longer wheel studs

Hi all,

Trying to get back to work on the Mustang projects. Need help with longer wheel studs.

I am putting alloy wheels that take acorn style lug nuts on my 71 Vert, and due to the thicker mounting pad on the wheel, I would like to put in longer wheel studs. The car has front disc brakes and an 8" rear end.

Looking around I find studs for the rear should have a .625 knurl, these seem easy to find in a longer length stud (ARP 100-7703). For the front, I have found that a 71 with front discs also take a .625 knurl with the longer shouldered area at the knurl. Looking at ARP, they only have that 1/2-20 w/.625 knurl, but it doesn't have the longer shoulder for a rotor (again ARP 100-7703). The one ARP calls out for Ford w front disc, 100-7707, has the longer knurled area but a knurl diameter of .618, which is too small.

Finally, according to what I was able to sleuth out on the 'Net, the knurl size for front rotors changed in 72 and went to .622 diameter. Still too big for the .618 diameter knurl.

What have others done for front and rear extended or longer wheel studs?

Thank you for any input,

Tom

Lot's of people looking, anyone have any info or insight on this? I can drive the car gingerly as it is, but really want to get the wheel stud issue sorted so I can enjoy it.

Someone must have installed longer or extended wheel studs on their 71-73 Mustang, either for road or drag racing?

I'm still looking into a solution for myself. I may have mentioned that I installed a set of Cragar S/Ss on my '71, and they have quite a thick mounting surface for the lug nuts as well. When I spun-on the standard acorn nuts, I noticed that instead of having the lugs/studs poking through the ends of the nuts (as with my original thinner stamped steel rims), the nuts now stick out beyond the lugs by a thread or two. The lug nuts themselves are only about 1/2" thick, and it seems like I only have about 7/16" worth of threads engaged. Maybe that's enough - I don't know.

Talking with a one of my most knowledgeable and trusted parts guys (who happens to be an old Ford guy, racer, and has forgotten WAY more about those things than I'll ever know). He said it's fine, with regards to the stock stud length and difference between the wheel mounting surfaces.

I had asked because I noticed the difference prior to installing some new Cragar "closed" nuts instead of the ugly ol' acorns. For my own peace of mind, though, I'm with you: I want some more threads engaged, and the only way to do that is with longer lugs/studs.

i had the same problem. i ended up going to the auto parts store \mashine shop we found some that had the right nerll but not enfough thred so thay gave each stud longer threds, i went through this and it was a pain but i got it done . but i had drums and the studs where swedged in and cost 5.50$ per stud to be swedged in and out

A rule of thumb used in DoD is to have threads sticking out beyond the nut equivalent to the diameter of the bolt. This is probably over-kill, though.

The style on the RH side of page is what I've had on my '72 for the last 25 years or so.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/wheels/wl150.htm

Standard Cragar S/Ss use elongated holes and those kinds of lug nuts (like the ones basstrix speaks of, and one size fits many: 5x4.5-5.5) - the lug nuts will align the center of the wheel on the hubs. I went with "Direct Drill" series wheels because the standard mounting method sounded kind of hinky to me (even though I know it works... and has for years).

Just felt more comfortable with the Direct Drill wheels.

The Cragar nuts I have for the wheels are about 2.5" long - they prevent the sockets from scratching the wheels when working the lug nuts - it's pretty tight in there.

basstrix,

The shanked lugs with washers would solve the issues, but I need acorn style nuts. Thank you tho.

OK, all of this info is for lug studs for factory front disk hubs. Rears should be easy (he said).

Looking really deeply at Dorman and the numbers they have, I need a .625 diam knurl on a 1.0 inch long shoulder. With an overall under-head length of 1.938, this is a Dorman # 610-149.

In order to have best-practice fastening, the overall under-head length needs to be about 2.25" long minimum to fill the lug nut and protrude some. So armed with these numbers, I looked at 1/2-20, .625 knurl studs on Summit. and found a Dorman # 610-277, which is for Dodge vehicles. Has the 1/2-20, .625 knurl, shoulder length is short at .938, but the overall under-head length is 2.25". May be a fit. Any other lengths with the correct knurl diameter have too short a shoulder.

The search continues, but may have a solution.

Thank you for any input,

Tom

OK, the front suspension on my Vert is tired so all of it is getting gone thru. While there, discovered that my front disc brakes can use a service, so that's getting opened up, which means, WTH, gonna try out longer wheel studs. I have one unit of the Dorman #610-277 on order, if it does what I need, I'll buy the remaining 9 and finish the front studs with a new and improved longer length. Would like the diam-extended-beyond-lugnut as Midlife suggested, but I also want to get something better than what I currently have.

All of this is known as "project creep" at work, or "While I'm There Syndrome" in the auto hobbyist world.

Updates when they happen.

Tom

Cool - thanks for the update, Tom! ::thumb::

If you could post up some pics when you get a chance (maybe a standard lug next to the new longer one, and one with how much farther the new one sticks out through the lugnut) that would be awesome.

I still need to find the whole set of Cragar nuts I ordered... but it wouldn't take much to swap out a new set of lugs.

All of this is known as "project creep" at work, or "While I'm There Syndrome" in the auto hobbyist world.

Updates when they happen.

Tom

Click to expand...

HaHa....yep...or Better is the enemy of good enough (i.e. meets spec).

when i replaced the rear studs with longer ones the kneril was slighty smaller then what it called for so i has to spot weld the studs to the axel so the would not spin whe removing the lug nuts

OK, the front suspension on my Vert is tired so all of it is getting gone thru. While there, discovered that my front disc brakes can use a service, so that's getting opened up, which means, WTH, gonna try out longer wheel studs. I have one unit of the Dorman #610-277 on order, if it does what I need, I'll buy the remaining 9 and finish the front studs with a new and improved longer length. Would like the diam-extended-beyond-lugnut as Midlife suggested, but I also want to get something better than what I currently have.

All of this is known as "project creep" at work, or "While I'm There Syndrome" in the auto hobbyist world.

Updates when they happen.

Tom

Click to expand...

I am looking for longer studs for my front wheels with original disc brakes. In my search i found this thread!
Did the Dorman studs work!? Any advice? tnks!!

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Hi all,

i'm sorry I never replied to the above query. Life and everything that has to do with it so often gets in the way.

I was never able to find any longer stud that is a press in, one shot deal. All require some sort of machining or handling, and I haven't the time for that.

So I have just put the wheels onto the car, and I'm driving it. It goes to and from work, about 10 miles on a day i drive it, 3-4 weeks out of the year. Not hammering it, so I am (possibly unwisely) not worrying about it. I have checked them from time to time to make sure they are tightened.

When I get thru some other auto projects (I have too damn many of them), i'll revisit this and maybe come up with another solution.

Best regards,

Tom

Hi Tom! Dont worry. I did solve the problem by using ARP 100-7707 on my 71 with original front discs. They were 1/2 inch too long so I had to cut them.

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