Suspension is the next step

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Wyostang

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1972 notchback 351c 2v
Ok so we have been making some good progress with our 72 coupe restoration. I have posted in more detail here http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-mustang-transformation

But! Now I want to know what the best approach to replacing our suspension is, it seems relatively solid but I think there is a need to look at the front left system the car sits just slightly cockeyed. If I am going to do that I want to do whatever else is likley lurking as the next issue! What are some common issues? What is the best approach, repair or replace? I am talking the over all suspension system in general. Love this site and proud to be a member!

Wyostang

 
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I am a believer of doing things right. Over 40 years a lot can happen to suspension components. When I got my car the PO did everything he could to TRY to fix the suspension EXCEPT fix the suspension. Coil spring wedges, air shocks, spring helpers, etc. With all the Mustang parts suppliers out there and the price of new parts, there is no reason not to just put in all new parts. I'm very happy I did as it fixed everything, and surprisingly it did not take long, did not break the bank, and was fairly quick and easy. If your after a good ride quality and no noise stick with rubber components. If your looking for performance stuff that is where things get a little tricky. I have been planning a performance upgrade suspension, and there is a lot of info flying around out there without anybody saying for sure what works best. I am thinking a full global west system without going coil-over. Good luck, and have fun!!

 
Two upgrades to consider are heim jointed strut bars (which I did) and roller perches for the front springs (which I will do).

If you haven't done subframe connectors look into it. I always recommend this for convertibles, coupes and fastbacks are not a prone to the body flex.

If you are doing other performance upgrades some 'Shelby style' traction bars are defiantly worth the money.

 
The sagging left front is likely due to 40+ year old springs. However, thoroughly inspect all 4 corners for signs of damage or rust to both the suspension components and mounting points. Problems in the rear can appear to be in the front, because of the heavier weight on the front. All new springs and bushings will solve your problem as long as nothing is damaged or rusted out.

The decision of whether to replace control arms and strut arms depends on both budget and your intended use. For normal everyday driving the stock components are fine. Replacement control arms can run from stock style to tubular to coil-over. You can use stock-style rubber bushings or a couple of different grades of stiffness urethane bushings. Rubber gives a better ride, urethane more precise, but a harsher ride. The roller spring perches are also a nice upgrade, but have a little harsher ride. If you stick with the stock strut arms use only rubber bushings in them. There have been a lot of strut rod failures, at the threaded area, due to the stiffness of urethane bushings causing the strut arms to flex and fail in the threads. For competition style components use the heim joint strut arms that will e mentioned.

 
I'd first replace every piece of rubber in the front and rear suspension https://www.eatondetroitspring.com and Shocks http://www.kyboutlet.com/kyb-gas-a-just-standard-kit-1972-ford-mustang.html. If you want improved handling consider installing a matched set of front and rear anti-sway bars. http://www.addco.net/aftermarket/catalog/ford/

I've owned vets and sports roofs. Both will benefit greatly from the addition of weld in sub-frame connectors.

Good luck with the upgrades. Chuck
Click to expand...
And that subframe connector advice applies to the hardtop as well I would guess.

 
With the amount of work you've put in this far there's no reason to half step with the front end. Good responsive steering is kina helpful. If the control arms are in good shape then everything else can be replaced with new fairly reasonably. I replaced all ball joints, shocks. bushings and the coil springs. I never did like the way the front end of the 71-73's always set higher than the rear so I went with the one inch lower coils. Can't remember if I got them through CJ Pony or Mustangs Unlimited but I do like the way she sits now. Oh yeah.. Disc Brakes are a must. Mine came with manual drums all around so changing to Wilwood power disc was pricey but I think well worth it.

2015-04-01 Diac Brake.JPG

 
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Wyostang,

One of the best thing about this forum are Members who modify their Mustangs with performance parts, drive them, and respond back on how they perform. I would like to recommend, along with the responses from the forum members, are two books that may help you decide on how to make a good decision on how to make your mustang handle. One of the best books that I have had for many years is,

Mustang Performance and Handling Guide, 1964-1985 Paperback – September, 1985

by Pete Sessler (Author)

http://www.amazon.com/Mustang-Performance-Handling-Guide-1964-1985/dp/0879381973/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1446467730&sr=1-1&keywords=mustang+performance+and+handling+guide

The next book would be

How to Make Your Car Handle Paperback – January 1, 1987

by Fred Puhn (Author)

http://www.amazon.com/How-Make-Your-Car-Handle/dp/0912656468

The Book states that one should use the same OEM spring rates for the front/rear and install performance front and rear sway bars.

As stated above, Eaton Detroit Springs has a lot good information about the springs for the 1971-1973 Mustangs.

Good Luck! Keep us posted.

mustang7173

 
Wyostang,

One of the best thing about this forum are Members who modify their Mustangs with performance parts, drive them, and respond back on how they perform. I would like to recommend, along with the responses from the forum members, are two books that may help you decide on how to make a good decision on how to make your mustang handle. One of the best books that I have had for many years is,

Mustang Performance and Handling Guide, 1964-1985 Paperback – September, 1985

by Pete Sessler (Author)

http://www.amazon.com/Mustang-Performance-Handling-Guide-1964-1985/dp/0879381973/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1446467730&sr=1-1&keywords=mustang+performance+and+handling+guide

The next book would be

How to Make Your Car Handle Paperback – January 1, 1987

by Fred Puhn (Author)

http://www.amazon.com/How-Make-Your-Car-Handle/dp/0912656468

The Book states that one should use the same OEM spring rates for the front/rear and install performance front and rear sway bars.

As stated above, Eaton Detroit Springs has a lot good information about the springs for the 1971-1973 Mustangs.

Good Luck! Keep us posted.

mustang7173
Click to expand...
Good info. This supports an earlier post by me 10/06/15, Correct coil springs for the 71/73 where I comment that a front end kit I purchased, did not have the correct springs included. I checked and re-installed my original springs after I got the correct spring information from Eaton Detroit Springs. Basically I did just what the book you refer to said to do with regard to springs. I went with new upper and lower control arms, rubber bushings, KYB gas-adjust shocks and a matched set of Addco anti-sway bars, 1 1/8th front & 7/8" rear. HUGE difference.

 
Stanglover,

Great! Good to hear your setup meets what you were looking for!

mustang7173 :bravo:
Click to expand...
Thanks mustang7173. Yes I'm happy with the way in eventually turned out on the front end. The car goes around curves like it's on rails now, just don't want to push it too far!! Still got the back spring bushings to do, but I also want to do a rear end strip, clean and repaint job. May go with rear discs, but not decided yet.

Stanglover.

 
Hello Stanglover,

I researched the rear disc brakes solution and just having to plumb, change to new master cylinder and god knows what else. So for simplicity sake and just bolts right in, I went with the 1973 Ford Mustang Rear Drum Brake - Legend Series.

“ Our rear drum upgrade kit utilizes a large 11” drum, all new components and 1” wheel cylinders giving disc brake feel without the expense”.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/1973-ford-mustang-rear-drum-brake-legend-series?filter_name=

Here is another available option to install rear disc brake-

http://www.mpbrakes.com/1973-ford-mustang-rear-disc-brake-conversion-kit-legend-series?filter_name=

mustang7173 :bravo:

Stanglover,

Great! Good to hear your setup meets what you were looking for!

mustang7173 :bravo:
Click to expand...
Thanks mustang7173. Yes I'm happy with the way in eventually turned out on the front end. The car goes around curves like it's on rails now, just don't want to push it too far!! Still got the back spring bushings to do, but I also want to do a rear end strip, clean and repaint job. May go with rear discs, but not decided yet.

Stanglover.
Click to expand...
 
Hello Stanglover,

I researched the rear disc brakes solution and just having to plumb, change to new master cylinder and god knows what else. So for simplicity sake and just bolts right in, I went with the 1973 Ford Mustang Rear Drum Brake - Legend Series.

“ Our rear drum upgrade kit utilizes a large 11” drum, all new components and 1” wheel cylinders giving disc brake feel without the expense”.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/1973-ford-mustang-rear-drum-brake-legend-series?filter_name=

Here is another available option to install rear disc brake-

http://www.mpbrakes.com/1973-ford-mustang-rear-disc-brake-conversion-kit-legend-series?filter_name=

mustang7173 :bravo:

Hello to you to mustang7173. Don't want to get too far of topic, but very good info on the rear brakes. I'll certainly look into that as another option as cost is an issue these days on a fixed income!! I have to change the master cylinder anyway as I'm adding the booster.

Stanglover.

Stanglover,

Great! Good to hear your setup meets what you were looking for!

mustang7173 :bravo:
Click to expand...
Thanks mustang7173. Yes I'm happy with the way in eventually turned out on the front end. The car goes around curves like it's on rails now, just don't want to push it too far!! Still got the back spring bushings to do, but I also want to do a rear end strip, clean and repaint job. May go with rear discs, but not decided yet.

Stanglover.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 

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