RESTO TIPS WITH Q-ROLLING PRIMER

Hey guys so I finished up the braces and sound deadner on the interior roof panel, Ready to prime the exterior so heres a quick resto tip on how I've been applying my primers that ether get sanded or are the base for my filler work (epoxy)

On a high quality restoration I prefer to strip to bare metal (media blast or 80 grit on the oscillating sander) I apply epoxy primer (spi exactly as per instructions) then apply my filler work on top of the epoxy.

No need to spray since its not a finish coat. Some of the benefits are NO OVER SPRAY, NO CHANCE OF CONTAMINATION from your air source if not filtered 100% and less product used. I've been rolling primers and rust bullet for a long time with no issues & as a matter of fact I happened to notice a lot of the European shops have been doing the same. So heres some pictures of the roof ready to go & the products I'm using. The epoxy must be applied as per THE INSTRUCTIONS following the guidelines for temperature mixing and cleaning the bare metal. Notice the close up of the roof showing the "scratch pattern" of the 80 grit. Theres also a picture of a golf kart that I did the body work on and applied 2 coats of regular 2k primer notice how smooth the result is. Hope this helps anyone who maybe was thinking about doing some body work but scared of the having to spray primer aspect.

Wow that is so awesome information about this one ::thumb:: Regards Lars DK73

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The idea of reinforcing the roof is a GREAT idea, well done, The rolling on primer is also a great idea. Thanks for posting. Chuck

And I just finished spraying my epoxy about a month ago...

Great idea

especially with a High build fill primer your gonna scratch mostly off

This is cool. I'll try this on my next project. Thx for the info Q!!!

Good work Scott,

Interesting approach on the primer app.

Thanks for sharing.::thumb::

Greg.

looks good, I cant wait to see the finished product.

Those foamy brushes also work. For larger surfaces the rollers are better. What type of rollers did you use?

1971 M-code Mach 1

Q,

Another great how to do it thread. It is sure not a simple task after watching my friend, who is a professional Auto body man with 35 years under his belt, work his magic last weekend on painting my 1973 Coupe.

I remember working the same 1973 Mustang some 10 plus years ago, the Green color in my avitar picture. I remember reading a lot of material to make sure that I was attempting to do it Right.

Q, this thread sure does help with how to prepare the surface of the metal and what are good products to use. :bravo:

My second time in redoing my 1973 coupe, due to re-occurring rust issues, I decided to let him tackle the body work this time.

All,

Here is Q's thread on the his roof re-enforcement process.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-reinforcing-the-roof-pics

mustang7173 :thankyouyellow:

Those foamy brushes also work. For larger surfaces the rollers are better. What type of rollers did you use?

1971 M-code Mach 1

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Look in the pictures I use 2 types a little word about rolling the epoxy you really have to go very slow and to be frank it takes a developed feel since this is only a base for for my filler any screw ups you just sand nib them out with some 180 before applying the filler I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND USING THE ROLLERS FOR YOUR LAST FINISH COAT OF EPOXY only a single base coat for filler work. On 2k primer doesn't matter almost all of it gets sanded off.


Thanks all for the kind words ::thumb::

I'm going to skim coat the entire roof with a coat of rage extreme body filler thinned a bit with plastic honey There won't be much left in the way of filler once sanded but this technique works extremely well for getting a perfectly straight panel.

This couldn't have come at a better time. Thanks (as always), Q!

-Kurt

This couldn't have come at a better time. Thanks (as always), Q!

-Kurt

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Your welcome

Q:

Let me understand what you are saying. After stripping everything down to bare metal, use a roller to apply one or two coats of epoxy primer. Then apply high build primer and sand to get everything smooth and flat. From there, use spray paint to finish everything off. Is that correct?

I've used rollers for epoxy on jet ski frames and paint brushes for shelving and work benches. Personally, I found that one cannot apply a full coat of epoxy primer without gaps (even with two coats), but that could be because I am inexperienced with this technique. The paint brush worked a bit better, but doesn't appear to be efficient for large sheet metal parts.

Q:

Let me understand what you are saying. After stripping everything down to bare metal, use a roller to apply one or two coats of epoxy primer. Then apply high build primer and sand to get everything smooth and flat. From there, use spray paint to finish everything off. Is that correct?

I've used rollers for epoxy on jet ski frames and paint brushes for shelving and work benches. Personally, I found that one cannot apply a full coat of epoxy primer without gaps (even with two coats), but that could be because I am inexperienced with this technique. The paint brush worked a bit better, but doesn't appear to be efficient for large sheet metal parts.

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Almost,

step 1--Strip to bare metal (you can not use spi epoxy on top of anything that contains acid I.E. self etching primers metal conditioners rust converters)

Step 2--sand metal with 80 girt with orbital sander

Step 3 clean metal with spi waterborne wax & grease remover followed by a second cleaning with spi solvent based wax & grease remover allowing 1 hour dry time before coating

Step 4--apply epoxy

Step 5--apply BODY FILLER ON TOP OF EPOXY 24-48 hours after application but WITHIN 7 DAYS (AGAIN SPI others may have a different "window of time" for application of fillers)

Step 6--Do body work filler work

Step 7--After filler work is complete apply epoxy again THIS TIME SPRAYING

Step 8--Apply regular or 2k primers for blocking can be rolled

Step 9--you can seal with epoxy again SPRAYED then paint or skip this step and just paint.