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Full Global West suspension system?


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I am thinking about upgrading my front suspension to all Global West tubular control arms, adjustable struts, eccentric locks, and articulating spring saddles. I plan to use their 1/2" lower small block springs, and generally run a total package system. Do I need their bump steer kit also since the upper CA's have positive 3 caster? Is anybody running this system and care to comment on quality? I also plan on converting rear leaf spring bushings to their Del-A-Lum bushings. I am planning on building this car to a track style performance car. (Driving hard on back-roads) PS. I already have heavy duty sway bars and good shocks. Am I forgetting anything? And please don't recommend coil over systems, I know they are awesome, but they don't fit my budget. Especially the rear kit. I would really like to hear about any experiences using their products. Thanks!!

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I have their upper and lower arms, strut rods, and del-a-lum spring bushings and shackles. I don't have a direct a-b comparison since my car had worn out stock suspension, and it was 2 years before I could drive it with the new stuff.

 

I had to go from a 15x8 wheel to a 15x7 wheel to the clear the front tire at the end of the upper a-arm.

 

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-totalled-s-rebuild-thread?page=16

1973 Mach 1 Q code 351 4V, 9A paint, standard interior, 3.50 rear, C6 trans.

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Yes, global west has you drill new holes. They include a metal template.

 

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-totalled-s-rebuild-thread?page=5

 

The radiator is a "Northern" brand from e-bay. It works but is not exactly a bolt in.

1973 Mach 1 Q code 351 4V, 9A paint, standard interior, 3.50 rear, C6 trans.

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All In for the Global west set is going to be about $1800-$1900. The coil-over kits start at around $2300, and for stock stuff, if you play your cards right you can get everything for around $800. Last year I put in a whole stock set including Leaf springs and shackles and I think I paid around $800 for everything including hardware. My car does ride nice, but my next engine build plan will need better suspension. PS: Actually I forgot to figure in my sway bars, maybe another couple hundred for them.

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Ok, I took the leap, I bought a full Global West front suspension system, and their Del-A-lum bushing kit for rear leaf springs, and then found some roller bearing spring perches on Ebay. I am going to try to do a step by step write up with pics and try to write a performance review when she hits the road!! All said $1990 invested. Right now my car has an all brand new "Stock" front suspension so I can do an apples to apples comparison!!

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  • 4 weeks later...

DSCI0094.thumb.JPG.f5f2a459e8bed98e98b5b785cd76ed7e.JPGOK, as promised, I have a start to my Global west suspension system upgrade. Let me start by saying, First things first, I had my steering box re-geared to 3 turns lock to lock, I live near Cambridge, MN. where Lares Corp. is and just dropped it off, they went through it and re-geared it for $285.


DSCI0091.thumb.JPG.1ebdcb125ba27784b4b569d2b972e949.JPG This is everything I ordered, upper control arms, lower control arms, recommended springs, solid tie rod sleeves, and eccentric lockout kit.


DSCI0093.thumb.JPG.6bc4515d34fdb27c1fcbf23475840efe.JPG NOTE: These are roller bearing spring saddles, Global West does not manufacture these right now, but claim they are going to in the near future. I bought these off Ebay for $200 for the pair, they seem to be high quality and worth the investment.


I forgot to mention the lower control arm struts, my first impression of everything is HEAVY DUTY!!


DSCI0086.thumb.JPG.9b86875a4491db6b1520c907a8c4949b.JPG First step is to mount this template that comes with the upper control arms to move the holes down 1". Using a 3/16" dril bit, drill 2 pilot holes per the template.


DSCI0088.thumb.JPG.6c1b89309bf7d681b04dada10aaaec11.JPGDSCI0087.thumb.JPG.91f01c0a2c49e0eb397e5aa35876a5b8.JPG Next step they say to use a step drill bit to open the holes to 9/16", the only problem with this is that the step drill bit does not go deep enough to drill all the way through the 3 layers at this point, I think I would rather use 3 different drill bits working your way up to 9/16". I had to drill from both sides to make a uniform 9/16" hole, but hey, that's why I am doing a play by play!! I think the 1971-1973 cars are the only mustangs to come from the factory with reinforcements in the shock towers to allow for the big blocks. The template is nice but it is not exact, I did have to clean up a bit with a carbide rotary tool to get the bolts to go in smooth. Just make sure to not get carried away as you want the UCA's to be snug in there place!


DSCI0089.thumb.JPG.c8269e763fcc9841fbe22a83f1738881.JPG This is optional, and also where I stopped for now. I filled in the old holes using my portable MIG welder. I just can't see leaving the old holes in place as I don't want any possible crack points. I have seen cracked shock towers, and I'm sure there are a bunch of different reasons why it happens, but just to play it safe I filled the old holes in and ground them smooth. I blocked the back of the hole with a piece of copper and filled them 100%. I made sure to check for any hole distortion on the new holes and there wasn't any. I will mention, I used wet rags to cool the weld zone when I was done to save as much paint as possible. Now the project will have to wait a few days before I get back to it, but I will post more progress reports as I go. I hope this was informational for anybody looking to make these upgrades!!! Cheers!!

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Looks like a nice setup. I like those roller bearing saddles.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Yes me too! Last year when I was installing the stock saddles I thought to myself "what a janky setup" seems very limiting to the suspension.


OH! I just remembered, I did have to weld little spring stop extensions to the perches because my new springs would not contact the spring toe properly. I added little 1" extensions off the toe stops.

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Appreciate you posting this information! I was just considering ordering the upper arms. My recent acquisition has new stock lower arms, but needs replacement uppers. I didn't realize you had to drill new holes for the mounting of the upper arms.

 

Looking forward to the rest of your report.

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I didn't think you needed to do the "Shelby drop" by drilling and lowering the upper control arms on 71-73 cars. Maybe these arms require it though.

 

After assembling/welding the DIY roller perch kit, I can endorse the outright purchase of the completed units. What a PITA it was. I would have much rather of spent the money and just bought them assembled if I knew what a hassle it would be.

Mike

__________________________________

Black 1985 GT

Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1

Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's

Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI

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I didn't think you needed to do the "Shelby drop" by drilling and lowering the upper control arms on 71-73 cars. Maybe these arms require it though.

 

After assembling/welding the DIY roller perch kit, I can endorse the outright purchase of the completed units. What a PITA it was. I would have much rather of spent the money and just bought them assembled if I knew what a hassle it would be.

 

I hear you on the perch kit. Did the same thing ,feel the same way.

Jay

73 mach1

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DSCI0098.thumb.JPG.fee3ad9605d18fc3df5e4c5f360b5307.JPGDSCI0099.thumb.JPG.c4cbdedcf423596f32e6c879aac480eb.JPGYeah, I saw the do it yourself kits myself and even being a welder/fabricator, I just opted to buy a complete set. On a side note, I am having troubles mounting the UCA's inside the shock tower, there is a small reinforcement tab welded on the back of the UCA arm to bushing area, its keeping the control arm from moving to full down position. Its a very small interference, I can probably grind a little material off and get it to clear, but I am waiting for a response from Global West before proceeding.
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Well, new update: I had to move the mounting holes for the UCA's up 1/2". These control arms are made for 1967-1973 Mustangs, and the extra bracket in our cars is supposedly not always in the same locations, so the 1 3/8" drop may not be correct for all of our cars. Global west told me to weld the holes closed and move the holes up 1/2" from the center of the drop hole, that the UCA's are supposed to sit in the bottom of the UCA relief wells as low as they will go without interference. Sounds like some of us will get lucky with the template position, but some of us won't!!:huh:

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Appreciate you posting this information! I was just considering ordering the upper arms. My recent acquisition has new stock lower arms, but needs replacement uppers. I didn't realize you had to drill new holes for the mounting of the upper arms.

 

Looking forward to the rest of your report.

If you like, the street or track upper arms work perfect with no issues

No drilling required http://www.streetortrack.com/Tubular-Upper-Roller-Control-Arms-pr-24440.html

Pm for more details if you like, I have them installed on 2 cars


Well, new update: I had to move the mounting holes for the UCA's up 1/2". These control arms are made for 1967-1973 Mustangs, and the extra bracket in our cars is supposedly not always in the same locations, so the 1 3/8" drop may not be correct for all of our cars. Global west told me to weld the holes closed and move the holes up 1/2" from the center of the drop hole, that the UCA's are supposed to sit in the bottom of the UCA relief wells as low as they will go without interference. Sounds like some of us will get lucky with the template position, but some of us won't!!:huh:

I had a feeling looking at your pics that the lower holes weren't going to work properly with out further modification. I wonder why they spec a 1-3/8" drop vs the 1" ? Possibly the angle of the ball joint on the arm ? Well after removing a 1/2" your gonna be more in spec to the 1"

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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Omie01,

 

I with MeZapU on the Shelby drop. I thought Ford had built that in when they designed the 71- 73 Mustangs? Anyway, cannot wait to hear what the results are once your mustang is road worthy again.

 

mustang7173

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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I did move them up the 1/2" last night and now everything is working fine!! Pics to come soon, I wanna get the springs and such in before posting all the pics so I can complete the saga!! Thanks for your interest!!:D

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Ok, after getting the UCA holes where they needed to be, the next step was lower control arms, the were pretty straight forward. You do install them with the eccentric bolts first, after the car gets aligned, you slip out the eccentric bolts, (if you opted for alignment locks) and install alignment locks. I just greased the ends and put them in the same location the old LCA's were in.


Next were the LCA struts, again pretty straight forward. A few things to remember: The 71-73 mustang have a left and right side, on the clevis side the radius on the bracket goes down, (it only fit one way). On my car the little centering ring was almost a press fit, so I tapped mine it with a soft blow hammer and just ran the threaded rod through. Note: The nut supplied with these is a 38mm and has to be torqued to 120 ft lbs. Be ready to spend $20 on a socket you will never need again in your life!! The other side attaches to the LCA, these bolts are a snug fit!! Do not fully tighten the strut to LCA bolts yet, one of the holes on the strut is an oval to assist with alignment movement, One down side: you cannot drive the car until the alignment has been done, so be ready to trailer it to an alignment shop when everything is done!!


At this point I attached the front sway bar, and installed the spindle. The sway bar helps hold the LCA up while trying to get spindle to attach to UCA. There is a small spacer that goes on top of the lower portion of your spindle for the LCA connection to take up some room for the castle nut to locate properly, don't forget it!!


Next was the UCA and coil springs. I made an aluminum plate mod for my spring compressor so I could just pull the springs up enough to install the UCA's while the spring was compressed up into the shock tower, At this point I torqued the UCA's to 80ft. lbs. Once the UCA was high enough to get the spindle attached I let the springs down making sure the spring toes were against the stops. Remember if you are using stock spring perches the spring toes have to be to the outside, Polyurethane or bearing saddles, toe to the inside according to the instructions. I then torqued upper and lower spindle nut to 65 ft. lbs. And installed coil spring covers.


DSCI0116.thumb.JPG.bde4f9c0cda9a14ca67f768e51102e7b.JPGThen finished up with rotor stone guards and rotors!

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OK, One more thing I just noticed this morning while I was installing the shocks. I noticed that the roller spring perch was just touching the inside tube of the UCA's. I did some research on this and there is a different company that warns about this if your using aftermarket spring perches, they say to grind an eighth inch off of the inside (toe side) of the perch to make sure the spring saddle does not interfere with the UCA tube. So anybody doing this install make sure the spring saddle articulates completely through its range of motion without hitting the UCA tubes. I wish Global west would say something about this in their literature. But at least now we have the info here!! Hope this helps!!

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