Lizard Skin or Dynamat

I am getting ready to insulate my interior. What is the best approach, Dynamat or Lizard Skin?

I have gone back and forth on this as well. I have done tons of research and looked at all the alternative brands and even adding microspheres to latex paint to make my own lizard skin type of product. I know by my research that both of the products you are looking at perform very well. I think I have decided to lay down a stick on insulation to avoid the mess of spraying lizard skin. However, if you have the time, space and patience... maybe the lizard skin is the best way to go to be able to get all the little crevices and such. I have read that the prep work is pretty easy, just scuff up the existing coatings, repair rust and inhibit it, and tape off wear you don't want it sprayed. So I think this one is purely a preference, as they both work very well. I recommend doing the ceiling and the entire trunk area as well, then maybe hit the inside of the door skin with Dynamat as it would be fairly hard to hit it with an even coat of any spray on material. Hope this helps at all. Here is what I am going to use for cost versus Dynamat.

http://www.amazon.com/Noico-Self-adhesive-Deadening-Automotive-Insulation/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=61DhrAYhMLL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=08MQADBZWFBY67CTVBMJ

I went with Lizard skin since it's sprayed on so I was able to spray in the voids in all the interior, doors and on the roof to give it a more solid feel . I followed with a couple of coatings of the ceramic insulation on the floors and roof. The heat from the headers used to heat the floorboard quite a lot but that is greatly reduced now and can really feel the difference with the car running when I step out of the car. In the summer when it was 100* I immediately felt the heat on my legs coming ftom the exhaust but the interior floor was cool. Also with the sun beating on the roof that heat was reduced.

Don't have any experience with Dynamat. Only disadvantage is the spraying can get a little messy with Lizard skin. There are pictures here:

Floorboards

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-bojo-s-73-project?page=7

Trunk and voids:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-bojo-s-73-project?page=8

Front Fenders:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-bojo-s-73-project?page=10

bdietz,

I went the Lizard Skin like jbojo did. I had planned on using the 3m Sound Deadening Pads, Self-Adhesive Sheets, Black, 08840. My body man and I discussed the possibilities of moisture between the pad and the metal. Plus the Lizard skin was able to get into the nooks and crannies where the Dyna mat would be very difficult to in places where the Lizard skin went in easy.

mustang7173

I went with the Lizard Skin sound deadener only for the interior. I liked the option of being able to paint over it so the interior would still be green. I have several friends with kit cars who love the Lizard Skin.

I have gone back and forth on this as well. I have done tons of research and looked at all the alternative brands and even adding microspheres to latex paint to make my own lizard skin type of product. I know by my research that both of the products you are looking at perform very well. I think I have decided to lay down a stick on insulation to avoid the mess of spraying lizard skin. However, if you have the time, space and patience... maybe the lizard skin is the best way to go to be able to get all the little crevices and such. I have read that the prep work is pretty easy, just scuff up the existing coatings, repair rust and inhibit it, and tape off wear you don't want it sprayed. So I think this one is purely a preference, as they both work very well. I recommend doing the ceiling and the entire trunk area as well, then maybe hit the inside of the door skin with Dynamat as it would be fairly hard to hit it with an even coat of any spray on material. Hope this helps at all. Here is what I am going to use for cost versus Dynamat.

http://www.amazon.com/Noico-Self-adhesive-Deadening-Automotive-Insulation/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=61DhrAYhMLL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=08MQADBZWFBY67CTVBMJ

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What Nik said. I went with the matting as lizard skin was stupid expensive. 2x dynamat

And many X if you use a generic like Nik suggested.

On Qcode351mach's (Scott) recommendation, I went with RAAMat, which is pretty much identical to Dynamat, however significantly less expensive (probably because it doesn't have their logo plastered all over it ).

Just like with Dynamat, it's a thermal barrier AND sound deadener, so, one-stop shopping, I guess.

http://www.raamaudio.com/categories/Mat-and-Foam-Products/

Here's mine with the RAAMat prior to putting the dashboard back in.



I also did the roof and some strips on the insides of the quarters. I still need to finish up the trunk, but that will be a project for spring.

Hope this helps.

Hi Scott that is so awesome photo of the car with that install [THUMBS UP SIGN] Thanks for sharing this with us all Regards Lars

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73

Hello Lars,

Scott is the guy who recommended the RAAMat to me - I'm Eric.

Wow that I am sorry for Eric! [WINKING FACE].. But that is so awesome product. It is so easy to get on [WINKING FACE] Big + it works so well after! But I didn't get it more than on the floor and tunnel... But I am inspired by your photos! And I will have more in my car one day! [THUMBS UP SIGN] Regards Lars

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73

[ Post: #7RE: Lizard Skin or Dynamat

On Qcode351mach's (Scott) recommendation, I went with RAAMat, which is pretty much identical to Dynamat, however significantly less expensive (probably because it doesn't have their logo plastered all over it ]

Eric, that looks great. Do you have any idea how much rammat you used? Did you buy a kit? Also, which carpet did you install? I see there is a lot of options on carpet, some have mass backing some don't. I would think that if one was to do what you did you wouldn't need the mass backing on the carpet? I'm just trying to get an idea of what I will have to spend to do the sound reached and carpet. Thanks, Ryan.

another option is b-quiet. I received samples from them, and it looks like a good product, a bit cheaper than dynamat.

Hey Ryan,

What you see in the picture is pretty much the entire floor pan from the non-folding trunk bulkhead to the firewall. Add to that the roof, and I believe that's approximately 2 "kits" (37.5 Sq Ft. bundles - 20 sheets each). I purchased 3 kits in all, because I intend to do the trunk floor, inside of the trunk lid, and add some strips to the insides of the quarter panels in the trunk area.

I also picked up some of the Ensolite foam material, which I'll be using inside the door panels as well as the trunk area under the carpet kit.

I went with ACC cut-pile Mass-Backed carpet from CJPP for the interior (because I hate the factory "loop" stuff). I also bought the repop underlay kit, but decided that between the RAAMat and mass-backed carpet, it was just too much thickness to overcome, since the mass-backed carpet is molded, too. Add that on top of my moving the seat platforms back a few inches, and the carpet was my own brand of Personal Hell during installation - but... whipped out the heat gun and made it work.

I mentioned I still need to do the insides of the door panels and trunk area, which I'm trying to double-up my projects in those areas, so I only have to pull them apart once (need to swap in some SPAS power window motors and adjust the power locks while I have the door panels off, for instance). I still have something like 22 pieces of the RAAMat butyl pieces left - each is about 11"x23" or 1.875 sq ft of coverage.

Hope that helps.

Hey Ryan,

What you see in the picture is pretty much the entire floor pan from the non-folding trunk bulkhead to the firewall. Add to that the roof, and I believe that's approximately 2 "kits" (37.5 Sq Ft. bundles - 20 sheets each). I purchased 3 kits in all, because I intend to do the trunk floor, inside of the trunk lid, and add some strips to the insides of the quarter panels in the trunk area.

I also picked up some of the Ensolite foam material, which I'll be using inside the door panels as well as the trunk area under the carpet kit.

I went with ACC cut-pile Mass-Backed carpet from CJPP for the interior (because I hate the factory "loop" stuff). I also bought the repop underlay kit, but decided that between the RAAMat and mass-backed carpet, it was just too much thickness to overcome, since the mass-backed carpet is molded, too. Add that on top of my moving the seat platforms back a few inches, and the carpet was my own brand of Personal Hell during installation - but... whipped out the heat gun and made it work.

I mentioned I still need to do the insides of the door panels and trunk area, which I'm trying to double-up my projects in those areas, so I only have to pull them apart once (need to swap in some SPAS power window motors and adjust the power locks while I have the door panels off, for instance). I still have something like 22 pieces of the RAAMat butyl pieces left - each is about 11"x23" or 1.875 sq ft of coverage.

Hope that helps.

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Lots of good info! On the mass backed carpet, I was considering going with the one without the backing if I used the raamat. I didn't know if it would be to thick if I used both. What kind of prep on the surfaces does the raamat need? Also on the carpet, what don't you like on the loop vs the cut piled, what is the difference? Sorry for all the questions, I've been trying to research the carpet thing for awhile now trying to decide which one is better. I didn't know they had so many different kinds now. 15 yrs ago when I redid my 73 Mach I don't think they had so many options. Thanks, Ryan

Funny how post show up at the rite time. I just ordered the lizard skin kit from CJ pony parts.

Lots of good info! On the mass backed carpet, I was considering going with the one without the backing if I used the raamat. I didn't know if it would be to thick if I used both. What kind of prep on the surfaces does the raamat need? Also on the carpet, what don't you like on the loop vs the cut piled, what is the difference? Sorry for all the questions, I've been trying to research the carpet thing for awhile now trying to decide which one is better. I didn't know they had so many different kinds now. 15 yrs ago when I redid my 73 Mach I don't think they had so many options. Thanks, Ryan

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I prefer the cut-pile because it won't unravel a line halfway across the floor if something snags a loop. Not to mention, it's more modern in appearance. Cut-pile is like regular home carpet (well, most carpets that aren't like berber or similar) - the factory 'loop' stuff reminds me of the cheesy indoor/outdoor carpet they use in schools and office buildings. Plus, it matches my cool floor mats.



The RAAMat is only about 1/16" - 3/32" thick... if that - probably less if you put a roller to it or something similar that'll squish it down a bit. I think the factory-style underlay is actually a tad thicker... and then you add the mass-backing of the carpet, and yeah... that would be too thick. Since the RAAMat is both a heat and sound insulator, I just decided to blow-off the underlay pieces. Even so, the underlay pieces only fit in the 'flat' areas, between the surface features of the floor.

So basically, if you went with RAAMat and mass-backed carpet, you'll be fine. As for the underlay pieces as well, again - I don't know since I decided not to use mine.

Prep work is no big deal - just make sure it's clean. If you have paint or something like an epoxy coating (like Rust Bullet or similar), you can put it right down on top of that. I used Rust Bullet Black Shell pretty much everywhere in my car (I just liked it better that plain ol' primer gray).



Those three tools in the picture are all I used to install the RAAMat: Scissors, a good utility knife, and a wall-paper seam roller.

Once again, my biggest problem with installing the molded mass-backed carpet along with the RAAMat was the fact that I'd moved my seat platforms back a few inches for some extra legroom. By doing so, it threw the whole 'molded carpet' thing right out the window - nothing lined up properly after that. The rear footwell molded areas were squished up against the backs of the seat platforms, the fronts didn't fit quite right because the molded areas began ahead of the seat platforms. The heat gun helped a lot with that.

The only real issues I see with the mass-backed stuff is that it will be a little thicker trying to stuff under things like the kick panels, quarter trim panels, and the door sill plates (which, the repop sills are pretty flimsy and will bend easily).

Also - make sure you open up any mounting holes in the RAAMat (or any other insulating material) before you start laying down the carpet, otherwise you'll never find 'em again.

Thanks for explaining and answering my questions Eric. Your right about the carpet looking more modern. I think I'll be going with something like the raamat material. Thanks Ryan.

Wow that I am sorry for Eric!

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No problem, Lars. I find it impressive that we have so many fine people here from around the world that don't speak English as their first language, and are such a big part of our group.

Intet problem , Lars . Jeg finder det imponerende, at vi har så mange fine folk her fra hele verden, der ikke taler engelsk som deres første sprog , og er sådan en stor del af vores gruppe. Jeg burde vide mere dansk - min fars familie er fra København, men jeg er født i USA.

I hope Google Translator at least got it close.

Thanks for explaining and answering my questions Eric. Your right about the carpet looking more modern. I think I'll be going with something like the raamat material. Thanks Ryan.

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No worries, Ryan! I hope it all helps you with your decision - feel free to ask any other questions you might have... I'm happy to share my experiences. ::thumb::