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NEW GLASS INSTALL


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So here we go How to install new glass,

I figured I'd start with the hardest part which I think is the quarter glass since you need to remove the trim and reinstall on the new glass. I used a heat gun on high to heat up the chrome trim piece slowly pulled from the bottom towards the top and no problem got that off fairly easy. The big kabash is the adhesive or rubber filler strip ford used to secure the trim to the window. I was able to get it off but its pretty shot. I also marked it's location from the top edge before removal. I used a thin metal spreader to loosen it from the glass. You have to go real slow. I can reuse it but I'm going to try and source something new from my local glass place. Any one have any Ideas on that ? More to come.

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LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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I think this is what you're looking for. A local glass shop should have it. The last time I needed some I got it locally.

https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_seal_strip_glass_channel_1_16_inch-141849-2940.html

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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I think this is what you're looking for. A local glass shop should have it. The last time I needed some I got it locally.

https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_seal_strip_glass_channel_1_16_inch-141849-2940.html

That looks like the baby ! Thanks Don ! I'm going to try local first

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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Going to back track a bit since i started with the glass out so best to explain how to remove it..Really quite simple. The hardest part is removal of the interior pieces. To do the side glass (quarter window and door) the following needs to be removed.

Rear seat

Rear interior side panels

Door panels

Theres a few associated plastic trim pieces that need to go too in order to remove the rear side panels(rear side panel to roof filler)

 

I should mention at the bare minimum the door and qtr window belt line fuzzies should be replaced in order to insure a good fit and the most important not scratching you new glass when you roll the windows up and down..Bad fuzzies are a major contributor to that problem. I will detail installing those when I get to that point. I decided to also replace the roof rail weatherstrip, I think they also go hand in hand with the side glass replacement since they provide the seal to the glass at the roof line and we don't want to be adjusting the glass twice.

Removing the door glass entails taking off the 2 large round plastic stops

Removing the 2 upper adjusting blocks and finally the 3 nuts that hold the glass to regulator plate. thats it. It might be wise to have a helper or place a block of wood in the door under the glass so it doesn't fall and shatter. with all that done you can wiggle and slide the glass up and out.

The qtr window is super simple 3 bolts that attach it to the interior mount slide it down a bit tilt the top forward then slide out towards the front.

I should also mention now is the time to address any rattles or sound issues with the door. You can test by tapping the door and listening. A known problem is the rod that runs from the latch to the interior handle pull. Another simple one is not having a water shield (the water proof paper that covers the door protects the door panel) There is also one for the rear side panel. A very simple fix for the rod is some self stick foam rubber is a few places to stop it from rattling. I took it one step further installed sound proofing in the door--made a foam sleeve for the latch rod to ride in--made a sound proof water shield from ensolite. The pictures should be self explanatory.

 

 

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LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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Nice review Scott!!!

 

"Removing the 2 upper adjusting blocks and finally the 3 nuts that hold the glass to regulator plate."

I just want to add that for 73 the front windows are held in by rivets instead of nuts and bolts. I had to get the nuts from Don when I put my windows back on. This was for the Mach, not sure if all 73's were that way. You have to use a grinder to remove the heads of the 3 rivets. Other than that the rest the others windows are the same for all models.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Nice review Scott!!!

 

"Removing the 2 upper adjusting blocks and finally the 3 nuts that hold the glass to regulator plate."

I just want to add that for 73 the front windows are held in by rivets instead of nuts and bolts. I had to get the nuts from Don when I put my windows back on. This was for the Mach, not sure if all 73's were that way. You have to use a grinder to remove the heads of the 3 rivets. Other than that the rest the others windows are the same for all models.

 

Yes. all 73's had the riveted glass

Don

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thanks guys good to know about the 73's having riveted glass all this work being done is on a 72.

So now it's time to get the new fuzzies or window felts installed.

There's one screw at the latch side at the edge of the felt that needs to be removed then it's a simple matter to slip a plastic spreader in between the felt and door skin pull it away just enough to locate the clip. Push in from the top with a small screw driver to release the clip. Be careful not to BEND the attaching point on the door, if you don't release the clip and just pull man handle it you can bend the attachment point and if that happens the new felt won't sit flush to the door.

You can see the size of the old felt--The new door felts are not as wide as the old one so they make a supplemental kit which needs to be ordered when getting your parts. It just another felt without the clips. You can see in the picture where it installs pretty much under the top one with about a 1/4' space between the two. I just tacked mine in place with my hot glue gun.

Your going to need some small screws to hold it in place. Just pre drill where you have access then install the screws. On the rear quarter felt theres also a screw that needs to be removed first then the procedure is the same for removal. Before installing the new felts just sight them down to make sure that the edge that sits against the door is straight they may need some massaging to achieve this. When installing it also helps to have a small square to push the new clips all the way in I used the end of a detail brush. You will hear a "click" once the clip is seated fully. Drill your holes for the 2 screws removed..Install the screws and your done.

 

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LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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A few shots of the lower supplemental felt installed and the drill bit you need.

Also how I installed new felt on the inner blocks

 

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LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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Looks Great Scott.

Iyman

1972 Mustang Convertable :run_horse:  [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=1507]Visit My Garage[/button]

Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Facebook Page [button=https://www.facebook.com/MUSTANGCCNE]MCCNE FB Page[/button]

 

Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Web Page [button=http://www.mccne.com/]MCCNE Web Page[/button]

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I noticed after looking at the pictures of your regulators that mine are missing what seems to be a crucial piece in keeping the windows stable while they are rolled up. Where the regulator meets the guide rod that is vertical inside the door, you seem to have some factory "shims", mine is just a large hole... This explains why mine always rattled and never stayed in place!

1_12_09_14_10_32_45.png

 

- Nik

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Going into a little more detail on the rear quarter glass, It's really the hardest part since you need to remove the vertical trim from the old glass and install on the new one.

Your going to need whats called "seal strip" it's the black rubber that holds the trim to the glass. I couldn't source any local so ended up getting from N.P.D. part#214A10-1 (Thanks Member Don C for supplying the source for that) It's also a good Idea to change out the vertical weatherstrip at this time. That came from O.M.S

Your going to want to remove the old weatherstrip first. If you bend up the 2 tabs slightly at the bottom retainer that hold the lower part in place then pull out with some needle nose pliers. It's then a simple matter to pull slide out the strip from the top(see picture)

Next is removing the trim itself, BEFORE DOING THAT MAKE SURE TO MEASURE MARK HOW FAR DOWN THE TOP EDGE OF THE TRIM SITS FROM THE TOP EDGE OF THE GLASS.

Using a heat gun on high warm up the trim on both sides. Once warm, start at the bottom and pull the trim off the glass (wear gloves)

Next using the old seal strip as a guide (length & location) install a section of new seal strip on the new glass it wraps around the front edge. It helps to have a set of extra hands at this point to hold the new glass and seal strip while you install the trim onto the new glass. Mark the location using the measurements you took prior to removal from the old glass of the trim on the new glass. Using some glass cleaner for lubrication spray the trim channel and the seal strip. Using a piece of paint stick in the channel of the trim and a small hammer lightly tap the trim down over the seal strip(tap wood ). Make sure to use liberal amounts of glass cleaner as needed. Once installed you can then install the weatherstrip. Trim any excess seal strip with a razor blade. Use lots of glass cleaner on the weatherstrip and the channel it slides into. Slide the weatherstrip in from the top, Once in, put the lower weatherstrip tab in place and bend the 2 retainer tabs on the lower part of the trim back in place go easy on the tabs. The pictures should be self explanatory.

 

 

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LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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Installed looking sweet ! (Didn't do the final adjustment yet)

For any one who feels not confident enough to tackle this job (risk of cracking the glass) I'd be more than happy to do it for you just pm me.

 

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LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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Those look great!

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Those look great!

Thanks ::thumb:: Lots of work to do it right

Scratched glass is a pet peeve of mine there is nothing like new glass it takes the car to the next level HUGE DIFFERENCE

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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  • 9 months later...

Scott, how many of the kits (N.P.D. part#214A10-1) do you need to do the qtr windows? Ryan

1973 Mach 1, Porsche Guards Red, 429/C6

1972 Mach 1, Grabber Blue, 302/C4, currently under construction

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Scott, how many of the kits (N.P.D. part#214A10-1) do you need to do the qtr windows? Ryan

It comes with 4ft so you should only need 4ft. I'll let Scott comment. I will be doing my new glass next week.

- Jim

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Scott, how many of the kits (N.P.D. part#214A10-1) do you need to do the qtr windows? Ryan

It comes with 4ft so you should only need 4ft. I'll let Scott comment. I will be doing my new glass next week.

Ok. Thanks for the reply. This will be on my list for things to do soon also. Ryan

1973 Mach 1, Porsche Guards Red, 429/C6

1972 Mach 1, Grabber Blue, 302/C4, currently under construction

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Scott

Did you use any adhesive on the new seal strip that the stainless steel trim goes over or does it just stay in place with compression?

No adhesive required yes it will stay in place

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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Scott, how many of the kits (N.P.D. part#214A10-1) do you need to do the qtr windows? Ryan

It comes with 4ft so you should only need 4ft. I'll let Scott comment. I will be doing my new glass next week.

Ok. Thanks for the reply. This will be on my list for things to do soon also. Ryan

lollerz

Ryan 1 kit is more than enough

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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A few shots of the lower supplemental felt installed and the drill bit you need.

Also how I installed new felt on the inner blocks

 

 

Scott

Where did you get that really long drill bit? Is it a drill bit on some kind of extension?

- Jim

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A few shots of the lower supplemental felt installed and the drill bit you need.

Also how I installed new felt on the inner blocks

 

 

Scott

Where did you get that really long drill bit? Is it a drill bit on some kind of extension?

 

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-BL2731-16-Inch-Black-12-Inch/dp/B003NFJZ46/ref=lp_256270011_1_10?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1481246305&sr=1-10

 

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-BL2735-8-Inch-Black-12-Inch/dp/B001AHSVGM/ref=lp_256270011_1_15?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1481246305&sr=1-15

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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