Put up another molasses derust tank

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A couple weeks ago I went to the feed store and got 10 gallons of feed grade molasses to get a small tank going to clean rusty parts over the winter months. As some have read threads on here before about using it but thought I would put up some pics and info.

I just used one of the Brut heavy duty plastic garbage cans and mixed the molasses 9 to one with tap water. If you can use warm or hot water it mixes up better but cold will work just stir it while filling. It cost like $18.00 for 5 gallons and makes 50 gallons. In the future I am going to obtain one of the big plastic chemical containers that has the metal pallet frame and cut the top out so I can do fenders and hoods. The molasses does not take paint or plating off just the rust. That is really good on a hood since there is sealer and dabs of putty between the inner and outer skins that keeps them in place. If you send to acid tank it takes all that sealer and dabs of putty out and you will have a heck of a time keeping the metal in place it will oil can. It is slow as molasses but it costs little and works great and not going to kill you or make your kids grow horns like some of the stuff will.

If you own a 71-73 or any mustang convertible you know that the inside header cover rusts. Our cars have a satin chrome finish on the header and the two locking / sun visor brackets to kill the shine per federal law. So I took one and put in the tank it would not go all the way so it shows you exactly what it will do and I did before and after pics. I also put an exhaust header in and have the before and after pics of that also. I had also put a rusted and corroded under hood light socket in but it got out of the solution and will have to go back in.

I put some old animal traps in and a couple headlight buckets for now. Yes you can blast them but that sometimes warps the panel and the acid tanks are too harsh and dangerous. Standing at a blaster kill my back but I do use for small quick jobs that come up.

I will turn the header trim over and put back in for a couple weeks then take out wash and probably spray some satin clear to stop the rust and put back on. It is a driver car so no big deal it will look better.

The header is just one laying around so will hang on the wall for now.

A molasses tank is a very cheap, clean and safe way to de rust your parts. As it has been said it works great on heads and engine blocks to get all the rust out of the water jacket without getting glass beads or sand all in the engine. There is no effort just washing them off when they come out a pressure washer works great.

David

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Very cool stuff! Thanks for posting. How long did you leave the exhaust manifolds in the solution? Chuck

 
Very cool stuff! Thanks for posting. How long did you leave the exhaust manifolds in the solution? Chuck
A little over two weeks. If you have like magnum 500 wheels with rust on the back it works great then you can spray some silver on the back to stop the rust.

David

 
A couple weeks ago I went to the feed store and got 10 gallons of feed grade molasses to get a small tank going to clean rusty parts over the winter months. As some have read threads on here before about using it but thought I would put up some pics and info.

I just used one of the Brut heavy duty plastic garbage cans and mixed the molasses 9 to one with tap water. If you can use warm or hot water it mixes up better but cold will work just stir it while filling. It cost like $18.00 for 5 gallons and makes 50 gallons. In the future I am going to obtain one of the big plastic chemical containers that has the metal pallet frame and cut the top out so I can do fenders and hoods. The molasses does not take paint or plating off just the rust. That is really good on a hood since there is sealer and dabs of putty between the inner and outer skins that keeps them in place. If you send to acid tank it takes all that sealer and dabs of putty out and you will have a heck of a time keeping the metal in place it will oil can. It is slow as molasses but it costs little and works great and not going to kill you or make your kids grow horns like some of the stuff will.

If you own a 71-73 or any mustang convertible you know that the inside header cover rusts. Our cars have a satin chrome finish on the header and the two locking / sun visor brackets to kill the shine per federal law. So I took one and put in the tank it would not go all the way so it shows you exactly what it will do and I did before and after pics. I also put an exhaust header in and have the before and after pics of that also. I had also put a rusted and corroded under hood light socket in but it got out of the solution and will have to go back in.

I put some old animal traps in and a couple headlight buckets for now. Yes you can blast them but that sometimes warps the panel and the acid tanks are too harsh and dangerous. Standing at a blaster kill my back but I do use for small quick jobs that come up.

I will turn the header trim over and put back in for a couple weeks then take out wash and probably spray some satin clear to stop the rust and put back on. It is a driver car so no big deal it will look better.

The header is just one laying around so will hang on the wall for now.

A molasses tank is a very cheap, clean and safe way to de rust your parts. As it has been said it works great on heads and engine blocks to get all the rust out of the water jacket without getting glass beads or sand all in the engine. There is no effort just washing them off when they come out a pressure washer works great.

David
hi i maybe making this harder than it is is it 9 parts molasses to 1part water or 1 part molasses to 9 parts water

thanks mongos CJ::thumb::

 
No wonder I feel better after eating a couple molasses Christmas cookies this time of year!

 
A couple weeks ago I went to the feed store and got 10 gallons of feed grade molasses to get a small tank going to clean rusty parts over the winter months. As some have read threads on here before about using it but thought I would put up some pics and info.

I just used one of the Brut heavy duty plastic garbage cans and mixed the molasses 9 to one with tap water. If you can use warm or hot water it mixes up better but cold will work just stir it while filling. It cost like $18.00 for 5 gallons and makes 50 gallons. In the future I am going to obtain one of the big plastic chemical containers that has the metal pallet frame and cut the top out so I can do fenders and hoods. The molasses does not take paint or plating off just the rust. That is really good on a hood since there is sealer and dabs of putty between the inner and outer skins that keeps them in place. If you send to acid tank it takes all that sealer and dabs of putty out and you will have a heck of a time keeping the metal in place it will oil can. It is slow as molasses but it costs little and works great and not going to kill you or make your kids grow horns like some of the stuff will.

If you own a 71-73 or any mustang convertible you know that the inside header cover rusts. Our cars have a satin chrome finish on the header and the two locking / sun visor brackets to kill the shine per federal law. So I took one and put in the tank it would not go all the way so it shows you exactly what it will do and I did before and after pics. I also put an exhaust header in and have the before and after pics of that also. I had also put a rusted and corroded under hood light socket in but it got out of the solution and will have to go back in.

I put some old animal traps in and a couple headlight buckets for now. Yes you can blast them but that sometimes warps the panel and the acid tanks are too harsh and dangerous. Standing at a blaster kill my back but I do use for small quick jobs that come up.

I will turn the header trim over and put back in for a couple weeks then take out wash and probably spray some satin clear to stop the rust and put back on. It is a driver car so no big deal it will look better.

The header is just one laying around so will hang on the wall for now.

A molasses tank is a very cheap, clean and safe way to de rust your parts. As it has been said it works great on heads and engine blocks to get all the rust out of the water jacket without getting glass beads or sand all in the engine. There is no effort just washing them off when they come out a pressure washer works great.

David
hi i maybe making this harder than it is is it 9 parts molasses to 1part water or 1 part molasses to 9 parts water

thanks mongos CJ::thumb::
You mix one part molasses to 9 parts water. A 5 gallon container of molasses will give you 50 gallons of diluted material for under $20.00. 5 gallons molasses 45 gallons of water.

David



Are you doing the electrolysis version or just the bath?
No just the molasses. I keep waiting for a bear to show up and turn it over. They came and tore my neighbors bird feeders down.

David

 
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I hear you. When I used to live in Northern WI we used to wait until the garbage truck was 1 or 2 houses away to run it out. Otherwise the bears were tearing it up. Wasn't uncommon to see a black bear just walking down the street.

 
I wonder if that is the basis for Evap-O-Rust? It has the same look but it does work faster than the molasses. I don't think I am going to do a taste test anytime soon

 
I wonder if that is the basis for Evap-O-Rust? It has the same look but it does work faster than the molasses. I don't think I am going to do a taste test anytime soon
Now that is a money making deal buy molasses in bulk tank and rename it to something and make 10 times the cost, lol. Happens every day. Did you know an original bottle of Lysol was like the size of a spice bottle, not diluted. They found out they could sell water and make more money so they use big bottles with lots of water added. We are all suckers in one way or another.

David

 
It's the same principle as evap-o-rust. It's called a chelating agent.

FYI, I have used my tank now for the past 3 months or so and it will soften and remove paint. Thought you might want to know in case you were trying to save a painted surface for some reason.

Also, if you plan to work with this stuff, get some long rubber gloves and don't let the stuff get on your skin. It stinks like a very strong swiss cheese and doesn't wash off easily.

 
It's the same principle as evap-o-rust. It's called a chelating agent.

FYI, I have used my tank now for the past 3 months or so and it will soften and remove paint. Thought you might want to know in case you were trying to save a painted surface for some reason.

Also, if you plan to work with this stuff, get some long rubber gloves and don't let the stuff get on your skin. It stinks like a very strong swiss cheese and doesn't wash off easily.
Not new to this I am 67 just trying to spread the word that you don't have to spend lots of money or use the hazardous materials.

Glad you are using it also.

David

 
It's the same principle as evap-o-rust. It's called a chelating agent.

FYI, I have used my tank now for the past 3 months or so and it will soften and remove paint. Thought you might want to know in case you were trying to save a painted surface for some reason.

Also, if you plan to work with this stuff, get some long rubber gloves and don't let the stuff get on your skin. It stinks like a very strong swiss cheese and doesn't wash off easily.
Not new to this I am 67 just trying to spread the word that you don't have to spend lots of money or use the hazardous materials.

Glad you are using it also.

David
Yes, you had some good pointers on the post I made about this a few weeks ago..or maybe that was about the blast cabinet in the background on one of my pictures....

I was more pointing out to the folks that might want to try it themselves...didn't mean to imply otherwise.

 
I do have to give props to Evap-O-Rust. It is biodegradable non toxic etc. and it works great

 
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