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Manu Mach1
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The rear brake hoses on its way, all the rest of the brake is new, from the MC the front and rear brake kit. The front drums are new, and the front hoses too.

You said on a previous post "Sludge build up is also a sign of lots of short runs never getting the engine hot and all the moisture out".

This afternoon I open the plug pan to remove the engine oil, at first some clear water came, I never saw this before, is this can be because what you said? Considering this car comes from Mississipi, lot of humidity.

I won't remove the rear end, but the axles maybe, or I'll drill a hole and set a plug, like I did on the Grandé.

I guess most of people who run non rebuilt engines use 20W50 mineral oil?

Hey David, I leave in France :)

 

Humm, there should not be that much water in there but it might have sat a long time and heat and cold cycles cause water to condense inside if there is high humidity. Make sure the PCV system is hooked up and working and not clogged. This also gets the moisture out of the engine. I have never used a mineral oil only petroleum based. I always used 10 W 40 Havoline or Ford oil which use to be made by Havoline in my Mach 1. The newer vehicles use a synthetic / petroleum blend and it is 5 W 20 for the Ford engines. Oil is like women lots of them out there to choose from some good some not so good.

I would pull the center section out of the rear. You do not loose any adjustment it all comes out as one unit. There will be metal shavings in the bottom of the housing from gear and axle wear. It only takes a few minutes. You do not unbolt the yoke just around the outer edge.

And yes I knew you were from France since your first post when you bought the car.

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I probably misunderstood you, actually I write and speak better that I understand ( I remember some teachers from Texas, in Aberdeen, Scotland, imagine that, very hard to understand), same with Scottish guys, very funny, but it's another story.

 

Ok so to remove the part you said from the rear end (carrier housing?), I need first to remove the drive shaft, is the hydraulic oil from the C6 will drop down? (anyway I want to change the filter then the oil, and the raer gearbox seal is leaking), but I need the gasket then to reassembly the rear end, and the list of my I need is huge already :( Ok one more gasket will not kill me).

There are lines missing, EGR valve is disconnected.

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Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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Manu,

 

I use 15W40 on this classic engines and I am looking for a relatively high zinc level, that's all. I used 20W50 but it seemed way too thick and doughy like unwarmed honey to quickly reach the special and long oil channels of the cleveland design - especially in the starting phase of the engine. So I came back to 15W40.

 

The right oil for your engine is a question of belief - there are zillions of threads about this in the world wide web - you must find you own strategy. I found out that 15W40 is the optimal viscosity for classic motors between 10W40 and 20W50 - but that is a bit experience and gut instincts togehter as in many other fields of restoring a car - and it's only MY opinion ;-)

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Tim,

 

You 're right, there are a lot of discussions about that. It's like to add additive or not in the gas...

Lot of people around me use 20w50 mineral oil, some even change in winter by a 15w40. I use 15w40 in my Grandé (Shell Hélix HX 3) and the engine is not burning oil, I don't add zinc in the oil. Maybe I sould...

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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How is possible to treat the mecanic like that???!!

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David, this remind me a story from you when you dad did open the 2 covers from a Javelin...

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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Looks like that engine had paraffin base oil and was driven short runs for sure.

I have a F-150 Ford with 5.4 liter engine that has 257,000 miles on it and it is still clean cast iron inside. I drove 50 miles each way to work and I did not change oil by mileage. When it got one quart low I added a quart and when it got a quart low again I changed the oil. I use the Ford oil 5 W 20 like they recommend for that engine and it has given very good service. I drove in to Michigan non stop and back with no issues and will do again this week. I always let the engine warm up before leaving even now. It only takes a couple minutes and is much better for the engine for it to get some heat in the pistons.

I think you might as well pull the engine out and tear it down. The valve stem seals are bad to come apart and with all that slug in the engine the oil pump screen will be clogged. There is a hole in the oil pump screen so when it becomes blocked it pulls up and lets oil into the pump. If there are pieces of the valve stem seals in the oil pan the get sucked into the pump and lock it up and break the pump drive shaft. or actually blow up the oil filter when the pressure will not bypass.

That engine has over 40 years of abuse and needs some TLC.

You should pull the cowl / shock tower braces off when working on the valve covers.

Welcome to the world of owning a Mustang.

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Your pick up has more than 400,000 km, shows that good maintenance can make mecanic to work fine for time.

I don't plan to remove the engine from the bay, I know it'ssomething I should do but this will be done later, when I don't know.

About the stem valves, I'll do with the heads on. The top heads are clean now, I removed all the mess that was there.

 

I found a few bee nest, one was inside the driver door, also inside there was this:

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This piece of ????? was in the door, looks like the car went to swim in the Mississipi.

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Paraffin oil based? What's the viscosity of this one? I noticed that's the engine oil is very low viscosity, sure it's not 20W50.

 

I have some much to do, don't where I need to continue. I need to step away a bit and concentrate on something else for a while I guess.

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Paraffin oil based? What's the viscosity of this one? I noticed that's the engine oil is very low viscosity, sure it's not 20W50.

 

I have some much to do, don't where I need to continue. I need to step away a bit and concentrate on something else for a while I guess.

 

Make yourself a list of things that need to be done and parts you need. Don't jump into a big job at first start with small ones and build your confidence. That is why so many projects get started and never finished they get hung up because there is so much to do.

If you still have the valve covers off the valve stem seals can be seen inside the valve springs. Factory ones are like little black hats or cups around the valve stem going down over the casting of the valve guide. If they are broken or parts missing then you can have an issue with the oil pump unless you replace them and clean out the oil pan. If they are still complete you should be ok for a while. You can replace them without pulling the heads but it is a difficult job and requires a special tool to remove the valve spring keepers. Picture of one of the seals around the valve with spring removed is attached.

The rain finally stopped here some places got 1/2 meter of rain so lots of flooding, dams breaking and roads closed. I live in mountains so I was ok.

David

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I have a huge list of parts I need. I'm lucky I found the tail panel light in France, it's on its way to home.

But that will be after all what I need to do before, on the engine, the transmission, the rear end and so on.

 

I will never give up, but you know sometimes, its like where you leave, the mountains, we can be on the top and sometimes we are down. I will use the air compressor to keep the valve closed to change the valve stem seals, should be the easiest way to do that job.

Was a lot of rain this week on south east of France.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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Yesterday I removed seats, carpets and I was happy to find this:

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Then I can see the damages caused by corrosion:

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I already have the left rear floor pan that was in the trunk of the car as a spare, but I guess it is better a left long pan, problem is I also need the seat platform but can't find it.

Any ideas are welcome.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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I already have the left rear floor pan that was in the trunk of the car as a spare, but I guess it is better a left long pan, problem is I also need the seat platform but can't find it.

M432L and M432R

http://www.cjponyparts.com/seat-platform-coupe-fastback-passenger-side-1971-1973/p/M432R/

 

I have read that they are about 1/2 inch taller than original. As my floors had been completely removed when I purchased the car, I had nothing to compare them to. If you have plenty of headroom to the headliner now, they should work fine. If you are close now, you may need to modify them to be lower.

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Yes I was very happy to find the build sheet, I scan it at the maximum resolution I could (15 mo) then I can read all on this document while zooming.

The floor pan was in place, the rear left was in very bad condition, I finished to remove it, completly rotten, then the seat platform is bad too, then the driver part is not to bad, a few holes in, but could be repair. Don't know what to do as body works is not my party. I will call a professionnal to check what he can do.

But my guess is to replace the pan by a long pan floor, and the seat platform.

It's very strange, left side is damaged, right one is in good condition. Very strange how in a small space so much differences.


I already have the left rear floor pan that was in the trunk of the car as a spare, but I guess it is better a left long pan, problem is I also need the seat platform but can't find it.

M432L and M432R

http://www.cjponyparts.com/seat-platform-coupe-fastback-passenger-side-1971-1973/p/M432R/

 

I have read that they are about 1/2 inch taller than original. As my floors had been completely removed when I purchased the car, I had nothing to compare them to. If you have plenty of headroom to the headliner now, they should work fine. If you are close now, you may need to modify them to be lower.

 

Thanks I have not seen on CJ.

I have no headliner as the car came without, plenty of room :)

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The rear side windows were bad to leak on Mach 1 and sportsroof so probably leaked on one side and not the other. Mine leaked from the first time I washed it and the dealer could never get it to really stop. I put tons or RTV in and finally got it to stop.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some updates:

removing exaust pipes to be able to remove the C6, working under the car...

No comment.

 

(tomorrow exaust should be on the side). I hope. I use, hammer, grinder, hands, arms, I should use dust mask, hope no asbestos underneath of the car.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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  • 3 weeks later...

C6 dropped, I can continue slowly but surely.

I broke an L fitting on the coolong line, the one in the rear of the C6.

But it came easely.

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  • 3 weeks later...

A/C is out, was no gas inside, just a little little bit.

Some body parts are gone to the bodyshop. I receive most of the parts I need (it will never ended), always need some new parts.

The pan floor is on the boat somewhere on the atlantic.

Next step is to remove the engine from the bay.

 

Question about the torque converter:

How to check it if it is in good condition?

 

And now a few pics

I found this ID tag

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The C6

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I found this, looks like a part of the building sheet:

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I'm here now:

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And my dog Oréo send you his best regards :)

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The sheet metal on the front is looking good ::thumb::

 

You build sheet was on the front radiator support?!? That's interesting, not heard about that before...

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Not at all, I found the building sheet on under the carpet on the passenger side, and it is in bad condition but no part is missing.

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So this is really uncommun I guess.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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It could be worse, looks good - you can clean them a bit... Mine was under the drivers seat on the floor...

 

Looks like you are deep into the tear down. Does your dog know how to hand you wrenches?

There was more than one build sheet coming down the line sometimes more than one got inside the car. That pretty much confirms to the worker what goes on the car. They also had like teletype machine that gave them what went on which car. I have seen pictures with them stuck on the left rear quarter panel.

If there were any special instructions that were not normal options it would be typed out in the lower section. One of my build sheets has items that even the window sticker and Marti do not show due to special order. Window sticker just says special order and a price but does not tell you what.

There is still a little piece of masking tape on my hood latch bracket where you found the piece of the build sheet.

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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