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Has anyone heard of the FiTech PAC EFI unit?


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I searched the forum and can't find anyone writing about the PAC FiTech EFI unit.

http://paceperformance.com/i-22321653-pac-30002-600-hp-efi-master-package-with-fuel-pump.html

 

It is said to be a self-contained and self-learning TBI. The ECU is built-in the throttle body so you need very few wires to install this thing. Overall seems very easy to install. Searching in the internet I read excellent reviews. The only negatives are questions in regards to reliability due to the ECU being exposed to the engine heat, specially when the car is turned off. In this case maybe a plastic spacer should help. Only time will tell on that one. The ECU unit could also be programmed to work with the timing.

 

I am not sold into the idea of running EFI, but after seeing this system at a decent price, a part of me is feeling more compelled. Not right now, but perhaps in a near future. It just sounds like a cool mod that gives you a lot of control of timing and A/F. I didn't find dyno information.

 

Here is a thread that shows the installation in a Corvette:

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3670852-fitech-go-efi-review.html#post1589890693

 

Edit: for whatever is worth I found one Dyno comparison and 441 LS7. The HP and Torque are very close except in the mid range where the EFI unit was a tad ahead. The low end appears to be a tad better too, which make sense due to what I expect to give better fuel atomization at the low end.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774336&highlight=Fitech%20(http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774336&highlight=Fitech)

 

I just had my 351C refreshed (ok rebuilt). I replaced the old flat tappet cam and valve train with Comp Cam roller cam and valve train. Replaced the intake with Edelbrock Performer manifold. On top went with FiTech EFI4 and rather than run EF Pump from tank I opted for FiTechs Fuel Control Center. All went well except the way the FCC was mounted. The unit was mounted on the left fender well where the windshield washer res was.....problem...it was mounted on an angle...FCC per INSTRUCTIONS needs to be mounted VERTICAL or very near vertical....why....it won't allow proper venting to tank return since it operates with an internal float system. FIX: Installed spacers to position tank properly. Engine still in break in but runs great. Best tip: Read and Follow Instructions.....this is not a carb.....good luck

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I searched the forum and can't find anyone writing about the PAC FiTech EFI unit.

http://paceperformance.com/i-22321653-pac-30002-600-hp-efi-master-package-with-fuel-pump.html

 

It is said to be a self-contained and self-learning TBI. The ECU is built-in the throttle body so you need very few wires to install this thing. Overall seems very easy to install. Searching in the internet I read excellent reviews. The only negatives are questions in regards to reliability due to the ECU being exposed to the engine heat, specially when the car is turned off. In this case maybe a plastic spacer should help. Only time will tell on that one. The ECU unit could also be programmed to work with the timing.

 

I am not sold into the idea of running EFI, but after seeing this system at a decent price, a part of me is feeling more compelled. Not right now, but perhaps in a near future. It just sounds like a cool mod that gives you a lot of control of timing and A/F. I didn't find dyno information.

 

Here is a thread that shows the installation in a Corvette:

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3670852-fitech-go-efi-review.html#post1589890693

 

Edit: for whatever is worth I found one Dyno comparison and 441 LS7. The HP and Torque are very close except in the mid range where the EFI unit was a tad ahead. The low end appears to be a tad better too, which make sense due to what I expect to give better fuel atomization at the low end.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774336&highlight=Fitech%20(http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774336&highlight=Fitech)

 

I just had my 351C refreshed (ok rebuilt). I replaced the old flat tappet cam and valve train with Comp Cam roller cam and valve train. Replaced the intake with Edelbrock Performer manifold. On top went with FiTech EFI4 and rather than run EF Pump from tank I opted for FiTechs Fuel Control Center. All went well except the way the FCC was mounted. The unit was mounted on the left fender well where the windshield washer res was.....problem...it was mounted on an angle...FCC per INSTRUCTIONS needs to be mounted VERTICAL or very near vertical....why....it won't allow proper venting to tank return since it operates with an internal float system. FIX: Installed spacers to position tank properly. Engine still in break in but runs great. Best tip: Read and Follow Instructions.....this is not a carb.....good luck

 

Did you use comp cams hydraulic roller lifters for your build?? if you did, make sure to keep an eye on them and listen for any tapping. I had 3 separate COMP lifters collapse on me this summer. I just pulled ALL of them and sent the whole kit back to comp. Waiting to hear back what they have to say about it. Been a lot of bad press going around the net about their hydraulic roller lifters!!! Good Luck. I have a set of Lunati or Isky lined up for mine.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.
https://youtu.be/SoW1fhaFPzY  Burn Out Video. 

 

044.jpg

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I searched the forum and can't find anyone writing about the PAC FiTech EFI unit.

http://paceperformance.com/i-22321653-pac-30002-600-hp-efi-master-package-with-fuel-pump.html

 

It is said to be a self-contained and self-learning TBI. The ECU is built-in the throttle body so you need very few wires to install this thing. Overall seems very easy to install. Searching in the internet I read excellent reviews. The only negatives are questions in regards to reliability due to the ECU being exposed to the engine heat, specially when the car is turned off. In this case maybe a plastic spacer should help. Only time will tell on that one. The ECU unit could also be programmed to work with the timing.

 

I am not sold into the idea of running EFI, but after seeing this system at a decent price, a part of me is feeling more compelled. Not right now, but perhaps in a near future. It just sounds like a cool mod that gives you a lot of control of timing and A/F. I didn't find dyno information.

 

Here is a thread that shows the installation in a Corvette:

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3670852-fitech-go-efi-review.html#post1589890693

 

Edit: for whatever is worth I found one Dyno comparison and 441 LS7. The HP and Torque are very close except in the mid range where the EFI unit was a tad ahead. The low end appears to be a tad better too, which make sense due to what I expect to give better fuel atomization at the low end.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774336&highlight=Fitech%20(http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774336&highlight=Fitech)

 

I just had my 351C refreshed (ok rebuilt). I replaced the old flat tappet cam and valve train with Comp Cam roller cam and valve train. Replaced the intake with Edelbrock Performer manifold. On top went with FiTech EFI4 and rather than run EF Pump from tank I opted for FiTechs Fuel Control Center. All went well except the way the FCC was mounted. The unit was mounted on the left fender well where the windshield washer res was.....problem...it was mounted on an angle...FCC per INSTRUCTIONS needs to be mounted VERTICAL or very near vertical....why....it won't allow proper venting to tank return since it operates with an internal float system. FIX: Installed spacers to position tank properly. Engine still in break in but runs great. Best tip: Read and Follow Instructions.....this is not a carb.....good luck

 

Did you use comp cams hydraulic roller lifters for your build?? if you did, make sure to keep an eye on them and listen for any tapping. I had 3 separate COMP lifters collapse on me this summer. I just pulled ALL of them and sent the whole kit back to comp. Waiting to hear back what they have to say about it. Been a lot of bad press going around the net about their hydraulic roller lifters!!! Good Luck. I have a set of Lunati or Isky lined up for mine.

 

Thanks for the warning...I'll be on the lookout

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The more I read about this system, the more I like it. They claim to use all GM OEM sensors and a Bosch O2 sensor. I would be happier if the warranty was longer than 1 year.

 

I also wanted to know if this would work with a Mallory Unilite distributor I picked up, recently.

 

Basstrix, did you ever receive an answer concerning the Malory distributor? That's exactly what I have. Thanks.

 

I have had a Mallory Unilite distributor on engine for years with Jacobs coil and wiring and yes I just installed a FiTech EFI4 TB. So far during engine break in it has worked together flawlessly. This car is driver and is not for drag racing.

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Just for the heck of it, if you're going to run an MSD I would first use FiTech timing control only, then after running for a while, connect the MSD, just to see if there is any noticeable difference. Even though they're not using variable dwell control it may not need it. It's not like points where they have to stay open just because of the cam and required gap, which shortens the dwell time, and they probably already provide maximum dwell time.

Yes.... once i do it i want to take one step at the time. It won't be until summer.

I will first rebuild the carb, run it carbed for a little and then go to EFI..... one step at a time. I will keep the carb and original ignition around. That way I would know all is working well in case i want or need to revert.

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

That is very smart thinking. I installed my EFI but still have the old carb in the box that the TB came in.....have a great day

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have a FiTech EFI4 installed on my 71 351C with a EB Performer manifold. I have a C6 with a shift kit. Does anyone have a setup like this and if so were you able to connect the transmission kickdown rod without issues?? I have had a problem and am looking into getting a Lokar kickdown cable...problem is that they don't make a bracket (manifold mounted) to attach the cable to for routing cable down to transmission. Any ideas or solutions ? I suppose I could just shift it manually....hmm

 

Thanks

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I have a FiTech EFI4 installed on my 71 351C with a EB Performer manifold. I have a C6 with a shift kit. Does anyone have a setup like this and if so were you able to connect the transmission kickdown rod without issues?? I have had a problem and am looking into getting a Lokar kickdown cable...problem is that they don't make a bracket (manifold mounted) to attach the cable to for routing cable down to transmission. Any ideas or solutions ? I suppose I could just shift it manually....hmm

 

Thanks

 

For a c4 or c6 the kickdown rod is only utilized when passing. Or when you jump on the gas in high gear. If you put the car in drive without the kickdown hooked up it will shift normally through the gears.  If you want it to downshift by itself from high gear to 2nd you will need to hook up the kickdown. If you don't mind doing it yourself you can leave it off. It will not hurt the trans. I have never had my hooked up on my car for the past 12 years or so.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.
https://youtu.be/SoW1fhaFPzY  Burn Out Video. 

 

044.jpg

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I have a FiTech EFI4 installed on my 71 351C with a EB Performer manifold. I have a C6 with a shift kit. Does anyone have a setup like this and if so were you able to connect the transmission kickdown rod without issues?? I have had a problem and am looking into getting a Lokar kickdown cable...problem is that they don't make a bracket (manifold mounted) to attach the cable to for routing cable down to transmission. Any ideas or solutions ? I suppose I could just shift it manually....hmm

 

Thanks

 

For a c4 or c6 the kickdown rod is only utilized when passing. Or when you jump on the gas in high gear. If you put the car in drive without the kickdown hooked up it will shift normally through the gears.  If you want it to downshift by itself from high gear to 2nd you will need to hook up the kickdown. If you don't mind doing it yourself you can leave it off. It will not hurt the trans. I have never had my hooked up on my car for the past 12 years or so.

 

Now that you mention it I never used much at all for passing. I think its time to retire the kick down rod and box it up for the next owner....unless my wife buries me in the car when I pass away. Thanks for the feedback.

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Looks like I'll be joining the FiTech crowd. Put in my order tonight.

1971 Mustang Grande, 351 Cleveland 2v, C6, 9"

-Fitech EFI

-Comp Cams 284hr

-Aussie Heads

-Weiand Xcelerator intake

-Long Tube Headers

-Boss Hogg "Street Bandit"

 

 

My Build

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The more I read about this system, the more I like it.  They claim to use all GM OEM sensors and a Bosch O2 sensor.  I would be happier if the warranty was longer than 1 year.

 

I also wanted to know if this would work with a Mallory Unilite distributor I picked up, recently.

 

Basstrix, did you ever receive an answer concerning the Malory distributor? That's exactly what I have. Thanks.

 

I have had a Mallory Unilite distributor on engine for years with Jacobs coil and wiring and yes I just installed a FiTech EFI4 TB. So far during engine break in it has worked together flawlessly. This car is driver and is  not for drag racing.

 

Thanks for the reply, the Mallory is a three wire dizzy correct? Did you hook it up to the FiTech ignition control or run the dizzy without the FiTech timing control?

 

 

 

 

Looks like I'll be joining the FiTech crowd. Put in my order tonight.

 

Very nice!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looks like I'll be joining the FiTech crowd. Put in my order tonight.

 

I am running w/o the ignition control. If your not racing don't know why you would need ignition control.

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  • 1 month later...

I am in the last steps of installing the FiTech. I had installed the water temp sensor in the port by the water pump, but after reading a little more it seems that I should be using the one by the thermostat where the gauge sender is installed. If I do so, then I have to move the gauge sender to the port by the water pump. Does this impact my gauge measurements? I don't know how the water circuit works inside this engine. Will it measure temperature only after the thermostat opens and not while the block is heating?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I did the same thing. The temp will show a little lower on the gauge but it is more important that the ECU gets the actual reading. The gauge will be a little past the first mark.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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I did the same thing. The temp will show a little lower on the gauge but it is more important that the ECU gets the actual reading. The gauge will be a little past the first mark.

Yeah... i decided to swap the sender units after reading your post. Thanks.

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Last night at midnight I finished hooking everything up. My plan was to start the car today for a test, but couldn't hold it. I followed FiTech instructions for priming (primed about five times) and setup, cranked the engine and it started right away. Very exciting! Run it for about 3 minutes - I had the garage door closed so I don't wake up the neighborhood. So far so good. Will try to test drive and tweak this weekend, but need to finish couple issues in the rear fender before I drive it. My installation is very neat with Russell fuel hoses/fittings and RobBMC PowerSurge pump. For now I am not controlling the timing with the EFI. Once I test drive and feel all is good I will write more details about my setup. I typically don't like to write all the details until all is tested.....

 

Edit: GoEFI 600 p/n 30002

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Sweet. Nice job. Share some pics please!

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Congrats!! I am curious how that works out for you. Are you going to let the ECU control timing later on?

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Congrats!! I am curious how that works out for you.  Are you going to let the ECU control timing later on?

 

The plan is to use the ECU to control timing once I have all under control. However, it will be a slow process. First I am planing to add CD ignition w/o control, and then I will add control. I will need a new distributor, like a Duraspark type. However, since this winter my plan is to take the motor out to stroke it, I may just wait until that's done so there will be less issues to deal with once I restart it next year.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Congrats!! I am curious how that works out for you.  Are you going to let the ECU control timing later on?

 

The plan is to use the ECU to control timing once I have all under control. However, it will be a slow process. First I am planing to add CD ignition w/o control, and then I will add control. I will need a new distributor, like a Duraspark type. However, since this winter my plan is to take the motor out to stroke it, I may just wait until that's done so there will be less issues to deal with once I restart it next year.

 

When you let the ECU control timing I have found that it smooth's out the motor considerably.  I have been running my EFI system for over 2 years now and am really happy with it.  Tuning the motor is really a snap now, no more changing jets, adjusting A/F etc.  Just punch what you want in the handheld and you are done.  You can also monitor your motor while driving to see what it is doing.

 

If they made a six pack system I would not hesitate changing over for my current project.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Congrats!! I am curious how that works out for you.  Are you going to let the ECU control timing later on?

 

The plan is to use the ECU to control timing once I have all under control. However, it will be a slow process. First I am planing to add CD ignition w/o control, and then I will add control. I will need a new distributor, like a Duraspark type. However, since this winter my plan is to take the motor out to stroke it, I may just wait until that's done so there will be less issues to deal with once I restart it next year.

 

When you let the ECU control timing I have found that it smooth's out the motor considerably.  I have been running my EFI system for over 2 years now and am really happy with it.  Tuning the motor is really a snap now, no more changing jets, adjusting A/F etc.  Just punch what you want in the handheld and you are done.  You can also monitor your motor while driving to see what it is doing.

 

If they made a six pack system I would not hesitate changing over for my current project.

Wow.... there is an idea.... a six pack would look so cool. They have the dual quad but thats not as appealing as six pack.

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here are a few pictures of my install. I will post more details in my build thread. In essence I have a PowerSurge pump from RobBMC installed on the passenger rear side of the engine compartment (removed the charcoal canister). This pump is fed by the engine's mechanical pump. I have a return line to the tank returning via the top of the tank. Venting is now through the cap. I used Russell Pro Classic fuel hoses in the engine compartment. The location of the pump is very convenient since it minimized the length of the fuel hoses. I tried to hide all the wiring as much as possible. The only clues are the fuses, which I left on top of the shock tower bracing for easy access and convenience.

Today I drove for a few miles and is running great except for some bugging during acceleration. It has a lot of settings that I will have to play to fix that. However, the recommend to let it run on its own so it can learn from the system. It got better the more I use it. I love the LCD controller which allows you to see all the parameter while you drive. The location in the ashtray pocket is perfect.

 

RobBMC PowerSurge Pump:

20170427_002534.jpg

 

Hard to tell there is an EFI system unless you really know what to look for, and except for the exposed fuse holders:

20170427_002601.jpg

 

Without the filter base:

20170427_002859.jpg

 

LCD screen in ashtray pocket:

20170427_003332.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Awesome install; the RobMC tank really is a great fueling solution; and the FiTech handheld sure is a lot nicer then the dated Fast 1.0 unit; the FiTech is really a slick setup!

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50 miles on it and I love it. With temperatures in the mid 40s in the morning the car drives great after very little warm up. The huge difference so far is the driveability while cold - no hesitation at all. I am still tweaking some parameters to improve WOT acceleration and eliminate bugging.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here are a few pictures of my install. I will post more details in my build thread. In essence I have a PowerSurge pump from RobBMC installed on the passenger rear side of the engine compartment (removed the charcoal canister). This pump is fed by the engine's mechanical pump. I have a return line to the tank returning via the top of the tank. Venting is now through the cap. I used Russell Pro Classic fuel hoses in the engine compartment. The location of the pump is very convenient since it minimized the length of the fuel hoses. I tried to hide all the wiring as much as possible. The only clues are the fuses, which I left on top of the shock tower bracing for easy access and convenience.

Today I drove for a few miles and is running great except for some bugging during acceleration. It has a lot of settings that I will have to play to fix that. However, the recommend to let it run on its own so it can learn from the system. It got better the more I use it. I love the LCD controller which allows you to see all the parameter while you drive. The location in the ashtray pocket is perfect.

 

RobBMC PowerSurge Pump:

20170427_002534.jpg

 

Hard to tell there is an EFI system unless you really know what to look for, and except for the exposed fuse holders:

20170427_002601.jpg

 

Without the filter base:

20170427_002859.jpg

 

LCD screen in ashtray pocket:

20170427_003332.jpg

 

Looks awesome you did a great job! Planning on going with the PowerSurge II too with my Holley Sniper setup  ::thumb::  Will install the pump in the same place as you did.

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Looks awesome you did a great job! Planning on going with the PowerSurge II too with my Holley Sniper setup  ::thumb::  Will install the pump in the same place as you did.

 

Thanks. I think that location works great. Now, keep in mind that i have ceramic coated headers, but I still covered the bottom half of the pump's tank with heat shield and insulating spray. On top of that i added a heat shield to the header pipes that were near the tank. And to be even more on the safe side i covered the heater hoses that run through there. Maybe overkill, but it is inexpensive insurance. The last thing you want is for the gasoline to boil.

 

 

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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