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I used these, they are a little bit more but fit my doors really well.

 

http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/speaker_assys_radio_4_x_8-184732-0.html

 

Click on pic for full screen.

IMG_3002.thumb.JPG.20a255c5dc12c706d857165ad3b987a2.JPG

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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I have some Sony 5 x 7's (no longer available) I don't remember cutting the doors for these, but I would have and easily not remembered. :whistling:

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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  • 3 weeks later...

I used these, they are a little bit more but fit my doors really well.

 

http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/speaker_assys_radio_4_x_8-184732-0.html

 

Click on pic for full screen.

Can you post a pic of where the wire goes thru the door, I am installing door speakers in mine that never had them. What do you have for rear speakers?

Thanks

 

TFA

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I used these, they are a little bit more but fit my doors really well.

 

http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/speaker_assys_radio_4_x_8-184732-0.html

 

Click on pic for full screen.

Can you post a pic of where the wire goes thru the door, I am installing door speakers in mine that never had them. What do you have for rear speakers?

Thanks

 

TFA

 

Hi,

 

Here some photo's:

 

door speaker rubber tubing for sale:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-1972-1973-MUSTANG-MACH-1-BOSS-351-Rubber-Tubing-to-protect-Wiring-/111964342830?hash=item1a11984a2e:g:mmAAAOSwAvJXCbMu

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I posted a thread on the door speakers a couple months ago but here is the Ford install instructions with template.

The pictures are of the wire for the passenger door with speaker and the other is passenger door with speaker and power window. The two rubber blocks attach to the door one on the end next to the hinge, can see in previous post, and other to the surface that the door panel attaches to.

The boots are getting difficult to find that are not rotten. I don't have a door here that I can give you the hole sizes from. Don't just start drilling holes they need to be a certain size. I can measure tomorrow and send info if you need.

David

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IMG.pdf

IMG_0001.pdf

IMG_0002.pdf

IMG_0003.pdf

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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David thanks so much for the template. Can tell already I'll need to send the pair I ordered from Crutchfield back. I think I'll get the stock upgrade from CJ Pony. Kudos man!

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"I prayed to God he would change Johnny but his plan was to change me"

 

Gene Stallings

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THis subject strikes fear in my heart everytime I see "door speakers". I wondered why my door panels bow out at the bottom a bit. So I peeked in there and saw some cob job of clear lexan home made adapters and carriage bolts and almost fainted. Thats for another day lol. And I walked away. When I get new door panels and take mine off I will post for the Laugh of the Day feature.

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Does anyone have the measurements of where to drill the holes for the boots? The pics earlier in this thread give me an idea sort of. Also, by the looks of it I will need to either remove the doors to drill or find an RAD (right angle drill) to punch the holes? Is this correct. Any help would be appreciated.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Does anyone have the measurements of where to drill the holes for the boots? The pics earlier in this thread give me an idea sort of. Also, by the looks of it I will need to either remove the doors to drill or find an RAD (right angle drill) to punch the holes? Is this correct. Any help would be appreciated.

Jason,

My cars are about 9 miles from here but will be out there later today and can get some pictures and measurements for the holes and placement.

You might be able to use a Greenlee type hole punch like they use for electrical panels. Expensive to buy but maybe you can find an electrician that would do them cheap. You have to have like a 3/8" pilot hole for the bolt to go through.

I just went back and looked at the install instructions for the speakers that I scanned and put in this thread earlier. They state " Drill 1 1/4" Dia. hole from existing dimple". So there should be a dimple in the sheet metal to show where the holes go. I agree with that hole size for the A post but the boot end that goes to the door is much larger. They do not say what size for the hole in the door. As usual factory instructions not correct. The boot looks like the hole in the door needs to be 2". I pulled a NOS set of the boots and wires out to make sure I had the right ones. I think there are dimples where the holes for the screws go in the door that hold the blocks with the wires.

Yes you would have to pull the door to get in there with a hole saw or drill. Or maybe pull the front fender and drill with the door shut. Your only other option would be to use a carbide burr and just grind the hole out to size. Shavings would get everywhere and they rust quickly if not vacuumed up.

Go look for the dimples that mark the positions and open and read the install instructions early in this thread.

I will still try and get some pictures and measurements later today. The boots and wires have been on eBay lately very cheap, $30.00 for two sets on one sale.

 

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Does anyone have the measurements of where to drill the holes for the boots? The pics earlier in this thread give me an idea sort of. Also, by the looks of it I will need to either remove the doors to drill or find an RAD (right angle drill) to punch the holes? Is this correct. Any help would be appreciated.

Jason,

My cars are about 9 miles from here but will be out there later today and can get some pictures and measurements for the holes and placement.

You might be able to use a Greenlee type hole punch like they use for electrical panels. Expensive to buy but maybe you can find an electrician that would do them cheap. You have to have like a 3/8" pilot hole for the bolt to go through.

I just went back and looked at the install instructions for the speakers that I scanned and put in this thread earlier. They state " Drill 1 1/4" Dia. hole from existing dimple". So there should be a dimple in the sheet metal to show where the holes go. I agree with that hole size for the A post but the boot end that goes to the door is much larger. They do not say what size for the hole in the door. As usual factory instructions not correct. The boot looks like the hole in the door needs to be 2". I pulled a NOS set of the boots and wires out to make sure I had the right ones. I think there are dimples where the holes for the screws go in the door that hold the blocks with the wires.

Yes you would have to pull the door to get in there with a hole saw or drill. Or maybe pull the front fender and drill with the door shut. Your only other option would be to use a carbide burr and just grind the hole out to size. Shavings would get everywhere and they rust quickly if not vacuumed up.

Go look for the dimples that mark the positions and open and read the install instructions early in this thread.

I will still try and get some pictures and measurements later today. The boots and wires have been on eBay lately very cheap, $30.00 for two sets on one sale.

 

David

 

Thanks David. I do have the direction printed out and was able to find a dimple last night on the car but not one on the door. I like the idea of using the Greenlee hole punch. And additional photos and measurements would be appreciated just so I am sure prior putting any holes in the car. I was able to get a set of boots.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Does anyone have the measurements of where to drill the holes for the boots? The pics earlier in this thread give me an idea sort of. Also, by the looks of it I will need to either remove the doors to drill or find an RAD (right angle drill) to punch the holes? Is this correct. Any help would be appreciated.

Jason,

My cars are about 9 miles from here but will be out there later today and can get some pictures and measurements for the holes and placement.

You might be able to use a Greenlee type hole punch like they use for electrical panels. Expensive to buy but maybe you can find an electrician that would do them cheap. You have to have like a 3/8" pilot hole for the bolt to go through.

I just went back and looked at the install instructions for the speakers that I scanned and put in this thread earlier. They state " Drill 1 1/4" Dia. hole from existing dimple". So there should be a dimple in the sheet metal to show where the holes go. I agree with that hole size for the A post but the boot end that goes to the door is much larger. They do not say what size for the hole in the door. As usual factory instructions not correct. The boot looks like the hole in the door needs to be 2". I pulled a NOS set of the boots and wires out to make sure I had the right ones. I think there are dimples where the holes for the screws go in the door that hold the blocks with the wires.

Yes you would have to pull the door to get in there with a hole saw or drill. Or maybe pull the front fender and drill with the door shut. Your only other option would be to use a carbide burr and just grind the hole out to size. Shavings would get everywhere and they rust quickly if not vacuumed up.

Go look for the dimples that mark the positions and open and read the install instructions early in this thread.

I will still try and get some pictures and measurements later today. The boots and wires have been on eBay lately very cheap, $30.00 for two sets on one sale.

 

David

 

Thanks David. I do have the direction printed out and was able to find a dimple last night on the car but not one on the door. I like the idea of using the Greenlee hole punch. And additional photos and measurements would be appreciated just so I am sure prior putting any holes in the car. I was able to get a set of boots.

Great that you got the boots did you also get the wires?

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I did not get the wires. I will be using new speaker wire.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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I did not get the wires. I will be using new speaker wire.

 

Well dummy me. Had been working on the 5 building manufacturers quoting my garage this morning. Got it all on spread sheet and decided to take a break and go get my license plate sticker that runs out this month. It is only a mile from where the cars are stored now in a friends shop. I got there and did not have the darn door key and he was not in. So I did not get the pictures and measurements. I will be back in town tomorrow at bank so I will remember the key and do it then.

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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No prob. Thanks.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Ok made it out to the shop again with the key this time, 85 deg. here today. I took a couple pictures of a car with door speakers with the front fender off. Removing the front fender is much better solution than removing the door. I will also allow you clean all the leaves and stuff that gets inside there. You have to take a half dozen bolts out from grill, the ones under the hood the ones on the bottom of the fender, the fender brace and the one that goes in from the door. Not a bad job once you do it.

I put dimensions on the .xps attached. Let me know if you need more info I will try to help.

The .xps file does not show up but put in twice. Let me know if it does not work.

Ok when I looked at the post the .xps does not show up.

You can see in the picture I took measurement from the lower hinge on the door to the bottom of the hole and added 1/2 the hole. So from the top of the hinge to the center of the hole in the door is 3 5/16" (3.312").

For the A post hole from the top of the bottom hinge mounted to A post to the center of the hole is 3 1/16" (3.062). From the rear of the A post to the center of the hole is 1 11/16" (1.687"). There should be a dimple in both positions that is what the factory used when they cut the holes.

David

DSC_2280.thumb.JPG.6f5915773fb8308e49c1b9251372ac98.JPG

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I used a Harbor Freight stepper bit on mine. Jacked up the front of the car, took off both front wheels, pulled the rear plastic inserts, and just reached in with the drill to punch the holes through the doors while in their closed positions. I think I also used a headband light, as well. Figure out the right diameter of the holes, locate it on the stepper bit, and count how many steps it takes to get to the right diameter. You can almost do it with your eyes closed (but I wouldn't recommend it... and use appropriate eye protection).

 

I remember it took me longer to decide which drill was best suited for the project, than it did to actually drill the holes. I wound up using my ancient Skil 3/8" corded drill (still uses a chuck key, even) because the battery pack on my cordless drills kept getting stuck on the hinges - plus it was narrow enough to fit between the fender and A-pillar (which is a fairly tight area as you can see in David's pics above).

 

With the doors open, figure out where you want the holes, dimple the doors with a nail set/sink tool, then close the doors and punch some holes. When you're done, make sure to suck the shavings out of the bottoms of the doors, lest they rust later. ;)

Eric

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I used a Harbor Freight stepper bit on mine. Jacked up the front of the car, took off both front wheels, pulled the rear plastic inserts, and just reached in with the drill to punch the holes through the doors while in their closed positions. I think I also used a headband light, as well. Figure out the right diameter of the holes, locate it on the stepper bit, and count how many steps it takes to get to the right diameter. You can almost do it with your eyes closed (but I wouldn't recommend it... and use appropriate eye protection).

 

I remember it took me longer to decide which drill was best suited for the project, than it did to actually drill the holes. I wound up using my ancient Skil 3/8" corded drill (still uses a chuck key, even) because the battery pack on my cordless drills kept getting stuck on the hinges - plus it was narrow enough to fit between the fender and A-pillar (which is a fairly tight area as you can see in David's pics above).

 

With the doors open, figure out where you want the holes, dimple the doors with a nail set/sink tool, then close the doors and punch some holes. When you're done, make sure to suck the shavings out of the bottoms of the doors, lest they rust later. ;)

Wow I never would have thought could get through the tight space with the fender on. Never had to drill mine they all had them. The factory holes could not have been any rougher so how you do it will probably be better than they did.

 

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Oh, it's tight for sure. ;) Being 6'5" and pretty thick has it's pros & cons. Pro: long arms... Con: not a lot of room to stuff my big @ss in there. Pro: the stepper bit really makes short work of getting the holes sized once the 'pilot' hole breaks through... Con: you can't really 'see' the stepper bit working, so it's important to know how deep the right size hole is before you start. Make sure to check progress frequently to ensure you get the right sized holes.

 

Now that I think about it, I seem to remember there being some dimples on the doors already in the right location. Based on your pictures, my holes wound up in the same spots.

 

The stepper bit actually did a pretty good job on the holes, but like with any holes you drill through metal, you'll want to clean up the edges inside and out with a small file, to take the jagged flashing off. Brush on some primer or sealer and/or a little bit of body color paint to the exposed edges of the new holes to prevent rust from starting under the grommet after they're installed. A small bottle of touch-up paint works great for this - a spray can is overkill and will have overspray everywhere, of course.

 

I know someone might think that using a 90-degree drill might work with the doors fully open. I think the biggest issue there is the depth of the bit. Sure, the 90-degree drill head will fit, but you have to consider the overall length from the tip of the bit to the backside of the drill head. I bought a 90-degree drill specifically for that purpose, and have never actually used it as a result of it not fitting. I even swiped a 90-degree air grinder/drill (old school chuck w/key) from the Auto Hobby Shop before it closed (OK - so I forgot it was in my trunk... :whistling: ), and it was just too tight even using the short/fat stepper bit from Harbor Freight.

 

That's just what worked for me.

Eric

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The dimples should be there that is what the factory used to put the holes in by. They used a hole saw from the looks of the hole and one hell of a burr. He did not see the dimples so maybe the measurements will help him find them.

On my vert where they put the hole for the top switch the slug from the saw was still attached to the dash.

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone used these replacement speakers for the doors. I don't want to cut anything. They claim they will excising openings. Here the link.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/ken-harrison-door-speaker-pair-1969-1973/p/SPK10/

 

 

John J

 

For whats its worth I just got a pair of these. THey did not fit well without trimming some metal in door to get them in. Then when I got them in one was buzzy and rattley as all hell. Pretty crappy sounding. I guess at $42 you cant expect Bose Audio here. I'd pass on them.

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Thanks David for the measurements and help. Was able to locate all the dimples with those measurements. My eyes are not that great anymore so that helped. Got the holes drilled using a close quarter right angle attachment on my drill and a step bit. The door were not bad but the a pillars were tight. Got the passenger side speaker in and mounted. Went with aftermarket boots so I only needed an 11/16 hole. Was able to fit some nice 5x7 Alpines into the doors. Not doing grills though. I used a meat jaccard to perforate the lower carpet to let the sound through.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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