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I have read a couple of this threads but haven't seen if someone has actually used the replica underlayment that are online which they advertise:

 

"Save time and money with this fantastic reproduction underlayment kit! Drastically reduces road noise and helps insulate your car from the heat and cold. Unlike the original, these resist condensation which causes rust. Features precision die cutting to original patterns for an easy install. You will find that new carpet will fit better with new underlayment installed" cjponyparts.com

 

I want to put something underneath the new carpet that is going to be installed and I want to do something about the future corrosion, noise and the heat from underneath the car.

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I am interested in what replies you get. I am redoing my floors and already bought the carpet underlayment from CJP couple months ago when they were discounted. In addition, I am planing on buying the carpet with mass backing and I am planing on getting some sections of Dynamat or Boom Mat, enough to cover about 1/3 of the floor area.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I covered the floor/firewall/roof with RAAMat (basically, Dynamat without logos everywhere - and cheaper), and used mass-backed cut-pile carpet.

 

The molded mass-backed carpet is somewhat unforgiving if things aren't perfectly lined up. The more layers of whatever you're sticking to the floor will cause some things to fall out of alignment because of thickness. I had cut down my repop seat platforms so they were pretty close to the factory fastback platforms, but the extra size with the RAAMat made it tough for the carpet to settle in properly (it did eventually, of course).

 

I had also bought a set of the underlayment, but I didn't include the floor pieces when I installed the carpet, because things were just getting too thick.

 

My cursory drive the other day revealed to me that the exterior noise was not bad at all... and that was with the windows down and without having insulated the doors or done anything in the trunk.

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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that underlayment is basically asphalt sheets. i bought them for my car. most people use the dynamat. i decided to try and go with something more traditional.

they do reduce noise but nothing like using the fitted sound dead-ner tiles like dynamat.

 

if i remember there were like 8 pieces in the kit, 4 pieces for the floor (2 front, 2 back), 1 piece under the rear seat, 1 piece over the transmission hump.

1 piece was suppose to go behind the rear seat upright however there was no way i could figure out how to make it fit, i put it to the side. the last piece went in the trunk floor. I made my own piece that went behind the rear seat upright, there was also suppose to be a piece that went behind the rear seats but infront of the fuel tank area, it didn't fit right either, when i tried to use it it caused problems with the spare tire... it might of been for the convertible as that area is different then a fastback.

 

 

most of the reproduction carpets have the jute underlayment for road noise reduction. but using the underlayment sheets added another layer of noise suppression.

if you want it like a modern car then you need to coat the floor with dynamat or equivalent

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I used dynamat with great results. I used the roof and door kit along with a couple layers on the floor, with the windows up it is more quiet then a modern car with no road noise.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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thanks for the reply guys i will buy it and tell you how it goes, i drove it for a couple of weeks with just metal and no even carpet so I should definately feel it less noisy hahaha, 2 month and i will upload the pics of the car painted

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Yes it works just fine 😎 I just it on my Mustang 😎😀 And I am so glad to have it. Regards DK73

 

Sendt fra min D2005 med Tapatalk

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73:whistling:

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  • 2 weeks later...

All,

 

Several other solutions, based on your budgets may include,

 

3M™ Sound Deadening Pads 08840, 500 mm x 500 mm, 10 per case

 

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Automotive/Aftermarket/Products/~/3M-Sound-Deadening-Pads-08840-500-mm-x-500-mm-10-per-case?N=4294937035&rt=d

 

This was my first option and I installed on the firewall down to the beginning of the floor pans. Once it has time to settle in, it is very difficult to remove. Once we were getting close to painting the 1973 Coupe, I had a discussion with my body man about the best solution here. His one concern was moisture.

 

The 3m Sound Deadening pads are a great idea until I started to look at the interior outer wheel well housing and quarter panel section. The area between the structural and outside sheet metal. I know that the typical insulation for the Coupes include the interior area around the back seat and the floor pan. I also wanted to insulate the inside of the front doors.

 

My final solution was to use the Lizard Skin Thermal Insulation and Sound Control products.

 

http://www.lizardskin.com/car-ceramic-insulation.html

 

http://www.lizardskin.com/sound-control-insulation.html

 

According to my body man, it was a little more difficult to use than what the You Tube videos showed. His paint suit was partially covered with the materiel and you could see splatter around the car. Once it dried, it was solid and sound proofed. I do plan on installing the under layment kit since the carpet was designed to fit with it. Here are a few pictures.

 

2jenuo4.jpg

okn9ck.jpg

2v1kxw3.jpg

1jrnf6.jpg

 

mustang7173

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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  • 3 weeks later...

I used the Damplifier stuff from Second Skin Audio. Pretty much like Dynamat (a very sticky, rubbery base material topped by a foil-like material), but cheaper for some reason. It's also available in a couple of thicknesses, depending upon how much sound damping and/or insulation you want. Love this stuff. It's a little time consuming putting it in, because it comes in big sheets, and you'll need to cut it out to fit the contours of your floor, firewall, etc., but it's really worth the effort. (Trick to installation was laying it in place, then using the blunt end of the plastic handle of a large screwdriver to press it on, and into any curves or contours of the sheetmetal!)

Totally transformed the driving experience of my car - I really can't say enough good about it.. I had it in my car for about 8 years, right up until I sold it, and I did not see or notice any degradation in the quality.

Ham & Eggs: A day's work for a chicken, a life-altering experience for a pig.

'71 Grande, 351C Ram Air w/ Edelbrock carb and intake, 2 1/2" exhaust w/ DynaMax mufflers, NACA hood, front spoiler, 235/60-15 Radial T/As on 15x8 Vision Legend Five wheels, mostly new interior, several custom touches in and out...

 

 

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Lowe's sells a material made by frost king that is a butyl rubber with a foil backing. It is easily less that 1/4 the cost of the name brand stuff and you can buy it in rolls small enough that there is little waste.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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(Trick to installation was laying it in place, then using the blunt end of the plastic handle of a large screwdriver to press it on, and into any curves or contours of the sheetmetal!)

 

I used a wall paper seam roller for maximum squish into the grooves and corners on mine.

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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