rear quarter skins

I know this has been asked before but I couldn't find the post. Are there any rear quarter skins that are better than others? Any brands to avoid? Is Dynacorn worth the extra money? Thanks!

NOT sure but I would go with the full rear quarters instead of the skins if you can afford them. your body man will thank you!

What he said. ^^^

My paint & body guy said I'd done an "OK" job with mine, but also said I should've just brought the panels to him instead. Considering how much sheet metal replacement I'd done and still had to do, I figured I could do it on my own and save the body guy some work (and me some money in the process). That turned out to be a mixed bag: I saved on the initial cost of having him rebuild pretty much the whole rear end of the car, but I'm sure the added labor of having to fix my mistakes came close to making up for it.

The panels I got from Ohio Mustang Supply were Dynacorn (I believe), and even they required some adjustment to fit properly in the rear valance area, as well as the trailing edge of the door opening. I had to break the spot welds on the lower valance area to align it correctly and re-weld back in-place, as well as the curvature of the body wasn't even close at the door opening - I had to make relief cuts, shape the panel to the door opening as I fastened it in-place, and fill the relief cuts as I welded the panel into place.

I'd welded mine on initially, but I was not happy with the long top seam and door opening area on the passenger side, so I pulled it off, ordered a new one, and 'glued it on' with 3M Panel Adhesive - I should've done that from the start on both sides - or at least the long top seam, anyway. Do as much research as you can and follow instructions/advice to the letter - I was a little impatient with the welding, which caused my long top seams to pucker and I struggled to get them as close to 'good' as possible... and never made it. That's why the body guy said to just bring the panels to him next time (I'm hoping there won't be a next time... and even if so, I'll go full quarters).

You can see the poor transition of the long top seam beginning, and it got worse as I filled in the spaces between the welds you see here.



The body guy worked some minor miracles, although I'm pretty sure he didn't hammer the metal back into shape as much as opened a new can of filler.



Like I said, I got it pretty close but it took some extra body work that the body guy might not have had to do had he installed them himself. As important as it is to get that seam perfect (you'll see everything if it's not), I would opt for full quarters were I to do it again (they weren't available when I did mine).

Hope this helps.