@Jeff73Mach 1. Brass bushing, Z bar

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Joined
Sep 12, 2015
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Location
SW Ontario
My Car
1971 Mustang Mach 1, M code, 4 speed.
Jeff, Did you have any luck finding the link for the replacement brass Z-Bar bushings? I looked, but was unable to come up with anything. I have some other ideas I'm working on for the lower clutch push rod support. I'll share that later when I get something built. I think it will offer a better solution. But I could be wrong also!!

Thanks

Geoff.

 
David, there are roller bearing conversions for the clutch pedal shaft. We were discussing the small bushings in the Z-bar linkage. The linkage probably doesn't have enough meat for roller bearings.

I don't think there are any roller bearings for the Z-bar shaft as they use spherical bearings to allow for engine torque movement, but I suppose I could be wrong on that as I can envision a way to do that, now that you mention it-but it would require a modified frame mount that would likely be more trouble than it is worth.

Geoff

My car required I space the engine side mount out a bit as I am using a blow proof bellhousing and the thickness differs at the flange from stock. The spacers are used to get the bar as close to perpendicular to the frame rail as possible.

 
David, there are roller bearing conversions for the clutch pedal shaft. We were discussing the small bushings in the Z-bar linkage. The linkage probably doesn't have enough meat for roller bearings.

I don't think there are any roller bearings for the Z-bar shaft as they use spherical bearings to allow for engine torque movement, but I suppose I could be wrong on that as I can envision a way to do that, now that you mention it-but it would require a modified frame mount that would likely be more trouble than it is worth.

Geoff

My car required I space the engine side mount out a bit as I am using a blow proof bellhousing and the thickness differs at the flange from stock. The spacers are used to get the bar as close to perpendicular to the frame rail as possible.
Thank you Jeff. I appreciate your feedback. I will check out the part and see if it is what I need. I did replace the Nylon bushings when I did the engine in 2012 and they are OK at a pinch and could be replaced at any time without too much trouble. I agree that a roller bearing won't be suitable on the mount pivots because of the need for engine roll. I am looking at adding some sort of roller bearing or maybe a bronze bushing where the clutch push rod and adjuster locates on the Z bar. My plan is to add a block to the back side and machine it for whatever bearing I end up using. Next, I will machine a swivel block similar in nature to the original, just heavier. The clutch rod will be the original. My Z bar looks just as bad as the one you show and the pin on the original swivel was almost worn to half its diameter. No wonder my clutch was binding and felt too heavy!!

As mentioned, I am considering replacing the clutch as the disc is wearing and there are some hot-spots on the pressure plate as well as the flywheel, which will be resurfaced as a matter of course. What to chose is the question, another Centerforce 2 or Dual friction. Got to give that some thought!!

Again, thanks for your input Jeff.

Geoff.

 
Don C.

I showed him a rod end based pushrod I built, that is basically the same in a PM.

Geoff

You can just buy the clutch disc and reuse your pressure plate- saves about 2/3's the cost of a new clutch. Whoever you use for resurfacing the flywheel can rebuild your clutch for you-it is worth asking-money doesn't come free-unless you can get on the government dole.

Research grant proposal investigating the value of restoration of cars on the environment by reduction of new production byproducts and further reduction in scrap materials contribution to pollution.

All 1971 73 members should be listed as researchers and the government should give us 150,000.00 a piece for our research!!!

 
Heim joints, here's an example , they just don't have them for our years:

http://www.moderndriveline.com/catalog/muscle_z-bar.htm

Spherical bearings:

http://www.rbcbearings.com/sphericalplainbearings/index.htm
Thanks Don. The spherical bearings may hold some promise, would be better than just Nylon bushings. Worth looking into in more detail. There's a lot of good stuff that is NOT made for our years......... why?

Geoff.



Don C.

I showed him a rod end based pushrod I built, that is basically the same in a PM.

Geoff

You can just buy the clutch disc and reuse your pressure plate- saves about 2/3's the cost of a new clutch. Whoever you use for resurfacing the flywheel can rebuild your clutch for you-it is worth asking-money doesn't come free-unless you can get on the government dole.

Research grant proposal investigating the value of restoration of cars on the environment by reduction of new production byproducts and further reduction in scrap materials contribution to pollution.

All 1971 73 members should be listed as researchers and the government should give us 150,000.00 a piece for our research!!!
That would be nice, but not a chance with our Canadian Government.

As for the powdered metal bushing SF1418, that looks like the ticket. It's oil loaded and could be easily replaced long before more damage to the arm. I was thinking roller bearing, but this may not take the side loads that a bronze bushing would. I can get one of those locally, no problem.

On the clutch, yes, just a new disc is prime option, but I'm just looking at my possibilities and yes money doesn't grow on trees around here either and my 'pensions' are not keeping up with inflation. Sucks to be old(er)!!

Thanks to all for your help on this, I'll keep you posted as I get it all back together. Spring can't be too far away now.

Geoff.

 
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Heim joints, here's an example , they just don't have them for our years:

http://www.moderndriveline.com/catalog/muscle_z-bar.htm

Spherical bearings:

http://www.rbcbearings.com/sphericalplainbearings/index.htm
Don, re; spherical bearings. There are possibilities here especially if one were building a beefed up version. I found some that might work, but thinking about it, it occurred to me that there is also a need for lateral movement through the bearing as the engine rolls. For now, I'm staying with the nylon replacement for the factory originals. They are easy to replace if needs be.

I will be using a bronze bushing similar to the SF1418 that Jeff mentioned for the bottom clutch rod swivel and not a roller bearing as that wouldn't take the side load as well. Fixing one item at a time, I'll address other areas of concern as I go. It will be some time before I get everything back together, so thanks everyone for the help and suggestions so far.

Geoff.

 
David, there are roller bearing conversions for the clutch pedal shaft. We were discussing the small bushings in the Z-bar linkage. The linkage probably doesn't have enough meat for roller bearings.

I don't think there are any roller bearings for the Z-bar shaft as they use spherical bearings to allow for engine torque movement, but I suppose I could be wrong on that as I can envision a way to do that, now that you mention it-but it would require a modified frame mount that would likely be more trouble than it is worth.

Geoff

My car required I space the engine side mount out a bit as I am using a blow proof bellhousing and the thickness differs at the flange from stock. The spacers are used to get the bar as close to perpendicular to the frame rail as possible.
Ok got ya did not read close enough. I have snapped the ball off when motor mount was bad on 65.

David

 
David, there are roller bearing conversions for the clutch pedal shaft. We were discussing the small bushings in the Z-bar linkage. The linkage probably doesn't have enough meat for roller bearings.

I don't think there are any roller bearings for the Z-bar shaft as they use spherical bearings to allow for engine torque movement, but I suppose I could be wrong on that as I can envision a way to do that, now that you mention it-but it would require a modified frame mount that would likely be more trouble than it is worth.

Geoff

My car required I space the engine side mount out a bit as I am using a blow proof bellhousing and the thickness differs at the flange from stock. The spacers are used to get the bar as close to perpendicular to the frame rail as possible.
Ok got ya did not read close enough. I have snapped the ball off when motor mount was bad on 65.

David
Hey, I thought I'd post these pics of what I did to mine last summer, in case it could help you. Looks like you're on to this modification, if I understand you correctly. (plus, pics are always more fun!)

Eric

Clutch Rod 1.jpg

Clutch Rod 2.jpg

Flange bearing-bushing.PNG

Drill out to half inch.jpg

Insert brass door hinge bushing.jpg

 
David, there are roller bearing conversions for the clutch pedal shaft. We were discussing the small bushings in the Z-bar linkage. The linkage probably doesn't have enough meat for roller bearings.

I don't think there are any roller bearings for the Z-bar shaft as they use spherical bearings to allow for engine torque movement, but I suppose I could be wrong on that as I can envision a way to do that, now that you mention it-but it would require a modified frame mount that would likely be more trouble than it is worth.

Geoff

My car required I space the engine side mount out a bit as I am using a blow proof bellhousing and the thickness differs at the flange from stock. The spacers are used to get the bar as close to perpendicular to the frame rail as possible.
Ok got ya did not read close enough. I have snapped the ball off when motor mount was bad on 65.

David
Hey, I thought I'd post these pics of what I did to mine last summer, in case it could help you. Looks like you're on to this modification, if I understand you correctly. (plus, pics are always more fun!)

Eric
That's exactly what I'm doing to the bottom joint, but I had not yet got as far as thinking about the top end as well. Very good point Eric. I'll look at doing all the pivots this way. Thanks for the pictures, yes, much more fun!! I'll have to post my pics when I get that far, which could be some time yet.

Geoff.

 
I did not do the upper rod in my car (yet) but if it has slack or wear, it would be a big help. I was actually thinking of cutting my rod and turning the ends down enough to thread and use a female rod end/heim joint on each end. If one left hand thread end is used and one right hand thread one is used on the other end it would also allow adjustment of pedal height to some extent (subject to the clutch's engagement)

 
I did not do the upper rod in my car (yet) but if it has slack or wear, it would be a big help. I was actually thinking of cutting my rod and turning the ends down enough to thread and use a female rod end/heim joint on each end. If one left hand thread end is used and one right hand thread one is used on the other end it would also allow adjustment of pedal height to some extent (subject to the clutch's engagement)
That would be sweet! I used a couple of those "rod ends" to secure my new A/C compressor...

20151213_120212.jpg

I purchased them here:

https://www.swracecars.com/

 
I did not do the upper rod in my car (yet) but if it has slack or wear, it would be a big help. I was actually thinking of cutting my rod and turning the ends down enough to thread and use a female rod end/heim joint on each end. If one left hand thread end is used and one right hand thread one is used on the other end it would also allow adjustment of pedal height to some extent (subject to the clutch's engagement)
Jeff, another great suggestion. More adjustment the better. I actually have set my pedal height as high as I can, short legs and all!! I cut the rubber bump-stop to half the thickness to get this.

I have no doubt others are reading this thread, saying "wow, why didn't I think of that"

Anyway, I have all my bushings on order ( in duplicate), so I should be able to get cracking at my mods very soon.

Geoff.



I did not do the upper rod in my car (yet) but if it has slack or wear, it would be a big help. I was actually thinking of cutting my rod and turning the ends down enough to thread and use a female rod end/heim joint on each end. If one left hand thread end is used and one right hand thread one is used on the other end it would also allow adjustment of pedal height to some extent (subject to the clutch's engagement)
That would be sweet! I used a couple of those "rod ends" to secure my new A/C compressor...

Those would work by the looks of them. Good idea guys!

Geoff

I purchased them here:

https://www.swracecars.com/
 
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What is it about our year stang that they don't make an upgraded z bar kit similar to the barillaro? I'm not the best in a machine shop but I'd like to make mine more durable and smooth. If a rod end solution is discovered I don't mind doing what I can or throwing a couple bones someone's way for help.

 
I did not do the upper rod in my car (yet) but if it has slack or wear, it would be a big help. I was actually thinking of cutting my rod and turning the ends down enough to thread and use a female rod end/heim joint on each end. If one left hand thread end is used and one right hand thread one is used on the other end it would also allow adjustment of pedal height to some extent (subject to the clutch's engagement)
I made the rod from some 1/2"O.D. tubing and spherical rod ends. I found some nylon spherical bearings in the McMaster-Carr catalog that worked great in my home made Z-bar.

 
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