2V carb

Hello,

Interested in an easy step by step guide to basic ignition timing and carb adjustments. I know the basics and have used a vacumn gauge to adjust the timing to the highest steady reading, did the same for the carb mixture screws. Seems to run well with no "pinging". I am having a problem with adjusting the choke and would like any advice on that. Started the car this am after it sat outside all night ...app. 30 degress. Started but ran very poorly, kept stalling, flooded etc. I finally had to take off the air cleaner lid and put a screw driver in the carb to hold open the flap app. 1/3 an inch. Once I did this the car started right up and ran fine even after I removed the screwdriver. So I am guessing I need to adjust/turn the black plastic cap in the "leaner" direction(?) Also. there is an electrical plug attached to the outside of the choke ... I believe it is fed by the alternator. I have installed a one wire alternator and removed the external voltage regulator. Would this have an impact on the power to the choke? Otherwise the alternator works fine and I did hook up a lead so the alternator "idiot" still functions. Any advice would be great ... many thanks.

The pwr normally comes from the voltage regulator. Since you have a 1 wire alternator you have disabled the electric choke. You can run a wire from a +12v switched ignition source so that it has power only when motor is running and it will work again. If you connect it to a source that always has 12v you will drain the battery. Once you have done this start the car and when the motor is warmed the choke should be fully open, if not adjust it till it is open. Do not connect it to the + side of the coil to get the 12v as it will draw too much power and you'll have ignition issues.

It also sounds like the vacuum pull-off either needs adjusting or is not working. As soon as the engine starts the pull-off will open the choke a quarter of an inch, or so, so it doesn't flood while waiting for it to warm up.

It also sounds like the vacuum pull-off either needs adjusting or is not working. As soon as the engine starts the pull-off will open the choke a quarter of an inch, or so, so it doesn't flood while waiting for it to warm up.

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Thanks for both posts ... hopefully I will get to it today.

It also sounds like the vacuum pull-off either needs adjusting or is not working. As soon as the engine starts the pull-off will open the choke a quarter of an inch, or so, so it doesn't flood while waiting for it to warm up.

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Thanks for both posts ... hopefully I will get to it today.

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Additional follow up ... the lead I ran from the back of the one wire alternator to the existing lead for the alternator "idiot" light in the dash. Would that work for the switched source for the choke ? I believe I connected to the red/grn original wire for the idiot light and it does work. Thanks

Does it have 12v all the time? I am thinking it does but I don't know your setup.

Does it have 12v all the time? I am thinking it does but I don't know your setup.

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Not sure ... For some reason I think it is only hot when on or running but I can check that later. Any place else I could get switched power under the hood. Thanks

Did you use a 3G alternator? If so, it has a stator wire, which is the white/black wire that comes out of the large 3-wire connector and connects to a single wire terminal between the main power connection and the 3-wire connector. The stator wire is what Ford used for connecting the electric choke. This way the only time the choke will open is when the car is actually running. Connecting the choke to a switched 12 volt wire will energize the choke whenever the switch is on, which may cause the choke to open sooner than desired.

Does it have 12v all the time? I am thinking it does but I don't know your setup.

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Not sure ... For some reason I think it is only hot when on or running but I can check that later. Any place else I could get switched power under the hood. Thanks

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Is it connected by a single cable from the alt to the battery or + side of the starter solenoid? No other wires then it's hot all the time. You mentioned in your first post one wire.

Edit: Does your carb have the idle solenoid? That gets 12v when the ignition is on and you can tap into that for the choke.

Additional follow up ... the lead I ran from the back of the one wire alternator to the existing lead for the alternator "idiot" light in the dash. Would that work for the switched source for the choke ? I believe I connected to the red/grn original wire for the idiot light and it does work. Thanks

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I wouldn't use the idiot light ("I") circuit. It is fed from the ignition switch through the idiot light and a bypass resistor and the additional load will likely reduce the voltage to the alternator too much.

Does it have 12v all the time? I am thinking it does but I don't know your setup.

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Not sure ... For some reason I think it is only hot when on or running but I can check that later. Any place else I could get switched power under the hood. Thanks

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Is it connected by a single cable from the alt to the battery or + side of the starter solenoid? No other wires then it's hot all the time. You mentioned in your first post one wire.

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Not a 3 G. If memory is right ... One wire to + side of starter solenoid... Ground to inner wheel well. There is a 2 blade connector on back of alternator .... One blade goes to red/grn wire to activate alternator idiot light.

In that case, the stator wiring is probably hidden inside the case, and your only option will be a switched 12 volt source.

I updated my previous post with a possible source for 12v in the engine compartment. The other option is on the fuse block some has a center stud with a nut that has 12v switched power. you can use that to provide power to the choke.

I updated my previous post with a possible source for 12v in the engine compartment. The other option is on the fuse block some has a center stud with a nut that has 12v switched power. you can use that to provide power to the choke.

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Hello,

Want to make sure I understand ... in my 73 the fuse block is under the dash near the steering column. There is a bolt that goes straight thru the center of the fuse block and secures it to another surface which has a multi pin plug (?). When you loosen the bolt you can unplug the fuse block from the plug and kill power to the car. Are you saying that the large center bolt I am describing is also 12v switched power ? Thanks

Does it have 12v all the time? I am thinking it does but I don't know your setup.

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Not sure ... For some reason I think it is only hot when on or running but I can check that later. Any place else I could get switched power under the hood. Thanks

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Is it connected by a single cable from the alt to the battery or + side of the starter solenoid? No other wires then it's hot all the time. You mentioned in your first post one wire.

Edit: Does your carb have the idle solenoid? That gets 12v when the ignition is on and you can tap into that for the choke.

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It does have the solenoid and it may be dead also as I have not seen it move or energize, but I will check it for voltage. Thanks

I went out and took a picture so you can see my setup. You can see the center bolt that holds up the fuse panel. In the center of the picture you see a threaded stud with 3 sets of wires coming from it. That is 12v switched power. Not sure if all cars came with this but mine came that way. This is a high def pic so if you click on it it will be full screen and larger.

I went out and took a picture so you can see my setup. You can see the center bolt that holds up the fuse panel. In the center of the picture you see a threaded stud with 3 sets of wires coming from it. That is 12v switched power. Not sure if all cars came with this but mine came that way. This is a high def pic so if you click on it it will be full screen and larger.

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thanks very much for the effort and photo ... looks very similar to mine ...I will check it out tomorrow and let you know. Thanks again !

That is the accessory post that came on some, but not all cars. They are super hard to find, but I have seen them on west coast cougar's website. I believe it is meant to be 12v switched power. Once it is installed the fuse running across the middle of the box is needed to supply fused power to the accessory post.

No, it is not the big center bolt: that is mechanical in nature only. The diagonal area on the fuse block may have a fuse for the ACC extended buss bar, but not all Mustangs have them. I manufacture them and can provide them for $15 plus about $3 for shipping. It comes with a three-pin female bullet connector.

Another option is to use the carb solenoid line for your choke: it is only on when the key is in RUN position. Another possibility is if you have a female bullet connector on the voltage regulator for the green/red wire. Again, not all Mustangs appear to have this feature. But...since you have removed the VR with your aftermarket 1 wire alternator, that wire may still be available for use, whether it has a female bullet or not.

No, it is not the big center bolt: that is mechanical in nature only. The diagonal area on the fuse block may have a fuse for the ACC extended buss bar, but not all Mustangs have them. I manufacture them and can provide them for $15 plus about $3 for shipping. It comes with a three-pin female bullet connector.

Another option is to use the carb solenoid line for your choke: it is only on when the key is in RUN position. Another possibility is if you have a female bullet connector on the voltage regulator for the green/red wire. Again, not all Mustangs appear to have this feature. But...since you have removed the VR with your aftermarket 1 wire alternator, that wire may still be available for use, whether it has a female bullet or not.

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Thanks very much !

No, it is not the big center bolt: that is mechanical in nature only. The diagonal area on the fuse block may have a fuse for the ACC extended buss bar, but not all Mustangs have them. I manufacture them and can provide them for $15 plus about $3 for shipping. It comes with a three-pin female bullet connector.

Another option is to use the carb solenoid line for your choke: it is only on when the key is in RUN position. Another possibility is if you have a female bullet connector on the voltage regulator for the green/red wire. Again, not all Mustangs appear to have this feature. But...since you have removed the VR with your aftermarket 1 wire alternator, that wire may still be available for use, whether it has a female bullet or not.

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Thanks very much !

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Spent a lot of time with the car today. Here is what I found. Lead to electric choke is not getting power. Lead to throttle solenoid was hot when I first checked and then went dead for no apparent reason ... all fuses are good. Checked the plug and also cut the plug off to make sure issue was not in plug ... bare wire still dead. Traced wire back to first multi plug connector about two feet upstream ... pulled the plugs apart cleaned ...reconnected no improvement.

I checked various +12v locations for switched power with the following results, did not use volt meter but bulb probe just to indicate power. + side of coil worked but I am getting mixed advice as to whether I should use this for power.

Checked the green/red wire I hooked into for the alternator "idiot" light. It was hot but the bulb was very dim, so I am not sure it would provide adequate power.

Small lug coming off of starter relay that has a green wired cap pushed onto it ... this was positive.

I do have the switched lug on the fuse block and it is positive.

So here are my questions :

1. Why would the solenoid wire be hot and then go dead ?

2. Is connecting to the coil a problem ?

3. Overall what is the safest/easiest location to hook into ?

Of interest, the solenoid for the throttle lever I believe is no good. I put 12V directly from the battery to energize it ... nothing happened ... the plunger did not move at all. Made sure it was grounded .. made no difference. Also, easiest way to removed fuses from fuse block ?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated ... as always thanks