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3- Point Seat Belts w/o neck rash!


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Well, after obsessing over the 3-point seat belt question on and off for a few weeks, I have arrived at THE easiest and best solution.

 

My research on the topic taught me that we are searching for what is called a drop link. The Drop Link is a very useful accessory and is employed when the vehicle does not have a pillar which extends to the roof. This is the case most commonly with coupe or fastback style vehicles. While the drop link is mounted up onto the underside of the roof, the drop of webbing brings the loop link down thereby ensuring that the sash part of the belt goes across the occupant from shoulder to opposing hip and not across the neck. Refer to the below diagrams.

52041911_dr-post-retractable-seat-belt1.gif.d2484ea153b3788c178199bba4484626.gif

1495919465_no-dr-post-retractable-seat-belt1.gif.33cf673916073b96fdd8366445569e8c.gif

540795031_DropLinkSystem.PNG.63f33504c6a51615a9e9915e87ecff67.PNG

1452257850_030bccee6698fd3f30f387166d8caffc1.jpg.c3992f4ff40971dcb9bd45f25888fb77.jpg

 

The problem is much more apparent when the "vertically challenged" come for a ride in our cars...whether it be the wife, the kids, or maybe even yourself, if you're not really pushing the 6 foot figures.

750049113_safety-belt-retract1.gif.7017f9e0628b27d7aeb583aded1d7e02.gif

 

I have read other posts on this site where somewhat "taller" type guys are also experiencing the problem. This is why our new cars have height adjustment at the attachment point on the pillar. Here's a few pics, of 2 beautiful cars, from this site, which show the problem with the link being bolted all the way up at the ceiling...

1522681541_!11.jpg.fbd38a4637402dbf8abc22eb8b3c184f.jpg

93760288_!41.jpg.014ef54527ddb8f146c203517ee9b893.jpg

 

and here...

963481934_IMG_04011.JPG.e9b8f45db1f0a1a8c34c52b557e3a077.JPG

2032515283_IMG_04021-Copy.JPG.d22eb86d733e18488b598823013e5175.JPG

 

The link, by dropping the pivot point will change the angle across the chest to here...(marked in red)

1925677018_IMG_04011-Copy.JPG.155bd1ed616005537d1d6a24dbe86c60.JPG

 

So, get some new universal belts, which will work in our cars, then find and buy a drop link and use it in place of the existing link which attaches at the ceiling...NOT SO EASY! I searched and searched and searched...this is when flirting with the inherent OCD tendencies that I sometimes possess comes in handy. I literally searched the friggin' world over, only to find you cannot purchase a drop link in the USA., you must go down under, to AustinVert land, Australia.

 

So I contacted my good buddy Greg (AustinVert) and he and I planned on having him ship me a drop link. Greg is the best!!!

I told him to sit on this idea for a little bit and let me ponder any other possible alternatives...

 

About a week later, I'm arriving at my son's basketball game and I just parked my car. While walking through the parking lot something caught my eye...the visiting teams full sized ford van, with large side windows...you know the kind W/O ANY PILLARS along the side of the 3 rear rows of REAR seats! (with 6 drop links, one at each rear seating position) Yes, it hit me like a ton a bricks too. You cannot buy a drop link separately, but you can buy a seatbelt which has a drop link on it from the same exact manufacturer that supplies the one you would buy for your Mustang. It fits perfectly, with one easy-to-make bracket extension. It has the vintage metal Starburst buckle. It looks perfect and it has a higher quality retractor!

 

Here's the pic of my new belts in my 73 Mach one. The angle across the chest is perfect. The loop is at my shoulder height and I'm 6'-2". Works great for me and my 5'-1" wife. The retractor pulls the slack completely out of the belt when you guide it back to it's resting position.

919606275_Mybeltswiththedroplink-Copy.thumb.jpg.281989d7df0f4ac4ebc613535bab51c5.jpg

 

I got them here:

http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/long-sash-seat-belt-starburst.html

990435608_Mybeltswiththedroplink.thumb.jpg.23be961985980195c3cd03f69c3b0867.jpg

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Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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Hi Eric,

 

Thanks for a great post and the good rap, and hey, that seems to have solved your seat belt problem really well. It's great when you build a better mouse trap to help yourself and other folks too. Well done Sir!::thumb::

 

Greg.:)

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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EBSTANG,

 

Great information here! Are these the seat belt drop links that you were speaking with Austin Vert?

 

http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=268

 

fwhvtx.jpg

 

 

mustang7173 :bravo:

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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I love my droplink (that's mine in the fourth image on your post). Weird that they seem to be readily available here in Australia and not in the rest of the world though; I would have thought they'd be used everywhere in the US with the amount of different hardtops built in the US over the years. When I first bought my car it was the first thing I noticed that the original seat belt was cutting into my neck and I remember thinking surely they wouldn't have come out of the factory this way?? I had to change the seat belts to Australian Design Rules approved though, so made sure the new belts I got had a droplink in them.

 

MGFnJKs.jpg

Brett

phonestang2.jpg

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EBSTANG,

 

Great information here! Are these the seat belt drop links that you were speaking with Austin Vert?

 

http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=268

 

fwhvtx.jpg

 

 

mustang7173 :bravo:

 

I did see those but I was ready to pull the trigger on these:

 

These 150mm drop links (±6") would have been installed on my driver seat position, as I am 6'-2" tall.

https://www.autobarn.com.au/apv-s-apv-droplink-150mm-k7099s

1419096096_150mm.PNG.7f5b84afb8dbc8a7e38c55b82e08f4ae.PNG

 

These 250mm drop links (±10") would have been installed on my passenger seat position, as my wife is 5'-1" tall.

https://www.autobarn.com.au/apv-s-apv-droplink-250mm-k7099

1036746278_250mm.thumb.PNG.fc840e6c9cf88d37af2ce2ed13503dac.PNG

 

Greg was going to buy them for me and ship them to the USA. This would have cost $40.± and with the cost of the 2 links being around $100.± I was willing to pay the price to have them the way I wanted but I still needed to buy the seat belts themselves, in addition to these links. Various venders sell them for around $200.± (now I'm in @ $350 total) You can see, when I figured out that a 3 point seat belt, designed for a van, would work perfectly and cost $171.68 (to my doorstep!), I was done this investigation.

 

It's all about the "sash" angle, ultimately, you should have the link height set as low as you can (for comfort) without going below the height of the wearer's shoulder. Once the level goes below the level of the shoulder, the forces involved in a head on collision would tend to create more of a downward compressive force on the shoulder than if it was above the shoulder. The higher you go, however, you can just imagine the force exerted across the base/side of the neck. Nothing to freak out over but when you do it, do it right. (or more right than the alternative) Kinda makes you think about that adjustable height/slide mechanism in many of todays newer cars. (you probably should adjust it)

 

Eric


I love my droplink (that's mine in the fourth image on your post). Weird that they seem to be readily available here in Australia and not in the rest of the world though; I would have thought they'd be used everywhere in the US with the amount of different hardtops built in the US over the years. When I first bought my car it was the first thing I noticed that the original seat belt was cutting into my neck and I remember thinking surely they wouldn't have come out of the factory this way?? I had to change the seat belt to Australian Design Rules approved though, so made sure the new belts I got had a droplink in them.

 

MGFnJKs.jpg

 

I was perplexed, to say the least, regarding that exact thought Brett. Couldn't believe that something you could purchase in other parts of the world, couldn't be purchased in the good 'ole USA!

My best guess is liability concerns and the possible implications of potentially having to deal with greedy American lawyers! How many could you sell?(how many Americans are actually modifying their seatbelt systems)...cost/benefit

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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I made my own with a spring shackle side plate.

 

Yeah Jeff, I had read that in one of your posts, in my "research" phase. :chin:

 

Post a pic, maybe I understood you incorrectly, I was thinking that would potentially give my kid a nice scrape on his head while climbing in the back!...so I moved on. I think you said, in your comments on the tire sizing thread, that nobody really ever rides in your back seat anyway. I was on your idea for a while, even thinking of substituting a section of 8-10 links of 5/16"± chain to keep it flexible. Since I needed to get new belts altogether, I went a different direction. But, as always (usually :-/) I like your thinking.

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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I only did the driver side and my seat is a fixed back racing seat, so I don't have the same concerns. It's not much work to round all the edges and plastidip the part for a light protective coating.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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I only did the driver side and my seat is a fixed back racing seat, so I don't have the same concerns. It's not much work to round all the edges and plastidip the part for a light protective coating.

 

Nice....! ::thumb:: You never cease to amaze!

 

No fun without PICS!!! where's the pics!!! ;)

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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Nice find. I looked into this sometime ago and I found this alternative in the USA for $15/ea.:

http://www.andoauto.com/hardware.htm

Look towards the bottom of the page for "Shoulder Harness 8" DPE"

I have not purchased it so I don't know if it works. It will also require some unstitching and restitching of the belt so it can go through.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Nice find. I looked into this sometime ago and I found this alternative in the USA for $15/ea.:

http://www.andoauto.com/hardware.htm

Look towards the bottom of the page for "Shoulder Harness 8" DPE"

I have not purchased it so I don't know if it works. It will also require some unstitching and restitching of the belt so it can go through.

 

 

Thanks Tony but the website link doesn't seem to work for me. A drop link available in the states would be a good option for someone who's willing to cut and sew their existing belts, to put on the drop link.

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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Nice find. I looked into this sometime ago and I found this alternative in the USA for $15/ea.:

http://www.andoauto.com/hardware.htm

Look towards the bottom of the page for "Shoulder Harness 8" DPE"

I have not purchased it so I don't know if it works. It will also require some unstitching and restitching of the belt so it can go through.

 

 

Thanks Tony but the link doesn't seem to work for me. A link in the states would be a good option for someone who's willing to cut and sew their existing belts, to put on the drop link.

 

Strange, it works for me.

Try going to the home page, http://www.andoauto.com/

Does that work?

If the home page opens for you then click on the 5th "Click Here For" link from the bottom up.

 

An issue I am concerned with is sewing the belts. I am assuming that can be sourced out. Any ideas where?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Nice find. I looked into this sometime ago and I found this alternative in the USA for $15/ea.:

http://www.andoauto.com/hardware.htm

Look towards the bottom of the page for "Shoulder Harness 8" DPE"

I have not purchased it so I don't know if it works. It will also require some unstitching and restitching of the belt so it can go through.

 

 

Thanks Tony but the link doesn't seem to work for me. A link in the states would be a good option for someone who's willing to cut and sew their existing belts, to put on the drop link.

 

Strange, it works for me.

Try going to the home page, http://www.andoauto.com/

Does that work?

If the home page opens for you then click on the 5th "Click Here For" link from the bottom up.

 

An issue I am concerned with is sewing the belts. I am assuming that can be sourced out. Any ideas where?

 

I bet you could bring it to a shoe repair guy and they'd fix you right up! I've had them sew a leather holster for my 357 magnum before.

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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EBSTANG,

 

What length of the Bucket seat end did your order? You have either an 8 inch or 11 inch.

 

mustang7173

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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EBSTANG,

 

What length of the Bucket seat end did your order? You have either an 8 inch or 11 inch.

 

mustang7173

 

 

 

I got them here:

http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/long-sash-seat-belt-starburst.html

 

Bucket Seat, Eleven inch, (regular seat) Eight inch would definitely be too short.

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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Well, after obsessing over the 3-point seat belt question on and off for a few weeks, I have arrived at THE easiest and best solution.

 

My research on the topic taught me that we are searching for what is called a drop link. The Drop Link is a very useful accessory and is employed when the vehicle does not have a pillar which extends to the roof. This is the case most commonly with coupe or fastback style vehicles. While the drop link is mounted up onto the underside of the roof, the drop of webbing brings the loop link down thereby ensuring that the sash part of the belt goes across the occupant from shoulder to opposing hip and not across the neck. Refer to the below diagrams.

 

 

 

 

 

The problem is much more apparent when the "vertically challenged" come for a ride in our cars...whether it be the wife, the kids, or maybe even yourself, if you're not really pushing the 6 foot figures.

 

 

I have read other posts on this site where somewhat "taller" type guys are also experiencing the problem. This is why our new cars have height adjustment at the attachment point on the pillar. Here's a few pics, of 2 beautiful cars, from this site, which show the problem with the link being bolted all the way up at the ceiling...

 

 

 

and here...

 

 

 

The link, by dropping the pivot point will change the angle across the chest to here...(marked in red)

 

 

So, get some new universal belts, which will work in our cars, then find and buy a drop link and use it in place of the existing link which attaches at the ceiling...NOT SO EASY! I searched and searched and searched...this is when flirting with the inherent OCD tendencies that I sometimes possess comes in handy. I literally searched the friggin' world over, only to find you cannot purchase a drop link in the USA., you must go down under, to AustinVert land, Australia.

 

So I contacted my good buddy Greg (AustinVert) and he and I planned on having him ship me a drop link. Greg is the best!!!

I told him to sit on this idea for a little bit and let me ponder any other possible alternatives...

 

About a week later, I'm arriving at my son's basketball game and I just parked my car. While walking through the parking lot something caught my eye...the visiting teams full sized ford van, with large side windows...you know the kind W/O ANY PILLARS along the side of the 3 rear rows of REAR seats! (with 6 drop links, one at each rear seating position) Yes, it hit me like a ton a bricks too. You cannot buy a drop link separately, but you can buy a seatbelt which has a drop link on it from the same exact manufacturer that supplies the one you would buy for your Mustang. It fits perfectly, with one easy-to-make bracket extension. It has the vintage metal Starburst buckle. It looks perfect and it has a higher quality retractor!

 

Here's the pic of my new belts in my 73 Mach one. The angle across the chest is perfect. The loop is at my shoulder height and I'm 6'-2". Works great for me and my 5'-1" wife. The retractor pulls the slack completely out of the belt when you guide it back to it's resting position.

 

 

I got them here:

http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/long-sash-seat-belt-starburst.html

 

OK, before you start asking, I've taken the time to upload 17 pics which show my seat belt side-by-side with a replacement aftermarket 3-point seatbelt you'd buy from a mustang supplier. I've taken this time to head off your questions about what to do with the bracket included on the end of my "van" seat belt and that it doesn't seem like you could mount it to the same sill bolt that the retractor mounts to. The universal "mustang" belt has a log slotted bracket at the end of it's belt and mine has a short bracket with a slight bend to it. The pics show that you will need to make a bracket out of flat bar 3-4" long (not rocket science) to off set the connection of the small bracket that comes with the "van" belt. These pics show this very clearly. I had a few old chrome brackets which I flattened out, in a vise, to accomplish the task. You could easily use two pieces of 3/16" x 1" x 4" pieces of mild steel. You'd drill a 1/2" hole at each end and then paint it, done. Look at the pics, It's very simple, don't overcomplicate it. Pics show a mock up, on my table, with a 1/2" x 1" hex bolt. When assembled in the car, I used a 1/2" x 3/4" carriage bolt, with the square under the carriage bolt head ground away and a fender washer under the cap nut. The carriage bolt head is thinner and fit tighter up against the sill. Again, a 1 on the 1-5 difficulty scale for the novice guys...

1sb.thumb.jpg.8be77718029b5a96006c20601dec26b3.jpg

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Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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Personally, I like the look of the style Brett used in his car (that can be had from AutoBarn, AndoAuto, or Pentastarparts) - the others shown have the obnoxious-looking plastic sheaths that just look cheap to me.

 

How does one put a longer droplink into an existing set of 3-points, anyway (without taking something apart and requiring someone to professionally put it back together)? I bought a set of 3-points from NPD and they're installed & working fine. I'm not seeing a way to remove the existing short upper link and replacing with any of the droplink products mentioned thus far. If someone could explain how that works, that would be great.

 

Jeff's idea is probably the best, in my opinion, simply because it's straightforward and you can pretty much get the exact look you want, without a cheese-mo plastic sheath on display through the quarter windows - especially, when they're rolled down. That, and you don't have to take anything apart to make it work. Since I already have the belts showing through the windows, the products not having the full-length plastic sheaths would be more visually appealing - looks pretty much the same as the belts I already have, in other words.

 

This is all great information - had I known about these before I got my belts from NPD, I might've gotten them from Wesco Performance and not thought twice about it.

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Personally, I like the look of the style Brett used in his car (that can be had from AutoBarn, AndoAuto, or Pentastarparts) - the others shown have the obnoxious-looking plastic sheaths that just look cheap to me.

 

How does one put a longer droplink into an existing set of 3-points, anyway (without taking something apart and requiring someone to professionally put it back together)? I bought a set of 3-points from NPD and they're installed & working fine. I'm not seeing a way to remove the existing short upper link and replacing with any of the droplink products mentioned thus far. If someone could explain how that works, that would be great.

 

Jeff's idea is probably the best, in my opinion, simply because it's straightforward and you can pretty much get the exact look you want, without a cheese-mo plastic sheath on display through the quarter windows - especially, when they're rolled down. That, and you don't have to take anything apart to make it work. Since I already have the belts showing through the windows, the products not having the full-length plastic sheaths would be more visually appealing - looks pretty much the same as the belts I already have, in other words.

 

This is all great information - had I known about these before I got my belts from NPD, I might've gotten them from Wesco Performance and not thought twice about it.

 

In my, not-so-humble opinion, I don't agree with your not-so-humble opinion...:P My car has power, tinted windows, which rarely ever get put down because of my Classic Auto Air...I have rear passengers often (kids) which a metal drop link isn't the way to go for me. (If I had a fixed racing seat, like Jeff's, and already had the 3-point belts, I'd would've considered it more. (the metal link)

 

It's just chocolate and vanilla

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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No worries - and I wasn't bashing your set-up, sorry if you took offense on that. I don't have kids either, so the back seat is really not much more than a formality for me. Your set-up works for you, and you like it just fine... and that's all that really matters.

 

The fully sheathed plastic just looks kinda "late-model cheap" to me... again, my opinion. Then again, I'm also that guy who thinks wood grain vinyl trim belongs on the side of a Country Squire Station Wagon... not in a hot rod like a Mach 1.

 

Jeff's idea could also lend itself for a restomod-minded individual to maybe take it to the next level and make an artistic statement with the pieces, a la Ring Brothers 5-point harness mounts on the Dragon show car (for example).

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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I love my droplink (that's mine in the fourth image on your post). Weird that they seem to be readily available here in Australia and not in the rest of the world though; I would have thought they'd be used everywhere in the US with the amount of different hardtops built in the US over the years. When I first bought my car it was the first thing I noticed that the original seat belt was cutting into my neck and I remember thinking surely they wouldn't have come out of the factory this way?? I had to change the seat belts to Australian Design Rules approved though, so made sure the new belts I got had a droplink in them.

 

MGFnJKs.jpg

 

Hi Brett,

 

Quick question. Has your State Government recently relaxed the seat belt laws regarding classic cars? They have in Queensland, and now i'm allowed to have lap only belts in my Vert, and factory belts in my Mach 1.:@ ( the Mach has original factory belts installed already) I was angry over this, as i spent a large sum of money and went to great deal of trouble to install and modify new lap and sash belts for the Vert after i bought it in 2011. You HAD to have lap and sash belts installed back then. The position of the shoulder anchor bolt has to be located in a small confined area, and so now, the quarter window winder cranks hits the anchor bolts covers every time you wind the glass up and down. That's a real pain in the neck. Now i can use the original American factory belts that were in the car when i bought it.:shootself:

 

Sorry Eric, didn't mean to hi jack your post.:)

 

Greg.:)

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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lol great fix guys but you have to remember this was built in the 70's where your mom's arm was your safety as a kid no child safety seats etc. Shoulder harness was detachable because they did not see a use for them back in the day they did not even want to put seat belts in cars because they "Implied they were not safe" so modern upgrades are the trick to make our cars safer or you just do like our parents did and risk it.

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I love my droplink (that's mine in the fourth image on your post). Weird that they seem to be readily available here in Australia and not in the rest of the world though; I would have thought they'd be used everywhere in the US with the amount of different hardtops built in the US over the years. When I first bought my car it was the first thing I noticed that the original seat belt was cutting into my neck and I remember thinking surely they wouldn't have come out of the factory this way?? I had to change the seat belts to Australian Design Rules approved though, so made sure the new belts I got had a droplink in them.

 

MGFnJKs.jpg

 

Hi Brett,

 

Quick question. Has your State Government recently relaxed the seat belt laws regarding classic cars? They have in Queensland, and now i'm allowed to have lap only belts in my Vert, and factory belts in my Mach 1.:@ ( the Mach has original factory belts installed already) I was angry over this, as i spent a large sum of money and went to great deal of trouble to install and modify new lap and sash belts for the Vert after i bought it in 2011. You HAD to have lap and sash belts installed back then. The position of the shoulder anchor bolt has to be located in a small confined area, and so now, the quarter window winder cranks hits the anchor bolts covers every time you wind the glass up and down. That's a real pain in the neck. Now i can use the original American factory belts that were in the car when i bought it.:shootself:

 

Sorry Eric, didn't mean to hi jack your post.:)

 

Greg.:)

 

...my thread, your thread, our thread, it's all good to me Greg...come and hang out anytime. ::thumb::


No worries - and I wasn't bashing your set-up, sorry if you took offense on that. I don't have kids either, so the back seat is really not much more than a formality for me. Your set-up works for you, and you like it just fine... and that's all that really matters.

 

The fully sheathed plastic just looks kinda "late-model cheap" to me... again, my opinion. Then again, I'm also that guy who thinks wood grain vinyl trim belongs on the side of a Country Squire Station Wagon... not in a hot rod like a Mach 1.

 

Jeff's idea could also lend itself for a restomod-minded individual to maybe take it to the next level and make an artistic statement with the pieces, a la Ring Brothers 5-point harness mounts on the Dragon show car (for example).

 

It's all good E, I was just bustin' your balls...and they say us northerners are harsh, we got nothin' on a Texan I know! rofl

 

You know, you could just not use the "ugly rubber sleeve," and hang it just like this...or cut it shorter (the sleeve) to look like Brett's. I think I now definitely have a sleeve complex!

5sb.thumb.jpg.e836b06a9b26a0c5612ad27a3dfc43ef.jpg

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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Y'all are both looking at solutions that fit your particular problems. I don't think there are "right" answers. My solution is not elegant, but my intent is to add either a roll cage or at least a custom harness bar, so my solution was more of a quick and dirty modification with parts I had laying around. I was discussing modifications with a friend and we came to the conclusion that a hot rodder would make a modification that works and then move on, rather than getting bogged down with the idea of making it perfect (ala my wheel well enlargement we could have made all our cuts perfect and welded it up in a manner that would have been virtually invisible-instead we lapped panels and welded both seams and covered it all with plenty of seam sealer and undercoating. Good enough) Making a restomod can result in a higher level of finish. You are both working as craftsmen- and that requires a higher level of artistry to be involved. I think both of your solutions are fantastic.

 

I am clearly a hot rodder :D

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Y'all are both looking at solutions that fit your particular problems. I don't think there are "right" answers. My solution is not elegant, but my intent is to add either a roll cage or at least a custom harness bar, so my solution was more of a quick and dirty modification with parts I had laying around. I was discussing modifications with a friend and we came to the conclusion that a hot rodder would make a modification that works and then move on, rather than getting bogged down with the idea of making it perfect (ala my wheel well enlargement we could have made all our cuts perfect and welded it up in a manner that would have been virtually invisible-instead we lapped panels and welded both seams and covered it all with plenty of seam sealer and undercoating. Good enough) Making a restomod can result in a higher level of finish. You are both working as craftsmen- and that requires a higher level of artistry to be involved. I think both of your solutions are fantastic.

 

I am clearly a hot rodder :D

 

I wanna be a hot rodder, I just can't help myself.:-/

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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