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72 Convertible - Finishing the restoration


Thin Lizzy
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Re the lacquer, is clear coat water based and Lacquer oil based then? I guess one is more environmentally friendly than the other.

 

Beats me. Scott or Greg could probably answer that better than I could. I just remember lacquer being more prevalent in the past for high-end paint-jobs, but these days, it's less widely used.

 

As to what goes over the top of water colors? I'm not sure. I don't even know if there are any water-based clear coats, either. The color coat, sure... but the clear top coat being water-based? Sounds weird to me. But again, I'm not a professional painter by any means. If they have water-based products that work as well as the good ol' urethane stuff - Bonus! :D

Eric

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I'll ask the guy doing the paintwork and find out.

 

Looking great Mark! I hope the front bumper gets sorted out.

 

Thanks Don. I've got a spare chrome bumper, so if we can't get the Urethane bumper to fit properly, I'll put the other one on.

Mark

 

 

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Here are a few more pics from the body shop. All the True blue paint is on. New argent decals, 3 coats of lacquer over it, sorted the rear bumper, fitted and sprayed the correct sports mirrors and new Mach 1 grille.

 

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It seems my Ford NOS Urethane bumper isn't fitting well, it's too big! Not sprayed up yet. No wonder it hasn't been used for the last 43 years.

 

2016_zps0q1sjjrl.jpg

 

The car looks great nice job!

however you should have fit the bumper before you painted

I spent about 6 Saturdays getting my aprons, hood, fenders, valance, trims and grill to fit

this was by far the hardest part of my car to get right

I had to re-fit the front aprons and radiator support to get it to work correct

I measure every thing before i started however the bumper original probably never fit very well

 

Now that you have painted i would try pulling the bolts out of the light boxes so they don't hold the fender from moving

pull the front 4 or 5 top fender bolts

pull the bolts from the fender braces by the marker light

 

Make sure your bumper front support arm connection can shift right and left

also set the bumper height so it lines up correct when the bolts are tight

 

The trick now is to pull the top of the fenders out and bolt them

then pull the marker braces around to get the fenders to cup out and fit the bumper

 

The bumper moves in-out, up-down, L/R which will need to be adjusted as you get you fender in the right spot

 

you can open up some of these holes with a file

 

Good luck

 

It will fit with a lot of TLC

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Hi Mark,

 

Yeah, touch base with your painter to clarify what brand of paint was used, and what type of paint.

 

You sound like you're a bit confused about types of paint from what you have said so far. Acrylic lacquer is a single pack paint. If your painter used that type of paint, he would have sprayed the lacquer metallic colour on first, and the finished off with acrylic lacquer clear top coats.

 

On the other hand, most spray shops today, use 2 pack paints. They involve using a solvent based, single pack metallic base coat, and then finishing off with 2 pack urethane clear top coats. The only variation to that would be the increased use of using a water based metallic base coat instead of a solvent based metallic base coat. In each case, you still end up using 2 pack urethane clear coats for finishing off.

 

Also, water based clears have not come onto the scene yet. The paint companies are still trying to develop suitable products for the market.

 

Greg.:)

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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Thanks for the info M Beauchamp, I'll pass that on to the bodyshop.

 

Hi Austin, yes, not much experience with modern paint, you know more than me. I remember my Lotus was resprayed in 2 pack a few year back, but that's about it. With the Mustang, the body shop has just bought off the shelf Ford American True Blue metallic paint, so I guess that's 2 pack. I assume he's used urethane clear coat but I'll check. Thank you for the information.

Mark

 

 

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Acrylic lacquer is a single pack paint. If your painter used that type of paint, he would have sprayed the lacquer metallic colour on first, and the finished off with acrylic lacquer clear top coats.

 

On the other hand, most spray shops today, use 2 pack paints. They involve using a solvent based, single pack metallic base coat, and then finishing off with 2 pack urethane clear top coats. The only variation to that would be the increased use of using a water based metallic base coat instead of a solvent based metallic base coat. In each case, you still end up using 2 pack urethane clear coats for finishing off.

 

Also, water based clears have not come onto the scene yet. The paint companies are still trying to develop suitable products for the market.

 

Thanks for clearing that up, Greg. ::thumb::

 

I remember lacquer being used for high-end and 'candy' paint jobs on show cars back in the '60s & '70s, then Imron was the high-end thing in the '80s & early '90s, with base coat/clear coat urethane being the big thing in the late '90s/early 2000s... and finally, water-based color coat/urethane clear coat being pretty much the standard these days.

 

I've only done some custom airbrushing on small panels with urethane colors and shot urethane clear (my favorite is DuPont Centauri clear over House of Kolors airbrush colors). I tried working with AutoAir colors (water-based), but couldn't make friends with 'em, so I stick with HOK.

 

But, enough about that.

 

 

Mark! Where are the new pics? :D :P

Eric

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Thanks for the info M Beauchamp, I'll pass that on to the bodyshop.

 

Hi Austin, yes, not much experience with modern paint, you know more than me. I remember my Lotus was resprayed in 2 pack a few year back, but that's about it. With the Mustang, the body shop has just bought off the shelf Ford American True Blue metallic paint, so I guess that's 2 pack. I assume he's used urethane clear coat but I'll check. Thank you for the information.

 

Thanks Mark,

 

Yes, do let us know what brand and what type of paint was used. It will be interesting.

 

 

Hi Eric,

 

Thanks for the feedback. Interesting. Yes, first it was air dry enamel, then Duco Nitro Lacquer, then Acrylic Lacquer was King from the early Sixties and up to around the late Seventies, when the first 2 pack paints started to be used and come on the scene.

 

The do gooders and greenies lobbied to introduce water based auto paints to phase out solvent based coatings, beginning back in the 2000 decade, but the whole thing has stalled in a manner of speaking, because the paint companies have not been able to produce a top quality, durable working clear coat to date. So we have this half baked situation today where refinish shops use water base base coats and the finish off with 2 pack clears. It's a joke really. The whole thing is self defeating to a large extent.Also, water based base coats have proven to be less durable than solvent based base coats in certain regards. They are harder to apply, and are not as user friendly as the solvent base coats are.

 

Ceramic clear coats are coming on the scene now, and they are a solvent based clear with very hard durable properties. Ahh, the changes, the changes!:whistling::whistling::whistling:

 

Greg.:)

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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The only thing I know about lacquers is what I've learnt in the furniture industry (my job). We use acid catalyst lacquer and Polyurethane lacquer on our furniture. We call them lacquers over here, sounds like it's different where you come from.

Mark

 

 

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The only thing I know about lacquers is what I've learnt in the furniture industry (my job). We use acid catalyst lacquer and Polyurethane lacquer on our furniture. We call them lacquers over here, sounds like it's different where you come from.

 

OK Mark, understood,

 

The paint types and brands for auto paints remain the same around the world, but yes, in the furniture trade, their types of paints get called slightly different names from the auto paints. It's always been the same story going back over the decades and around the world.

 

Gets confusing a little doesn't it.:chin::chin::chin::chin::P

 

Thanks mate,

 

Greg.:)

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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I was sent another pic of my car today. I've read slightly mixed reviews on the paint shop I'm using. I've had a full respray, removing rust and fitting new parts, for £3000 which is very cheap in the UK, would normal cost £10,000 (which is was what I paid for my car!).

 

So what do you think of the paint finish?

 

2015111956yu_zpsm6rzxigh.jpg

Mark

 

 

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Really is hard to tell from the photos. Not sure if they are not using a very good camera and the lighting is not good for taking photos.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Has it been color sanded yet? It appears to have a good shine to it.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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It is looking great since you got all the issues fixed. Is the conversion to dollars around 0.66 so it cost $1,800 - $1,900 for the work?

That would be a great price with all the work you had to do if in the U.S..

If you want a shock get a price to do complete tear down and rotisserie restore to original. It cost more than the car will sell for.

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Hi Mark,

 

Congrats on getting the car back. I must say it's looking very sharp all over. You must be pleased and proud of her now.::thumb::

 

You can never really tell from photos, and i would have to be there in person to look at the car close up to pass a proper opinion on the paint job and finish as such, but your pics give me the impression that a good job was done and you got value for money so to speak.

 

Forgive me for being a little picky, but i noticed from your photos that the alignment of the driver's door seems to be out a little. The door appears to have dropped a little. Also, who ever applied your side stripes did not get the alignment good and straight around the start of the quarter panel where it comes off the door. I think that spoils things just a touch. I think in both cases, you would be well within your rights to ask for those issues to be rectified at the shops expense.

 

Any way, great job and congratulations again Mark!

 

Greg.:)

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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Hi Greg,

Thanks for your comments. Don't worry, I'm picky too. The door was like that before, but yes I need to get it looked at. And yes, you're right, the stripe is on the rear quarter is on the wonk. I noticed that when I got the car back. I did tell him to use a laser line to position the stripes, but he obviously didn't. The problem is he's put 3 coats of clear lacquer over the strip, so it will be a problem to change it. And it's a 3 hour drive back to the spray shop in horrible congested UK traffic, which I can do with out. I'll mention it to him and see what he says.

Mark

 

 

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Hi Greg,

Thanks for your comments. Don't worry, I'm picky too. The door was like that before, but yes I need to get it looked at. And yes, you're right, the stripe is on the rear quarter is on the wonk. I noticed that when I got the car back. I did tell him to use a laser line to position the stripes, but he obviously didn't. The problem is he's put 3 coats of clear lacquer over the strip, so it will be a problem to change it. And it's a 3 hour drive back to the spray shop in horrible congested UK traffic, which I can do with out. I'll mention it to him and see what he says.

 

Yes, putting clear over the stripes will present major problems for any rectification work undertaken. It might pay to just leave things as they are, because removing the stripe, laying down a new one and refinishing again, will mean having to respray the entire quarter panel again. Not good i guess, and he won't be happy or want to carry out the rectification needed. The door is certainly something that should be looked at and fixed i would think, but there again, you'll have trouble with the stripe being out of alignment once the door is raised. That would mean of course, that the stripe would have to be removed, and replaced, and the whole door resprayed over again.:@:@:@

 

Best of luck with it all,

 

Greg.:)

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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Thanks for your advice Greg. So you think the driver's door has dropped then? The strip is annoying but I'll put up with it, the car's no garage queen and it's going to get used. I could contact the spray shop about it , but I'd rather not having a load of bad feeling about it as I want to enjoy the car.

 

Took some more pics of it, as it stopped raining over here for a whole morning, wow!!

 

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Mustang%202_zpsojgdpt8a.jpg

 

Mustang%203_zpscqc0xh8l.jpg

 

Mustang%201_zpsjq3ishny.jpg

Mark

 

 

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Hi Mark,

 

(Thanks for your advice Greg. So you think the driver's door has dropped then?)

 

Yeah, i would think there's something going on with the hinges or hinge adjustment there, but the alignment of the back of the door to the quarter panel looks pretty good in your pics though. I would also look at the positioning and adjustment of the front fender/guard where it meets the front door as well.

 

In any case, you've said above that you'll probably end up living with the door and stripe issues, and fair enough too. I fully understand your thinking on that subject.The Mustang is looking very sharp overall, so no real need to worry.

 

One other thing that caught my eye - I noticed your trunk/boot alignment out a little to the rear quarters. That can be rectified with my trunk alignment method i came up with last year or so. I wrote an article on it and posted it up for the Forum. Here's a link to it, and i hope it's of help to you.

 

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-austin-vert-s-trunk-alighnment-trick

 

Thanks Mark,

 

Greg.:)

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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Thanks for the link and write up of on the trunk alignment. Sounds like that should sort the problem. When I bought the car, I thought the rear wing had been lifted from a bump at some point but the body shop said it hadn't, just the trunk had swisted. Glad it seems a common problem and it can be sorted :).

Mark

 

 

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