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Okay spark problem solved, it was bad ground.

 

New problem: Carburator is flooding BADLY! Like 2 geysers on top of the carbs badly.

I have adjusted the floats according to edelbrocks instructions and as mentioned cleaned it and replaced all the gaskets.

 

One problem after the other.. sigh...

 

I have not done much carburator work, what else could cause this except badly adjusted floats?

1972 Mercury Cougar XR-7 2dr hardtop

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Fuel pressure should be 6-8 pounds, if your pump is producing more than thet you will need a fuel pressure regulator/

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"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Assuming the floats are properly set and don't have a hole in them, and the fuel pressure is normal, about all that leaves is the needle and seat. Chuck

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Don't rely on what the pump is supposed to put out. I have a pressure gauge on my feed line and it normally showed around 6 psi, one day it wouldn't run and the pressure was at 12 psi.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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I will start by checking the floats, needles and seats. Really should get a fuel pressure gauge, too bad they are expensive and im on quite a low budget.

 

Cleveland parts are expensive, was looking into buying the oil pan gasket, valve seals, head gaskets (even if i get it running i think i would like to lift the heads and intake for proper cleaning), valley pan and intake gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, valve covergaskets.

Only this will set me back about 210 dollars.

 

And then i would need new head bolts, another 140 dollars.

So 350 bucks just to clean the engine properly.

 

And full rebuild kit with flat top pistons and a street cam will cost me 300 bucks more on ebay including shipping.

 

I cant seem to fit the damn compression tester either. Tried the "push down" variant but that wont fit at all. And the threaded variant i have to bend so much to get down there so i cant thread it in...

And even if i got it in i still need the engine warm while testing...

1972 Mercury Cougar XR-7 2dr hardtop

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Another thing. Ive been told many times now that the issues the car is suffering most likely is caused by clogged fuel tank ventilation.

 

And stupid as i am i havent checked it out, how do i do this? :$

1972 Mercury Cougar XR-7 2dr hardtop

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Are you sure the carb isn't 180 degrees out? When I did my engine we originally had it 180 degrees out and the engine would run and idle. Very rough and would backfire and die but it would idle for a couple seconds. I even had flames out of the carb at one point.

1971 Mustang Grande, 351 Cleveland 2v, C6, 9"

-Fitech EFI

-Comp Cams 284hr

-Aussie Heads

-Weiand Xcelerator intake

-Long Tube Headers

-Boss Hogg "Street Bandit"

 

 

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Vozaday i assume you mean the distributor? I triple checked that now and everything is set right.

 

I also noticed just now (and i know someone wrote this previously in the thread) that it does in fact have a 4V intake between its 2V heads.

Dont know if this is the problem though, since the previous owner (at least he said so) that he did not put the intake on the car and he has driven it.

 

Also cleaned out needles and seats (even though i couldnt see any crap there) but did not have time to start it up.

1972 Mercury Cougar XR-7 2dr hardtop

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If you have a 4V intake for 4V heads on an engine with 2V heads, it is likely not sealing properly. The mating surfaces just don't line up well. but there are 4V intakes made for 2V heads. Do you have apart number off your intake? Prior owner statements are about as reliable as politicians' promises

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"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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I dont have a part number right now, but the intake says "Performer 351 4V" behind the carb. I can check for part no. Tomorrow.

 

And the person who put the intake there used a LOT of blue silicone thats for sure.

 

Thats is very true, i do know his brother though so hopefully he was telling the truth.

Still no guarantees though.

1972 Mercury Cougar XR-7 2dr hardtop

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Vozaday i assume you mean the distributor? I triple checked that now and everything is set right.

 

I also noticed just now (and i know someone wrote this previously in the thread) that it does in fact have a 4V intake between its 2V heads.

Dont know if this is the problem though, since the previous owner (at least he said so) that he did not put the intake on the car and he has driven it.

 

Also cleaned out needles and seats (even though i couldnt see any crap there) but did not have time to start it up.

 

Yes, sorry was working nights. I really need to learn to double check my posts when I'm that tired.

 

I dont have a part number right now, but the intake says "Performer 351 4V" behind the carb. I can check for part no. Tomorrow.

 

And the person who put the intake there used a LOT of blue silicone thats for sure.

 

Thats is very true, i do know his brother though so hopefully he was telling the truth.

Still no guarantees though.

 

My intake says Edelbrock 351C 2V right on it. But a quick google search shows that it shouldn't make that huge of a difference, the ports are different sizes but they are in the correct location.

1971 Mustang Grande, 351 Cleveland 2v, C6, 9"

-Fitech EFI

-Comp Cams 284hr

-Aussie Heads

-Weiand Xcelerator intake

-Long Tube Headers

-Boss Hogg "Street Bandit"

 

 

My Build

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Fired the car up today and absoluteley no difference. Maybe it idles longer but thats it.

 

But i noticed now that the rocker arm at cylinder 5 is barely moving at all compared to the other cylinders... and it looks like the pushrod just rotates.

Also i think some more rocker arms are not moving quite as they should. But not as badly as no. 5.

 

Could this be a worn out cam after all? I took the rod out and it was straight and not worn.

1972 Mercury Cougar XR-7 2dr hardtop

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Sounds like worn cam lobes- that would explain your problems.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Maybe i should just pull the cam, got nothing to loose at this point.

 

Since its now got fuel and ignition fully sorted out im most certainly looking at some kind of mechanical rebuild wether i like it or not. Might as well pull the intake, heads and cam.

If the cam is worn i can sort that out and clean out the engine properly in the process.

I feel like i wanr to clean the lifter valley as well as machine-clean the heads.

And of course pull the oil pan, machine-clean that as well and clean the oil pickup. Or maybe replace the pump when im down there.

 

Too bad im on a tight budget here, kids and the house take up lots of money, and the wife is out of work.

 

Maybe i have to let the car sit this summer :(

 

Ah well, at least i got my old girl which never fails me. 1975 Saab 96, swedish quality at its best :)

 

I will keep posting my progress here :)

 

And also big thanks to you guys here! You and the people over at mercurycougar.net really helped me out on this!!

1972 Mercury Cougar XR-7 2dr hardtop

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It sounds like you're on the right track.

 

Do you know what the oil pressure is/was? You might be able to save a few bucks by dismantling the oil pump and inspecting it for wear and the clearances. If you don't know what the oil pressure was I would inspect a couple of rod bearings and main bearings while you have the pan off. You'll also need to inspect and measure the cam bearings.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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I dont know about the oil pressure but i think the gauge in the car is working so im going to check that out before dissasembly.

 

Definetly checking out some bearings while down there.

1972 Mercury Cougar XR-7 2dr hardtop

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I would hook up a mechanical gauge, much more responsive and better at diagnostics. You can tell a lot about bearing condition by watching pressure fluctuations during acceleration and deceleration.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Im starting to think i should save up and do a full rebuild, since the car probably will be sitting this summer anyway.

 

So i need some advice, is this a good kit to buy?http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=151254330507&alt=web

 

Flat top pistons and street cam.

I dont know so much about cams, how is this compared to a, say edelbrock performer cam?

 

IF i decide to do a complete teardown, i would like to gain some power in the process.

 

Or if bearings and so on seem okay i might just buy an edel performance and slap it back together.

1972 Mercury Cougar XR-7 2dr hardtop

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You don't need to pull the heads to do a cam change. Not pulling them will save you the costs of head gaskets and changing the coolant.

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"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Yes i know, but i feel i want to check the heads out properly and machine clean them. Also makes it much easier to replace the valve seals.

 

Right now im leaning towards pulling the engine out for minor upgrades and full rebuild.

 

I mean, the cam must have gone flat for a reason right?

Probably oil starvation or something? Considering how sludged the engine is.

Makes me wonder how the condition of cylinders and other mechanical components are.

1972 Mercury Cougar XR-7 2dr hardtop

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  • 2 weeks later...

Small update.

 

I started the dissasembly, intake and heads are off. Nice suprise - already got flat-top pistons!

 

Lost of sludge in the lifter valley, going to fill the engine up with diesel tomorrow.

 

Pulling the cam and hopefully the oil pan this weekend.

 

Then the plan is:

Guy at work going to ultrasonic clean the heads and pan.

Replace valve seals and grind the valves, as well as mill the heads.

Clean out oil pickup and also as good as i can - the block.

Buy a new cam, gasket set, head bolt etc.

 

Slap it back together and hopefully get to do some snowy donuts on my driveway :D

1972 Mercury Cougar XR-7 2dr hardtop

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I'm not familiar with Edelbrock carbs but if it were a Holly I would look at the power valve or accelerator pump as possible culprits.

 

FYI the edlebrock is a copy of the Carter AFB (just so you know). I was going to say power valve as well since it did backfire. However i have a Carter on mine and if it has the automatic choke i had mine backfire back in the day doing some work on it and it jammed the choke plate on the top of the carb not allowing it to breath correctly so i took the choke off. Had to tap on on it with the back of a screw driver to get it to "move back into place" so it would open and allow the car to breath. Can can backfire if you try to jump on it while its cold then would jam the choke plate. So that might be it see if the choke opens and closes properly if stuck there is your problem as its not getting any air.


The other thing is you said it sat so might just need to be gone thru and cleaned as the fuel now a days sucks and will evaporate clogging up the carb and everything. You can purchase an AFB rebuild kit through Summit, Jegs, or any good parts place that carrys hi perf stuff.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Reviving this thread again.

 

The weekend after the next one, me and a friend of mine is going to yank the engine out.

Then im going to dissasemble and inspect the crankshaft and main/rod bearings so i know what i should order.

 

The engine is getting a 0.30 bore and honing. Milling the crank if nessecary.

Going with a full rebuild kit from ebay, 0.30 flat tops, pretty mild cam, little hotter than stock though. Comparable with the edel performer.

Selling my 4V intake atm. And going to order a 2V edelbrock instead.

 

So the plan now is to build a mild street engine just to get me rolling this summer, and best of all- it is in the frames of my budget :)

1972 Mercury Cougar XR-7 2dr hardtop

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Reviving this thread again.

 

The weekend after the next one, me and a friend of mine is going to yank the engine out.

Then im going to dissasemble and inspect the crankshaft and main/rod bearings so i know what i should order.

 

The engine is getting a 0.30 bore and honing. Milling the crank if nessecary.

Going with a full rebuild kit from ebay, 0.30 flat tops, pretty mild cam, little hotter than stock though. Comparable with the edel performer.

Selling my 4V intake atm. And going to order a 2V edelbrock instead.

 

So the plan now is to build a mild street engine just to get me rolling this summer, and best of all- it is in the frames of my budget :)

 

I'm glad you have a plan. Some details you should consider: OEM rod bolt nuts and multi-groove valve known to be catastrophic failure items. Depth of front cam bearing is important as is checking lifter bore diameter. Both are known to cause oiling problems. Find out what the compression distance (CD) of the pistons you are buying are, they vary vendor to vendor. Too short and the piston ends up too far down in the bore, lowering compression and increasing the chance of detonation. Spend a little more to have the block squared left to right and front to rear as well as decking the block aiming for a .005 to .000 deck height (top of the piston relative to the top of the block when the piston is at top dead center). Depending on how much material is removed from the block and the heads you may have to mill the intake to ensure a good intake to head seal. Before the engine is completely dis-assembled, check to see that the damper timing mark shows 0 when the piston is at top dead center to confirm the outer ring of the damper has not moved. A good 3-5 angle valve job can really help the flow of the heads. Let us know how things progress and good luck.

 

Chuck

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Founded:
July 2010

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