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Getting on track


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I've been on here awhile now. I figured with all the info I've collected I should at least put up a few pics as my car progresses.

 

It started out like this

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Found water on the passenger floor

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Since the oilfields no longer need me these days...

I've moved on to fixing it

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An unpleasant surprise that I'm looking for advise on

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Not the best pic but thats brazing and a once crunched lower a-pillar. The door fitment was actually pretty good before but there was a pile of mud and I'm wondering if I should be concerned about structural.

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Was your Mustang an Alberta car or from somewhere else? I used to live and Pastor in Calgary, and back in the day, only sand was used on the roads in the winter snow and ice storms. Your car looks like it really took a hit from the rust.

Tim: Restoring 71-73 Ponies, Restoring People

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  • 1 year later...
IMG_0290.thumb.JPG.416d5771cbd74fd13a54a99b9a463fcf.JPGIMG_0291.thumb.JPG.d8b369e18dfc3cd7307f8f9e9919a5f7.JPGIMG_0292.thumb.JPG.2a86826f09b3f976e620467de98c725f.JPGIMG_0293.thumb.JPG.57e0bb2013a14ecddc95b4b01255da28.JPGIMG_0294.thumb.JPG.9d748865e459020b071f1d39d951bde2.JPGA couple quick pics of the Total Control Products front and rear. Will work on getting the pics to load properly when I get a chance. This site has been more than a wealth of information. Thanks again to everyone who contributes. I'm sure as I progress the questions will continue to come
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  • 4 weeks later...

You have come a long way, your car is looking great.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I looked through the posts in your thread, and see that nobody answered your question about the brazed a pillar. You have nothing to worry about. Before everyone had a wire feed welder that could weld thin sheet metal, and couldn't be easily spot welded with a shop-sized spot welder, brazing was the preferred method. Less heat, less warpage, and with the added benefit of no rust. Properly done, brazing is very strong. It appears that whoever did yours knew what they were doing, the door fit is good and it still looks good after many years of being in use.

 

By the way, your car is looking great.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 11 months later...

looks great. I like the table too.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

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The switch from auto to manual has begun. Modern driveline clutch pedal. Scott Drake bearing assembly.

 

 

 

 

In your clutch pedal you may want to screw a hood bumper in the hole where the rubber stop of the pedal is located, similar to the trick shown in the last picture of this article: http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/drivetrain/mump-1010-how-to-install-a-five-speed-in-a-1971-to-1973-mustang/

Instead of screwing the bumper to the assembly, I tapped the hole already in the pedal and screwed it in there. Easy mod to to while the pedal is out. The thread is 5/16-18, but double check just in case. The hole is already of the right size so you just have to tap it.

 

PS: the reason to add the adjustability is so you can keep the clutch pedal at the same height as the brake pedal.

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Thanks Tony. Much easier to do now.

 

 

 

Didn’t have much of a chance to do anything today so mounted radiator for fun. 

 

 

What radiator is that?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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