Subframe Connectors

Greetings, I have a 71 Mustang with a 351C 2V, C6 trans, limited slip 3.00, 270HR Roller Retrofit, Performer intake, Black Diamond headers, 670 Holley Carb. I recently picked up a new set of tires and rims for it, the tires will provide much more traction than the previous ones. So my question is, at what point should I be considering Subframe connectors?

Thank you

What model? If it is a vert, you should get them asap, though in my opinion you should get them regardless, they really help stiffen the chassis

tinman makes a nice unit, I put them on mine and they really stiffened thins up

http://www.tinmanfabrication.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=58/prd58.htm

I guess I should have mentioned that. It is a coupe. I'll add some pics to my profile tonight.

Thanks for the responses. I was hoping to get away without them for one more year and put them in next years budget. oh well. Was going to lower it this year but that can wait.

Here is a crappy pic with the Foose legends and BFG Comp 2 tires. Until I get the car cleaned up. Lol

Sweet ride! You can get away without them, but it would be better to put them on now if anything as a pre-caution

Lowering isn't too difficult and your car looks good, but would look much better dropped a couple of inches. In the back 2" lowering blocks would work fine and up front a set of 1.5 lowering springs would go in easily. If you can go the work yourself, that is only about 200.00 in parts.

I got the plans for the TinMan sub frame connectors so I can build them myself. My car has been totally restored, so I want to install these to stiffen up the chassis.

The windshield cracked on me last summer after I did a pretty good brake torque. It cracked from the top straight down on the passenger side. I think the car was still "settling in" after the restoration, just a guess, but I can't figure out anything else that could have done this. It was not hit by anything, so that must have done it.

This is a good preventive measure against paint cracks too. This also gives a good spot to jack one side of car up if needed.

As I currently go through the restoration of my '71 429 vert, this question has come [/i]to mind also. As much as I am looking to keep the car original, I have given this one upgrade serious consideration, given the torque available to the rear wheels on my car. As I get closer to completion, will make this important decision.

I put the Global West SFC's in my car last year, and WOW! While it does offer up a stiffer ride, I also noticed better handling, less noise during jacking it up "less flex", and the steering seemed more sensitive. Not to mention it's not a difficult thing to do!!

Lowering isn't too difficult and your car looks good, but would look much better dropped a couple of inches. In the back 2" lowering blocks would work fine and up front a set of 1.5 lowering springs would go in easily. If you can go the work yourself, that is only about 200.00 in parts.

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So far I have only been able to find 1" lowering coils for the front. I'm worried that may not be enough as I am not sure how old the coils are on it and they may have drooped that much already. Do you have any links to further drop coils or even drop spindles?

Oh and I'm in Canada, so after shipping, exchange and duty everything is 50-60% more. Lol. I had almost completed everything before it got so bad, so I consider myself lucky enough.

Thanks for the complements on the car guys.

As I currently go through the restoration of my '71 429 vert, this question has come [/i]to mind also. As much as I am looking to keep the car original, I have given this one upgrade serious consideration, given the torque available to the rear wheels on my car. As I get closer to completion, will make this important decision.

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Just remove them back to original if you ever let it go.

As I currently go through the restoration of my '71 429 vert, this question has come [/i]to mind also. As much as I am looking to keep the car original, I have given this one upgrade serious consideration, given the torque available to the rear wheels on my car. As I get closer to completion, will make this important decision.

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Just remove them back to original if you ever let it go.

As I currently go through the restoration of my '71 429 vert, this question has come [/i]to mind also. As much as I am looking to keep the car original, I have given this one upgrade serious consideration, given the torque available to the rear wheels on my car. As I get closer to completion, will make this important decision.

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Just remove them back to original if you ever let it go.

http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-2778-mustang-64-66-fordmercury-63-66-1-lowering-performance-handling-coil-springs.aspx

These work nicely, based upon appearance your current front springs are not sagging, but even so, their rate will be affected by age. Use the 1/4 spring seat and you'll be close. If you want more drop, you can cut them, but they tend to settle a bit after the installation, so I would not cut them initially.

In back I said you could use lowering blocks . . . I probably should not suggest that without knowing the condition of your rear springs. If they are worn and weak, new leafs would be a better choice and the drop can be built into them.

I believe you can get Canadian made springs as well.

http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-2778-mustang-64-66-fordmercury-63-66-1-lowering-performance-handling-coil-springs.aspx

These work nicely, based upon appearance your current front springs are not sagging, but even so, their rate will be affected by age. Use the 1/4 spring seat and you'll be close. If you want more drop, you can cut them, but they tend to settle a bit after the installation, so I would not cut them initially.

In back I said you could use lowering blocks . . . I probably should not suggest that without knowing the condition of your rear springs. If they are worn and weak, new leafs would be a better choice and the drop can be built into them.

I believe you can get Canadian made springs as well.

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Thank you. Awesome info. I'm not around anyone that has a 71-73 mustang so I can never see what a stock one looks like for ride height. The tires added an inch of height which was really nice because when I lower it I can keep the stock ground clearance (lots of pot holes) and still close up the wheel ga. Yes it does have new leafs in the back with adjustable shackles. I can't really remember what leafs I went with but I think 4 leaf stock height.

What is this 1/4 spring? Sorry, this is my first muscle car and so far everything has been self taught or from forums like this.

I will just chime in and say the subframe connectors are a really good upgrade. I put them on my convertible over 25 years ago. As was mentioned, on a convertible they are almost a 'must do'. It's the first thing I recommend to convertible owners.

Also look at doing traction bars for the rear. This totally eliminated wheel hop for me both accellerating and braking. The car is just much more predicatable.

(Click on 'my garage' to see pics, you have to click on the different tabs)

it is the spacer paf that sits on the spring, it is an isolator. not a spring

it is the spacer paf that sits on the spring, it is an isolator. not a spring

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Ok, I understand. I would imagine that it wouldn't have the 1" lift one. So it should have the 1/4" (I spent like an hour googling it today. Lol)

Does anyone have some pictures of how the TinMan subframe connectors lookes like installed? Are they sitting close to the floorpans?

They sit pretty darn close to the floor. I can try and get a picture for you this evening from the side, but won't be getting under the car again for a few days