Looking for a clutch pedal..

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cazsper

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May 30, 2012
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Location
Sunnyvale, CA
My Car
1968 Coupe: 393w, TKO-600, Maier Racing springs, Global West suspension, Currie 9in with forged axles, 3.50 gears, Trutrac, Baer brakes front/rear
1973 Mach-1: 351c 4V, C-6, 3.73:1 gears and a long "To Do" list..
I would like to convert my '73 to a manual. Is the '71-'73 clutch pedal different than that of a '68? I have one in storage.. Thank you.

Mike

 
Very.

You'll need the complete pedal support with the clutch pedal shaft bushings and return spring as well. It doesn't mount on the same one as the brake like 65-70.

 
Oh.. Ok.. Thank you..

 
Which clutch pedals work, I've found no new ones online? I'm looking for the possibilities

Sent from my LG-H950 using Tapatalk

 
Some things to consider

Manual transmission cars with power steering may have clearance problems for a factory Z bar. Headers will likewise create fitment issues. There are alternatives such as hydraulic clutch slave cylinders and even cable conversions. Which way you decide to proceed will influence the proper part choice.

Cable actuated is probably the easiest conversion, but the long looping cable isn't especially pretty. Feel is more numb than a z bar, but effort is lower as a result of the quadrant's better leverage.

Hydraulic is the most expensive method, tends to have the easiest pedal, and the least "feel"

Bleeding slave cylinders can be a task that is frustrating.

I'm not sure if you have power steering or headers, maybe all this I typed is a waste of time. My understanding is rudimentary. I have manual steering and a z bar that is in need of a rebuild this fall.

 
Some things to consider

Manual transmission cars with power steering may have clearance problems for a factory Z bar. Headers will likewise create fitment issues. There are alternatives such as hydraulic clutch slave cylinders and even cable conversions. Which way you decide to proceed will influence the proper part choice.

Cable actuated is probably the easiest conversion, but the long looping cable isn't especially pretty. Feel is more numb than a z bar, but effort is lower as a result of the quadrant's better leverage.

Hydraulic is the most expensive method, tends to have the easiest pedal, and the least "feel"

Bleeding slave cylinders can be a task that is frustrating.

I'm not sure if you have power steering or headers, maybe all this I typed is a waste of time. My understanding is rudimentary. I have manual steering and a z bar that is in need of a rebuild this fall.
71-73s don't have the hydraulic ram like the 65-70 cars for P/S, so there is no clearance problem with the Z-bar. That said, only certain headers work with the 71-3 Z-bar. Need to know engine to recommend a header.

Used is the only way I know of at the moment. You also want to try to get on from a '73, as the pedal supports and bracketry varied with each year and sometimes even had changes during the model year. AFAIK, the rest of the stuff is repopped now.

 
I weighed a top loader vs a T5

First good luck finding a good toploader under 1K and the zbar and linkage that will go

with it then add in the cost of a shifter.

I'm going the T5 route ...bonusus are get a tranny under $500,

Get the MDL man pedal $175 for a cable action,

No need for a shifter it''s built in,

You get 5 speeds,

Plenty of discussion here on the T5 in the search box

Good Luck

Paul

 
P/S is not a clearance problem in the 71-3 cars, headers or not. The headers available were designed to clear the slightly larger Saginaw box. The hoses go vertical and towards the front of the car, with nothing in the way.

To the OP: your profile says you have a 351C-4V. If you have the 4V heads, then Hooker Comp 6915 headers will clear the Z-bar if you elect to go that way.

Good to know on the MD pedal. Not sure why the cable conversion is so much money - $260 for a cable and a stamped sheetmetal cover? Sheesh

 
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