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Decision Time... Advice?


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Alright, it looks like my Carb is in need of rebuilding/replacing. Carb runs fine, but if I don't start the car for a week, I have to use starter fluid due to it loosing all of the fuel in the bowl. Car has new fuel pump and lines, so I know it is the Carb.

 

Currently I have a 351 2v. So I am torn if I should just rebuild it or replace it with an aftermarket, better performing 2v or do the 4v convertion.

 

I figure if I have to get into the carb anyway, it is a perfect time to give it a little more juice. I am not unhappy with the way in runs, drive now. But I wouldn't be upset if if had a little more jump off of the line pep either.

 

Opinions?

73 H Code Convertible

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Using starter fluid is very hard on your engine. You can refill the bowls on a holley or a Motorcraft 4300D with a small funnel through the vent tubes. (Most carbs can be filled this way)

 

What kind of carb is it?

 

A holley is a cinch to replace bowl gaskets on-you don't necessarily need to rebuild it. Heck you can change bowl gaskets on the car in about 10 minutes.

 

If it is a 4300 D You should either replace it, or send it to someone that knows these carbs-they can be good, but inexperienced builders aren't likely to get them right on the first try. I suppose you could get a rebuild kit and just change all the gaskets since you already feel like it performs well, but you are on your own if you have problems.

 

Replacing it will require either a new intake manifold or an adapter/spacer-the adapters are cheap enough, but a new manifold is at least a few hundred dollars and your time or someone else's in labor

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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It is the 2V carb, so that would be the 2150, right?

 

I suppose I am going to have to replace.

 

Should be fairly easy to bolt on new intake and carb right?

 

Anyone got any "watch out for this" advice?

 

I don't mind doing the work myself. After all, I have this whole community to help... [emoji3]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

73 H Code Convertible

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I'd say just go the Edlebrock Performer and 4 barrel carb route which is an easy conversion to do. A carb, either Holley or an Edlebrock 4 barrel around 600 CFM vac sec would be best for a 351 2V Cleveland. This change over has been done by many people and is pretty straight forward to do and only requires only basic tools to do the job, even someone with very little mechanical experience can do it. If you run into any dramas along the way, there are many people on this site only too happy to help you get through it. Good luck and all the best with it.

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FYI

The throttle cable mounting plate adapter (351 W only) and

the trans kick-down adapter are tricky and NOT plug-n-play.

 

Research that before you begin.

 

Paul

73 Grande

351C 2v

Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5

 

Gasoline is for washing parts.

Alcohol is for drinking.

Nitomethane is for racing!

 

 

Work in Progress photos here:

Last Update: 4/23/16

 

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/therocket366/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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They make a Holley 600 with the kickdown you need and the performer manifold has the same carb base height so it should just bolt on. Summit Racing can help you get the right parts.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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They make a Holley 600 with the kickdown you need and the performer manifold has the same carb base height so it should just bolt on. Summit Racing can help you get the right parts.

 

+1

- Mike

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Getting the manifold on square and level can be challenging. There have been several discussions on this forum about it and which gaskets seem to work best. Getting it sealed correctly will prevent vacuum leaks and oil from being sucked into the intake from the valley. A good torque wrench and proper torque sequencing is also necessary.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Also on the carb subject. I have heard a lot of good things about the new street demon carbs available in 625 cfm and 750 cfm. They also offer them with a composite bowl to reduce heat transfer. I am planning on adding the 750 to mine. They have a slightly different primary secondary design that is said to improve throttle response considerably.

 

http://www.demoncarbs.com/Types/Street%20Demon.asp

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Better yet throw the turkey pan/bathtub gasket away, it makes sealing more challenging.

 

When you get ready to do it, there are a few good write ups on here. On a Cleveland it is very straightforward once you gather the correct parts.

 

I replace a few bolts with threaded rod to guide my intake on square and then remove the rods and replace with bolts. The end rails (front and rear of the intake are sealed with cork gaskets and RTV-most throw the cork away and use rtv on the ends only. If you do so, roughing up the rails on the block and intake with a punch will help to prevent leaks. The trick is to use enough RTV without overdoing it. By setting the intake on dry and looking at the gaps, you can get a handle on how large a bead to lay down.

 

All in all it is a 3-4 hour job if you are slow and meticulous. I can change one out with a new carb in probably 45 minutes if not interrupted.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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OK - I gotta chime in with my Edelbrock fan-boy rhetoric. rofl

 

The Edelbrock Performer 351C-2V intake drops right on - no muss, no fuss. Right on top of that, the Edelbrock 1406 Performer (600 cfm w/electric choke) 4-bbl drops right on top of that, with no modification to the factory accelerator cable necessary - bolt it up and go.

 

One of my friends [who swears by Demon carbs] had an issue with one he'd purchased about 4 years ago - couldn't get it to quit leaking from the bowl. Tried to get the Demon folks to honor their warranty, and they kept either blowing him off, or sending his carb back without having been worked on (saying it had been repaired or couldn't find anything wrong with it). He switched to an Edelbrock - and is much happier now.

 

I recently rebuilt a Holley 750 4-bbl for a friend of mine (with an actual Holley rebuild kit), before I took it apart to being the process, noticed the varnish build-up on the housing immediately below the seals where the bowl adapters had leaked (granted, it had been sitting on the car for at least 15 years since the last rebuild - hint... hint...).

 

Edelbrocks don't leak, since there are no gaskets below the top cover. The only issues I've ever really seen are an occasional stuck needle valve when you leave it sitting too long and try to run that bad gas (read - varnish-grade fuel) through it (which is usually overcome by tapping on the top cover or removing it to unstick the needle valve if necessary).

 

Just my two pennies. :whistling: :cool:

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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OK - I gotta chime in with my Edelbrock fan-boy rhetoric. rofl

 

The Edelbrock Performer 351C-2V intake drops right on - no muss, no fuss. Right on top of that, the Edelbrock 1406 Performer (600 cfm w/electric choke) 4-bbl drops right on top of that, with no modification to the factory accelerator cable necessary - bolt it up and go.

 

One of my friend who swears by Demon carbs had an issue with one he'd purchased about 4 years ago - couldn't get it to quit leaking from the bowl. Tried to get the Demon folks to honor their warranty, and they kept either blowing him off, or sending his carb back without having been worked on (saying it had been repaired or couldn't find anything wrong with it). He switched to an Edelbrock - and is much happier now.

 

I recently rebuilt a Holley 750 4-bbl for a friend of mine (with an actual Holley rebuild kit), before I took it apart to being the process, noticed the varnish build-up on the housing immediately below the seals where the bowl adapters had leaked (granted, it had been sitting on the car for at least 15 years since the last rebuild - hint... hint...).

 

Edelbrocks don't leak, since there are no gaskets below the top cover. The only issues I've ever really seen are an occasional stuck needle valve when you leave it sitting too long and try to run that bad gas (read - varnish-grade fuel) through it (which is usually overcome by tapping on the top cover or removing it to unstick the needle valve if necessary).

 

Just my two pennies. :whistling: :cool:

 

This sounds like the easiest set up for me. I am not a big time mechanic, but have the time and location to do it. I am looking for the option that will require the least amount of "modification" as I really am just learning this process. I'll look for a good write up. I can follow diretions pretty easily and I am not afraid to tear into it.

73 H Code Convertible

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This sounds like the easiest set up for me. I am not a big time mechanic, but have the time and location to do it. I am looking for the option that will require the least amount of "modification" as I really am just learning this process. I'll look for a good write up. I can follow diretions pretty easily and I am not afraid to tear into it.

 

With your attitude and willingness you've already got 50% of the project done. ::thumb::

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Edelbrock carbs look great and are easy to tune so they are my choice as well.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Sounds like you just need a minor rebuild to fix carb problem,sounds like the needle and seat just need replacing .

2zdx09d.png

Yea,Tho i cruise through the valley of the shadow of rice,I will fear no Turbo,For Torque art with me.Thy rods and crankshaft,they comfort me. :D Robert [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=357]Visit My Garage[/button]

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.

quick fuel carbs look way awsomer and are even easier to tune.

 

qftp850-ct.jpg

 

Dude,

 

That's pretty much just a Holley with the Iron Man treatment ("While you're at it, throw on some Hot Rod Red.") :whistling:

Eric

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Sounds like you just need a minor rebuild to fix carb problem,sounds like the needle and seat just need replacing .

 

He's probably right, you know. :cool:

 

True, But if I am pulling the carb anyway, seems sad not to slap a new intake and carb to give it a little more pickup off the line. Again, I am not unhappy with the current carb, just seems fairly inexpensive and easy to slightly upgrade it. I know without out a new Cam and Headers, I won't be getting the full benefit, but some is better than none.

 

I guess on the flip side, with just rebuilding, I keep it all original.

73 H Code Convertible

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  • 1 month later...

Sounds like you just need a minor rebuild to fix carb problem,sounds like the needle and seat just need replacing .

 

He's probably right, you know. :cool:

 

True, But if I am pulling the carb anyway, seems sad not to slap a new intake and carb to give it a little more pickup off the line. Again, I am not unhappy with the current carb, just seems fairly inexpensive and easy to slightly upgrade it. I know without out a new Cam and Headers, I won't be getting the full benefit, but some is better than none.

 

I guess on the flip side, with just rebuilding, I keep it all original.

 

Well, back to this. I finally got around to pulling the Carb off to start the rebuild and found a couple of issues with it. At this point, I am not going to proceed with the rebuild. So I guess I'll be ordering an intake and carb and converting her to 4v.

 

I'll bee looking for the write ups on the board and may be posting more questions. Thanks for everyone's help so far!!!!

73 H Code Convertible

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OK - I gotta chime in with my Edelbrock fan-boy rhetoric. rofl

 

The Edelbrock Performer 351C-2V intake drops right on - no muss, no fuss. Right on top of that, the Edelbrock 1406 Performer (600 cfm w/electric choke) 4-bbl drops right on top of that, with no modification to the factory accelerator cable necessary - bolt it up and go.

 

One of my friends [who swears by Demon carbs] had an issue with one he'd purchased about 4 years ago - couldn't get it to quit leaking from the bowl. Tried to get the Demon folks to honor their warranty, and they kept either blowing him off, or sending his carb back without having been worked on (saying it had been repaired or couldn't find anything wrong with it). He switched to an Edelbrock - and is much happier now.

 

I recently rebuilt a Holley 750 4-bbl for a friend of mine (with an actual Holley rebuild kit), before I took it apart to being the process, noticed the varnish build-up on the housing immediately below the seals where the bowl adapters had leaked (granted, it had been sitting on the car for at least 15 years since the last rebuild - hint... hint...).

 

Edelbrocks don't leak, since there are no gaskets below the top cover. The only issues I've ever really seen are an occasional stuck needle valve when you leave it sitting too long and try to run that bad gas (read - varnish-grade fuel) through it (which is usually overcome by tapping on the top cover or removing it to unstick the needle valve if necessary).

 

Just my two pennies. :whistling: :cool:

 

Question regarding this setup. All of the Performer 2750s I am finding specify "Non-EGR" However, my stock manifold appears to have EGR. Will this work?

73 H Code Convertible

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.

you do NOT want an egr intake . . if you buy an intake that has a heat cross over, plug the cross over with the small metal plates provided in some gasket kits.

 

buy a quick fuel sl650vsf carb.

 

buy a holey vacuum secondary spring kit and try lighter springs until you get the best performance.

 

properly curve your distributor timing.

 

if you have a low compression engine, increasing compression will increase power.

.

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