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A guy in my area is parting out a '73 Mach 1 rust queen and has the power steering pump & box for $150. Is that pretty much a straight bolt in to my '71 (non power steering) car?

Thanks for the advice!
The answer is yes. I have done it twice and it is relatively straight forward. You will need to buy or rent a puller for the drag link/pitman arm joint. (don't recommend the 'FBH' (freakin' big hammer) method).

You didn't say what engine is in your car, so let's assume it's a Cleveland. Regardless, you will need everything you can get off the donor car, fan pulley, brackets and the crank shaft pulley as they are all different size to what you have. That part is straight forward enough. There is a spacer needed behind the pump bracket if I remember. My car is currently apart, so I can't just go and check.

What you need to look at on the donor P/S box is the tag number. Most Mustangs had the Saginaw P/S box, which is what I'm familiar with. Kevin Marti's book 'Mustang and Cougar Tagbook' list the 73 P/S boxes as follows: SPA-S,-U <1/2/73 @17.5:1, SPA-T,-V <1/2/73 @16:1 to 13:1 Variable Ratio, SPA-AC,-AE >1/2/73 @ 17.5:1 and SPA-AD, -AF @ 16:1 to 13:1 Variable Ratio. Hopefully you will have a Variable ratio which will give you about 3 1/4 turns LTL. Carefully inspect for fluid leaks at the seals and the pitman arm swivel joint. You will need the arm that is on the P/S box or replace it with the correct part. I just rebuilt my box, it can be done and there are some good video's on YouTube. Cost was about 60 bucks. You can buy a complete kit with the bearings or you can buy a kit from NPD that does not have them for $32. You do need to be quite good with your hands though. Assuming all is good, there are just 3 bolts holding the box on to the frame, accessed from the wheel well. In my case, the rag joint on the P/S box was still in great shape, so I didn't have to buy a new one (yet). Just remove the 2 nuts that hold the rag joint to the column shaft and it should lift out. If the hoses look rough, replace them. I would flush the pump and the box with fresh Ford Tranny fluid, which is what Ford recommend using for the P/S. Assembly is reverse, don't forget to fill the pump!!. It only took me about 3 hours to complete the switch. Make sure everything is tight, and fire it up slowly turn the wheel LTL to bleed the air out and top off the pump when hot and level. I jacked up the front so there was no load on the wheels. While you're at it check and replace the idler arm if needs be and also check the entire steering system. Just makes sense to do it all at once. Don't skimp on parts now as you will be replacing them later!! Get it re-aligned after. The new driving experience will be well worth the effort.

Hope I've covered everything,

Geoff.

After thought! On the 71 P/S, one of the hoses is longer and loops up over the shock tower brace. I believe the 73's are shorter and run close to the exhaust. If you want the 71 look, use the longer hose. Also, not being too familiar with the 73's, there may be some other differences that I'm not aware of for switching over to a 71. Perhaps other with 73's can advise.

 
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awesome response Stanglover, i need to put ps on my 73 'vert, your info will be put to good use in my future.

 
awesome response Stanglover, i need to put ps on my 73 'vert, your info will be put to good use in my future.
Thanks, but as I said, I'm not up on the 73's, so I can't say for certain that everything will be the same. Could be some minor stuff different. Instead of using an old P/S box, there are some good websites that sell them new or good rebuilt ones for about $300 US. There was a post recently with a link to such a site. (I need to find it for myself just incase my home rebuild is NFG!! lol.) I would buy one with the lowest ratio possible, like 13:1 or close. Hope that is useful.

Geoff.

 
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A guy in my area is parting out a '73 Mach 1 rust queen and has the power steering pump & box for $150. Is that pretty much a straight bolt in to my '71 (non power steering) car?

Thanks for the advice!
Hey Josh, another thought crossed my mind that I didn't occur to me at the time I wrote my 'instructions' and that was A/C. I did not have to deal with that issue, but I think it would be basically the same, only a lot more work!! I'll go through my photo's, I may have a few helpful shots, not sure without looking.

OK found a few shots of my buddies 71 which is factory original.

Geoff.

 
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