of paint.

There were inspection stamps all over the engine round circle with a number of the inspector. It is sort of odd that I have two cars with the same inspectors stamps a bold MM or WW depending on which way you look at it. Picture included.

One thing you should do is pull out the seats. Take the outside seat belts off, Torx drive bolts, remove the door sills and lift the carpet. The broadcast sheet or build sheet is probably still under the carpet. It can be under the sound insulation also. Be careful when lifting the insulation. The last one I found was folded up and on the seat riser on the drivers side. Sometimes they are under the rear seat or under the dash just stuffed in. I attached a picture of what you are looking for. This tells everything about your car even has a place for special order instructions on the bottom. I did scan the sheet but cannot read much on this one too much rust stain and damage. You can zoom in on the scan to see more detail. The picture just lets you know what you are looking for.

I have found swivel head sockets inside the car that came from the assembly line. When I took a console out there melted into the carpet was a cigarette that someone had put down the someone else put the console on top of it while lit. It is sort of a CSI or mystery hunt when you take a car apart you never know what will be there.

I am sure you have heard of a Marti. You can order the simple one that gives the options your car came with and basic info for $18.00 or you can get new door sticker, Marti report, widow sticker and all but gets into the hundreds for that. I you have a special order car the Marti will not tell you anything about the special order just that it was a special order not what it included. Also pic included.

Long reply but want you to get started out right.

David

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I will order the Deluxe Marti report, and maybe the invoice. Already get the one for the Grandé.

About the nasa hood I read that in 73 it was not functionnal, was there just for the look. This week end I want to remove seats and carpets to see what I can find, as you said we never know what we can find. What I don't want to find is some coolant liquid on the passenger side, I did replaced the heater core on my Grandé and was a pain in the a.., so I don't want to do it again, plus the Mach 1 get the A/C.

But if i have to do, I will do of course.

 

I found this today in the glovebox.

 

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Mustang, Mach 1 and 351

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I will order the Deluxe Marti report, and maybe the invoice. Already get the one for the Grandé.

About the nasa hood I read that in 73 it was not functionnal, was there just for the look. This week end I want to remove seats and carpets to see what I can find, as you said we never know what we can find. What I don't want to find is some coolant liquid on the passenger side, I did replaced the heater core on my Grandé and was a pain in the a.., so I don't want to do it again, plus the Mach 1 get the A/C.

But if i have to do, I will do of course.

 

I found this today in the glovebox.

 

 

 

You could get ram air on an H code engine 351 2-V but Ford forgot to submit the Q code 351 4-V with ram air for government testing so they could not sell with ram air.

You could buy as dealer option as I did and add it after you took delivery. All the foam in the heater air cond. box is probably gone and might be a mouse from the U.S. living in there. If you do take the box out again you can put a piece of mesh wire over the round part of the heater box that goes up to the cowl to keep the critters out. I actually put 1/4" box wire under the vent on top of the cowl also. We have lots of chipmunks and squirrels here along with the mice that like to build homes in there.

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I found a lot of things in the car, but unfortunatly the paper I was looking for is destroyed :(

Things need to be changed like the water pump, alternator bearing, plus A LOT OF THINGS.

 

 

Something afraid me a lot, on the idiot light the oil red light is on at low rpm and dissapear with higher RPM.

Mustang, Mach 1 and 351

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Something afraid me a lot, on the idiot light the oil red light is on at low rpm and dissapear with higher RPM.

 

It may just be the old sending unit. You could just switch the old sending unit out for a new one but you probably want to know what you have. Buy or borrow a mechanical gauge that you can use to read the real oil pressure first.

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I plugged an electronic pressure gauge and read around 14.50 psi at idle, warm engine. Then around 45 psi at high RPM, looks ok I suppose.

 

About the water pump, is better to install an aluminium new pump or keep something like the original?

Mustang, Mach 1 and 351

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Be sure you take lots of pictures before you take anything apart it looked like it had not been changed much from original.

I believe that when You got a Mach 1 in 73 you got the hood as part of the package and it also included hood locks. The hood might have been changed over the years. I looked at my window sticker and it does not list the hood or locks just the Tutone Hood Paint that cost $18.00.

Keep the vinyl top the trim pieces, clips and pins go for $300.00 USD here if you can find them.

David

 

About the hood, I found some interesting information in a "Mustang Restoration Guide" book:

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Which correspondaing to my sticker:

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And I found out what means 16A on the Chilton book:

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So, or the hood have been changed over the years, the air cleaner box too.

God only knows.

Mustang, Mach 1 and 351

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Manu,

 

::congrats::

 

You have it brought home now ::thumb::

 

That's a keeper, looks totally original as David mentioned!

 

He is right in saying:

 

ordering a Mach 1 in 1973 with an engine bigger than the 302 you had automatically the so-called NACA-hood! If you didn't order the TuTone-paint you didn't get the hood-locks. So it seems to be all right on your car and all original! Mine was this way too - but I "need" theTuTone-appearance and I will add correctly the hood-locks... ;)

 

David is also right on the Ram-Air-thing: originally you could get it automatically by ordering a Boss or an 429 in 1971. There and later in 1972 you could order it as an extra option for all 351C engines which has to be on the Marti report, too. In 1973 you could only order it for the 351C 2V! I have added it nevertheless because my engine contains the best of both worlds from 1971 and 1973 and it is a 4V so it is quite legit :D And a ram-air-hood needs ram-air! Period :D

 

With the valve cover decal you are right - I bought one which was produced exactly for those engines and our cars - and it is nearly the same as yours! You "G" after the "A" stands for your automatic transmission, mine is manual...

 

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Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Be sure you take lots of pictures before you take anything apart it looked like it had not been changed much from original.

I believe that when You got a Mach 1 in 73 you got the hood as part of the package and it also included hood locks. The hood might have been changed over the years. I looked at my window sticker and it does not list the hood or locks just the Tutone Hood Paint that cost $18.00.

Keep the vinyl top the trim pieces, clips and pins go for $300.00 USD here if you can find them.

David

 

About the hood, I found some interesting information in a "Mustang Restoration Guide" book:

 

Which correspondaing to my sticker:

 

And I found out what means 16A on the Chilton book:

 

 

So, or the hood have been changed over the years, the air cleaner box too.

God only knows.

 

Ok I would say the restoration manual is incorrect since Ford did not have a 351 4-V ram air in 73. You cannot see all of my sticker in the photo but my car is Q code 351 4-V, 4 speed with air, ps, pdb. Number is entirely different from yours. Does the manual show this number?

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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David,

 

I think, you are right!

 

I bought my decal as for a

 

1973 351C 4V with ram air!

 

So it is correct for my application but not "original correct" for a late '73 4V with 4-speed manual.

 

YOUR decal on your original left car is the decal that I should originally have if I all had left original because I have the same car as you. But I think little period correct modifications which I like are allowed... ;)

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Thank you Tim, yes of course I will keep it original as possible, I even don't want to remove the exaust to set some Hookers or whatever.

So, David we can read on your sticker K621 A G or A 6?

Anyway the book says: 1973 Mustang 351C-4V Non/Ram Air Engine.

 

Not the first time I found mistakes on this book.

Mustang, Mach 1 and 351

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Fordification and MustangTek, lot of informations there, good found.

Water pump is ordered :)

That's all for today.[/font]

Mustang, Mach 1 and 351

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Be sure you take lots of pictures before you take anything apart it looked like it had not been changed much from original.

I believe that when You got a Mach 1 in 73 you got the hood as part of the package and it also included hood locks. The hood might have been changed over the years. I looked at my window sticker and it does not list the hood or locks just the Tutone Hood Paint that cost $18.00.

Keep the vinyl top the trim pieces, clips and pins go for $300.00 USD here if you can find them.

David

 

About the hood, I found some interesting information in a "Mustang Restoration Guide" book:

 

Which correspondaing to my sticker:

 

And I found out what means 16A on the Chilton book:

 

 

So, or the hood have been changed over the years, the air cleaner box too.

God only knows.

Hi Manu

In the last photo in your post above which resto guide is this taken from please? I need some advice on the routing for the vacuum lines on the correct air cleaner I have bought for my Q code 72 Mach 1 and this looks to be just what I need. Thanks

Nigel B

 

1972 Mach 1 Cobra Jet 4 speed

 

 

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Nbracken,

 

About the picture from the vacuum routing it comes from the Chilton 64/73 repair manual.

About the 72 4 bbl it's about 10 sheets from the "emission controls", means 18 different setup;

Do you have ram air or not? Then I can start by elimanation.

 

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Little bit of progress

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Interesting to see how the fuel pump is activated.

Sprokets and chain looks good. Just very dirty inside, looks like oil from the drilling rig.

Mustang, Mach 1 and 351

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They probably ran a high paraffin base oil. My sister brought here AMC Gremlin over for my dad to work on. The valves were noisy so he pulled the valve cover. The paraffin had built up so bad it still looked like it had a valve cover on. One big clump of paraffin. She only used Quaker State oil since new.

Sludge build up is also a sign of lots of short runs never getting the engine hot and all the moisture out.

As long as it runs ok I would not worry about it. If you start trying to clean it up you might get the crud in the oil pump screen and then it pulls up and opens up the by pass hole that lets big chunks in.

Working on these cars always makes more work unless you set your limits. How far do you want to go??

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Quaker state oil is something special?

How far is difficult to say because we always find something to do on those cars, still need to rebuilt the original Motorcraft carb, all belts, thermostat, AC pulley, need a engine seal kit, C6 tail seal, 4 shock absorbers. Then will be the body work with a new paint, will be done by a friend which is his job. I want a reliable and clean car. Don't want to upgrade to get more horse power or things like that.

 

On last models I read somewhere that exaust seats head were reenforced that allow to use unleaded gas.

 

Ignition will be something I want to change by an electronic one.

About oil: what garde of oil is the best?

On my Grandé I use 15w40 mineral.

Also need to change oil and filter on the C6 and finally the 9 inch rear end oil but first need to be removed by sucking it? I drilled a hole on the Grandé, built a thread and set a plug, I could remove the oil easaly.

Mustang, Mach 1 and 351

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Quaker state oil is something special?

How far is difficult to say because we always find something to do on those cars, still need to rebuilt the original Motorcraft carb, all belts, thermostat, AC pulley, need a engine seal kit, C6 tail seal, 4 shock absorbers. Then will be the body work with a new paint, will be done by a friend which is his job. I want a reliable and clean car. Don't want to upgrade to get more horse power or things like that.

 

On last models I read somewhere that exaust seats head were reenforced that allow to use unleaded gas.

 

Ignition will be something I want to change by an electronic one.

About oil: what garde of oil is the best?

On my Grandé I use 15w40 mineral.

Also need to change oil and filter on the C6 and finally the 9 inch rear end oil but first need to be removed by sucking it? I drilled a hole on the Grandé, built a thread and set a plug, I could remove the oil easaly.

Oil is each mans choice. I do not know what is available in Germany. If you use too high viscosity the rings on the pistons cannot scrape the oil off the cylinder walls and you will use oil and build carbon on the pistons. When you change the grease in the rear you should just jack up the rear. take the drums off and pull the axles. You probably need axle seals anyway so good time to do that. Then drop the driveshaft, which probably needs the Universal joints at least greased if not replaced. Pull the center section out. That way you can wash out the inside of the axle housing. Metal particles collect in the bottom of the housing. Wash everything out and if you have Traction Loc be sure and add the Ford Friction Modifier to the rear grease when going back. The grease lasts at least 70,000 miles so you will probably never have to change again. The axle bearings might need replacing also and that would clean up the rear. Since the drums are off you should check the wheel cylinders for any rust and change if there is rust. The flex hose in the rear might also need changing. See one thing just leads to 10 more, lol. You will know your car from inside out.

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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The rear brake hoses on its way, all the rest of the brake is new, from the MC the front and rear brake kit. The front drums are new, and the front hoses too.

You said on a previous post "Sludge build up is also a sign of lots of short runs never getting the engine hot and all the moisture out".

This afternoon I open the plug pan to remove the engine oil, at first some clear water came, I never saw this before, is this can be because what you said? Considering this car comes from Mississipi, lot of humidity.

I won't remove the rear end, but the axles maybe, or I'll drill a hole and set a plug, like I did on the Grandé.

I guess most of people who run non rebuilt engines use 20W50 mineral oil?

Hey David, I leave in France :)

Mustang, Mach 1 and 351

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