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351 Cleveland Cam


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I am rebuilding my stock 2v Cleveland and brought the block to the shop today and realized the distributor drive gear on the cam is shot. I am not going to pretend to know anything about cams. My question is what is a good replacement cam? I would like to put in a very mild performance cam as the car will be daily driven. But, I honestly have no idea where to start. Once the motor is put back together I will have stock 2v heads with stock rockers/pushrods/valve springs. If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be greatly appreciated. If there is anyone who could get more in depth with info that would be even better. Such as, lift, duration and what kind of cam (hydraulic flat tappet is the standard right?)

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As long as the engine is kept basically standard, then the camshaft I'd recommend is the one based on the Erson RV10 grind as these are ground by many aftermarket camshaft companies such as Dynotec. We actually use to put these cams in our standard 2V Cleveland builds as they were the same price as a stock grind and would give the engine a bit more pep. They idle nicely, excellent vacuum and terrific drivability. The specs from memory are around 210@50 and valve lift is 484 on both intake and exhaust. As for your springs, they do get away with the standard type springs, but we would use the ones with the wound dampener in them. Standard pushrods and rockers are fine as long as they are in good condition, but just make sure the lifter pre load is set correctly, which usually requires shimming were the rocker fulcrums bolt to the heads. Being a stockish 2V engine they don't require split duration or extra lift on the exhaust side like a 4V. Even if you're using a 4 barrel intake and carb and even headers, this camshaft will still work very well in your application. Another thing to look at to give you the best performance/economy is your distributor. If you're still using points I'd suggest putting a Pertronix kit and also making sure the bush is in good condition, or buying a good electronic distributor (not Pro Comp or cheap eBay crap) I set Clevelands at 14-16 initial and 34-36 total at 2800-3000 RPM. Good luck with it all and if you need any further advice, remember there is a lot of people on here only too happy to offer good advice.

I just had a quick look for the cam specs and are as follows: 208@50 in & ex, lift 484 in &ex, 112 lobe separation, advertised duration 280/280 in & ex. Like I said, these cams work great in standard type engines and I have built plenty over the years with them fitted, so I know how well they respond with them.

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Jason been ages since I have seen this cam suggested. It works better than it should, I had a XD built like this with a top loader 650 holley and it was just such a nice thing to just get in and drive anywhere anytime. I guess we all go chasing high hp and forgot old proven no fuss mild set up's.

He has all the vices I admire and none of the virtues I despise

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As long as the engine is kept basically standard, then the camshaft I'd recommend is the one based on the Erson RV10 grind as these are ground by many aftermarket camshaft companies such as Dynotec. We actually use to put these cams in our standard 2V Cleveland builds as they were the same price as a stock grind and would give the engine a bit more pep. They idle nicely, excellent vacuum and terrific drivability. The specs from memory are around 210@50 and valve lift is 484 on both intake and exhaust. As for your springs, they do get away with the standard type springs, but we would use the ones with the wound dampener in them. Standard pushrods and rockers are fine as long as they are in good condition, but just make sure the lifter pre load is set correctly, which usually requires shimming were the rocker fulcrums bolt to the heads. Being a stockish 2V engine they don't require split duration or extra lift on the exhaust side like a 4V. Even if you're using a 4 barrel intake and carb and even headers, this camshaft will still work very well in your application. Another thing to look at to give you the best performance/economy is your distributor. If you're still using points I'd suggest putting a Pertronix kit and also making sure the bush is in good condition, or buying a good electronic distributor (not Pro Comp or cheap eBay crap) I set Clevelands at 14-16 initial and 34-36 total at 2800-3000 RPM. Good luck with it all and if you need any further advice, remember there is a lot of people on here only too happy to offer good advice.

I just had a quick look for the cam specs and are as follows: 208@50 in & ex, lift 484 in &ex, 112 lobe separation, advertised duration 280/280 in & ex. Like I said, these cams work great in standard type engines and I have built plenty over the years with them fitted, so I know how well they respond with them.

Do you know where I could find one? I have been searching around for a half hour and am having a real tough time finding one

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Comp cams has a similar cam

 

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=840&sb=2

 

but I've heard some complaints about their lifters recently-so I would suggest you do a bit of research before deciding what to use.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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As long as the engine is kept basically standard, then the camshaft I'd recommend is the one based on the Erson RV10 grind as these are ground by many aftermarket camshaft companies such as Dynotec. We actually use to put these cams in our standard 2V Cleveland builds as they were the same price as a stock grind and would give the engine a bit more pep. They idle nicely, excellent vacuum and terrific drivability. The specs from memory are around 210@50 and valve lift is 484 on both intake and exhaust. As for your springs, they do get away with the standard type springs, but we would use the ones with the wound dampener in them. Standard pushrods and rockers are fine as long as they are in good condition, but just make sure the lifter pre load is set correctly, which usually requires shimming were the rocker fulcrums bolt to the heads. Being a stockish 2V engine they don't require split duration or extra lift on the exhaust side like a 4V. Even if you're using a 4 barrel intake and carb and even headers, this camshaft will still work very well in your application. Another thing to look at to give you the best performance/economy is your distributor. If you're still using points I'd suggest putting a Pertronix kit and also making sure the bush is in good condition, or buying a good electronic distributor (not Pro Comp or cheap eBay crap) I set Clevelands at 14-16 initial and 34-36 total at 2800-3000 RPM. Good luck with it all and if you need any further advice, remember there is a lot of people on here only too happy to offer good advice.

I just had a quick look for the cam specs and are as follows: 208@50 in & ex, lift 484 in &ex, 112 lobe separation, advertised duration 280/280 in & ex. Like I said, these cams work great in standard type engines and I have built plenty over the years with them fitted, so I know how well they respond with them.

Do you know where I could find one? I have been searching around for a half hour and am having a real tough time finding one

 

Call Erson directly.

 

http://www.pbm-erson.com/Catalog/Erson/Camshafts/Hydraulic%20Flat%20Tappet_E?categoryId=5c615548-7a12-4d0e-9d6c-a3bf00e8a69f&filters=c9b81bc5-ecf5-4b76-9800-478974332ab4%2Cc7623eff-6cc4-47eb-b769-b167637e9262%2C12583c4b-750f-4650-afa0-a32a00e19e1c&sortby=1&page=1&pageSize=16&criteria=

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.

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Jason been ages since I have seen this cam suggested. It works better than it should, I had a XD built like this with a top loader 650 holley and it was just such a nice thing to just get in and drive anywhere anytime. I guess we all go chasing high hp and forgot old proven no fuss mild set up's.

Yeah Luke you're exactly right this cam is very underrated and surprises a lot of people. Exactly, we get caught up in searching for big power that sometimes we overlook the simple things that work on basic engines. Every standard Cleveland (302/351) we would do for customers would always get comments on how well they went and a lot of F truck owners were pleasently surprised on how well they pulled. I once did a 302 for a mate's XD (too tight to go 351) with a RV15 cam in it, a mild bowl job and 3 angle valve job on the heads and the rest of it was stock (including C4 & rear gears) except 600 Holley on an adaptor plate and a 2 1/2 in exhaust from the manifolds back. This thing absolutely flew and surprised many people (including myself) on how well this thing went. Of course no one believed it was a 302 and was always accused of being a 351, so I'd tell them put their money up and I'll measure the stroke to prove it. Nobody ever wanted to put money on it as they were probably pissed that they got beat by a 302, so they probably told themselves they got beat by a 351 to make them feel better.


As long as the engine is kept basically standard, then the camshaft I'd recommend is the one based on the Erson RV10 grind as these are ground by many aftermarket camshaft companies such as Dynotec. We actually use to put these cams in our standard 2V Cleveland builds as they were the same price as a stock grind and would give the engine a bit more pep. They idle nicely, excellent vacuum and terrific drivability. The specs from memory are around 210@50 and valve lift is 484 on both intake and exhaust. As for your springs, they do get away with the standard type springs, but we would use the ones with the wound dampener in them. Standard pushrods and rockers are fine as long as they are in good condition, but just make sure the lifter pre load is set correctly, which usually requires shimming were the rocker fulcrums bolt to the heads. Being a stockish 2V engine they don't require split duration or extra lift on the exhaust side like a 4V. Even if you're using a 4 barrel intake and carb and even headers, this camshaft will still work very well in your application. Another thing to look at to give you the best performance/economy is your distributor. If you're still using points I'd suggest putting a Pertronix kit and also making sure the bush is in good condition, or buying a good electronic distributor (not Pro Comp or cheap eBay crap) I set Clevelands at 14-16 initial and 34-36 total at 2800-3000 RPM. Good luck with it all and if you need any further advice, remember there is a lot of people on here only too happy to offer good advice.

I just had a quick look for the cam specs and are as follows: 208@50 in & ex, lift 484 in &ex, 112 lobe separation, advertised duration 280/280 in & ex. Like I said, these cams work great in standard type engines and I have built plenty over the years with them fitted, so I know how well they respond with them.

Do you know where I could find one? I have been searching around for a half hour and am having a real tough time finding one

A quick look on Google found these guys in the US with genuine Erson cams, but like I said many aftermarket companies use this grind such as Dynotec (which I highly recommend if not using genuine Erson) Speed Pro, Sealed Power, etc. anyway good luck with the build.

http://usaperform.com/ford-351c-351m-hydraulic-lifter-208%C2%B0208%C2%B0-lift-p-3114.html

Just seen the post from Tommy K above about calling Erson direct which is another good idea too.

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This is what I installed in my 73 'vert with 2V heads and I LOVE it!

 

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=SRCH&Store_Code=CC&Search=32-242-4

 

 

 

And this is how it performed right after it was broken in.

 

 

 

 

Just some food for thought.

Doc

Project started 8-7-10

Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system

Current "mini-project": interior upgrade :-/

[button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=76]Doc's Garage[/button][button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-mustang-convertible-restoration-and-modification]Doc's Wiki[/button]

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That sounded awesome!!!

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Wow that is so awesome video 😎[THUMBS UP SIGN]

 

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73 😎

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73:whistling:

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This is what I installed in my 73 'vert with 2V heads and I LOVE it!

 

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=SRCH&Store_Code=CC&Search=32-242-4

 

 

 

And this is how it performed right after it was broken in.

 

 

 

 

Just some food for thought.

Awesome.... 6200 for redline?

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20210826_100810-mod-s.jpg.52aeaedc03b0419348700fb9c465e338.jpg

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I think our Australian members are giving good advise. Too many people get too carried away and put a high lift cam with too much duration and overlap and they just will not last on the street. They are made for racing and not for lots of miles. I hear people blaming their oil for cam and lifter failures but it is normal wear on a radical cam with high spring rates. Many race situations never see 1,000 miles on an engine. Keep it mild and you will be much happier and many more miles. Might not sound as cool but will last much longer.

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well David that is so Right on the Cams. But regarding my application is at the Cams is high lifting. Not a big deal when I don't drive a lot of miles. But ofcurs if you are driving to work with it every day. Denmark is a small country with small distance between towns. So down at my friend place there is a good road to do some racing [CHEQUERED FLAG] 😎[THUMBS UP SIGN][CHRISTMAS TREE] which you Merry Christmas to all [CHRISTMAS TREE][WRAPPED PRESENT] Regards Lars DK73

 

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73 😎

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73:whistling:

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Any more on the cam and engine combo....2V heads ported...polished...etc.... What intake, carb combo. That video got my attention then left me hanging with more questions than answers. How does it idle...lopey or smooth....etc....?:

Pulling up to 6K rpm with 2V heads....thats what I am talking about!!!!! More information PLEASE!!!!!

Memphis "I'm a little tired, I'm a little wired , and I think I deserve a little appreciation"

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This is what I installed in my 73 'vert with 2V heads and I LOVE it!

 

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=SRCH&Store_Code=CC&Search=32-242-4

 

 

 

And this is how it performed right after it was broken in.

 

 

 

 

Just some food for thought.

 

That is still so bad-ass. ::thumb::

 

I used Doc's example and also went with a CompCam Magnum 270H with similar numbers (but hydraulic roller, rather than flat tappets like Doc's):

 

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=855&sb=2

 

Haven't driven it yet, but here's the first fire-up of mine (sorry for the wind noise - my first ever YouTube video :whistling: ):

 

 

I'm hoping for something similar with mine.

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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