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Slicks at the back


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Hi,

I ve been offered Hoosier 30/9-15 slicks for my Mach 1.

Would they fit ?

 

What offset /BS for the wheel would be recommended ?

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Yes, they would fit, they're the equivalent of a 225 width tire. 7-inch wheel with 4-inch backspacing.

 

A word of caution, our tires are typically around 25 or 26 inch diameter, a 30 inch tire will significantly increase your effective rear end ratio.

 

Another word, mixing bias and radial can cause handling problems.

 

My final, they won't be street legal.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Yes, they would fit, they're the equivalent of a 225 width tire. 7-inch wheel with 4-inch backspacing.

 

A word of caution, our tires are typically around 25 or 26 inch diameter, a 30 inch tire will significantly increase your effective rear end ratio.

 

Another word, mixing bias and radial can cause handling problems.

 

My final, they won't be street legal.

 

Hi Thanks a lot of this information.

Street legality is no problem if I can take the tyres inside ( I have folding back seat ) to the race track and change them there under the car.

These tyres would be for strips only.

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Yes, they would fit, they're the equivalent of a 225 width tire. 7-inch wheel with 4-inch backspacing.

 

A word of caution, our tires are typically around 25 or 26 inch diameter, a 30 inch tire will significantly increase your effective rear end ratio.

 

Another word, mixing bias and radial can cause handling problems.

 

My final, they won't be street legal.

 

Hi Thanks a lot of this information.

Street legality is no problem if I can take the tyres inside ( I have folding back seat ) to the race track and change them there under the car.

These tyres would be for strips only.

 

One thing more..

what tyre size you actually refer with 225 width tyre with 7 inch wheel ( not 17 " )????

Can you give an example of a tyre to grab your idea better !

 

Thanks

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You'll want wheels that are 15-inch diameter, 7 inches wide, and with a 4-inch backspacing.

 

The metric equivalent of that tire (if made) would be 225/85x15.


For drag racing you generally want a lower effective final drive ratio, for quicker launches and acceleration. The higher effective final drive ratio of that tire will slow (maybe even bog) your launches and acceleration.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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make a 30" cardboard template or two and look at your clearances. Depending upon ride height of your vehicle they may or may not fit. By Making templates and positioning them you can get a good idea of the necessary backspacing and clearances you have or need.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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30x9-15

 

two possible way to read, diffrence comes by the usage of a tire.

 

Drag tire

30 = is the height of the tire

9 = thread width

15 = rim diameter

 

 

street tire

30 = is the height of the tire as above

9 = section width

15 = rim diameter as above

 

For example my M/T ET Drag tires #3056ST are made for drag racing. They are told to be 29.5x9-15. Their thread is 8.9" and the section widht is 11.4". According this my 29.5x9-15 drag tire equals 29.5x11.5-15 street tire.

 

Take a look from here:

First hoosier I was able to find, thread is 9" and section is 11.8", that equals 30x12-15 street tire.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hoo-18209

 

here's similar tires as my Mach 1 uses:

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mtt-3056st

 

Just food for thoughts.

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30x9-15

 

two possible way to read, diffrence comes by the usage of a tire.

 

Drag tire

30 = is the height of the tire

9 = thread width

15 = rim diameter

 

 

street tire

30 = is the height of the tire as above

9 = section width

15 = rim diameter as above

 

For example my M/T ET Drag tires #3056ST are made for drag racing. They are told to be 29.5x9-15. Their thread is 8.9" and the section widht is 11.4". According this my 29.5x9-15 drag tire equals 29.5x11.5-15 street tire.

 

Take a look from here:

First hoosier I was able to find, thread is 9" and section is 11.8", that equals 30x12-15 street tire.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hoo-18209

Tire Diameter: 29.50 in.

Section Width: 11.80 in.

Tread Width: 9.00 in.

Minimum Recommended Wheel Width: 8.00 in.

Maximum Recommended Wheel Width: 10.00 in.

With drag tires you don't want to run with 7" wide wheels, 15 x 9 wheel would be a perfect match.

 

 

here's similar tires as my Mach 1 uses:

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mtt-3056st

 

Just food for thoughts.

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on a 9" rim you will probably need 5.25 back spacing. My current rear tires are 28.5 inches tall and just a bit wider than what you are considering. At the front of the wheel well I had to cut and move the inner fenderwell to make room for my tires to fit.

 

I would definitely recommend you do some sort of mock up before buying rims and tires that size.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Slicks are sticky - Drag Strips are sticky - Your car hooks up like it never has before and something goes "snap".

 

I am not saying not to do it - I am saying trailer the car to the track and have fun and if "snap" happens you are not stranded.

 

We had a gentleman at that always brought an empty trailer to the track down in Jupiter Fl. Every Saturday he got paid pretty well to haul someone home.

 

I would race it a few times with street tires if you have never done it before.

 

- Paul of MO

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Slicks are sticky - Drag Strips are sticky - Your car hooks up like it never has before and something goes "snap".

 

I am not saying not to do it - I am saying trailer the car to the track and have fun and if "snap" happens you are not stranded.

 

We had a gentleman at that always brought an empty trailer to the track down in Jupiter Fl. Every Saturday he got paid pretty well to haul someone home.

 

I would race it a few times with street tires if you have never done it before.

 

- Paul of MO

 

THank you all gentlemen !

 

You have brought good views to master the thing.

I try first with some wheel/ tyre combinations and try to estimate the right combination in my case ( the back axle is not a standard 9" which brings another interesting element to this case). I wonder if somebody can recognize what it is. It is attached with a Detroit locker.

IMAG0682.thumb.jpg.fd675c6999fdfb6b48e863416f53c16b.jpg

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Hard to tell without a better picture of the carrier, but I think you might have a Lincoln 9 3/8 rear end in your car. It might just be an aftermarket housing like Speedway, Currie and a bunch of others sell.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Hard to tell without a better picture of the carrier, but I think you might have a Lincoln 9 3/8 rear end in your car. It might just be an aftermarket housing like Speedway, Currie and a bunch of others sell.

 

Thanks again of your comment.

How can I check it further from oitside ?

What could bebthe ratio - with 3000rpm the car runs 60 mph on the 4th gear.

seems that the rear end is sturdy enough for my use.

Meanwhile I tested M/T's 28/10.5-15 tyres with Billetspecialties wheel combination which came available near by and it seems to fit nicely. There is half an inch space to the leaf spring and the tyre keeps nicely within the rear fender.

30" tyre would mean a lot of work to fit it there...

 

With this wheels offset I need to add a 1" spacer but thats it !

IMG_1156.JPG.dcad971ec41792c9e3c00a836b20baca.JPG

IMG_1157.JPG.c7498cf9aa60adee0999cad02a5b33eb.JPG

IMG_1158.JPG.4f8cd6cc94117791f95f1d1f7884ba67.JPG

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can you get a picture of the carrier from the front?

 

I suspect you'll have the tire hit the fenderwell when the suspension compresses as you are currently set up. Spacing outward is going to make it worse.

 

I hope your leaf springs are stiff as hell. You might want to fabricate some beefy bump stops.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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can you get a picture of the carrier from the front?

 

I suspect you'll have the tire hit the fenderwell when the suspension compresses as you are currently set up. Spacing outward is going to make it worse.

 

I hope your leaf springs are stiff as hell. You might want to fabricate some beefy bump stops.

 

The photo shows you the installation WITH the one inch spacer already.

 

The leaf springs are Calverts split mono leaf + Caltracs + Calvert adj. shocks

 

I try to get a photo from the front.

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1" spacers, Plus 400hp & bb torque, manual, drag slicks... Are you using pro spacer style spacers which are bolted in or are you running 3" studs? I am not feeling comfortable with the spacers, slicks and strip combination. Might work and can also rip the studs out of aluminum spacer.

 

Driveshaft safetyloops can be welded from a round profile pipe and have them welded between the front frames and same to rear depends too how the frames are connected. Friend of mine did similar setup from chromemoly to his '73 Mach1 and it came pretty good. He lives at Ylojarvi I can arrange you a garage visit if you want to.

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1" spacers, Plus 400hp & bb torque, manual, drag slicks... Are you using pro spacer style spacers which are bolted in or are you running 3" studs? I am not feeling comfortable with the spacers, slicks and strip combination. Might work and can also rip the studs out of aluminum spacer.

 

Driveshaft safetyloops can be welded from a round profile pipe and have them welded between the front frames and same to rear depends too how the frames are connected. Friend of mine did similar setup from chromemoly to his '73 Mach1 and it came pretty good. He lives at Ylojarvi I can arrange you a garage visit if you want to.

 

Have someone look at the spacers and studs and give you a safety opinion. I would not race this car this way. If you snap the studs off you can imagine what might happen next. You do not want to hurt yourself or anyone else.

 

Paul of Mo

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1" spacers, Plus 400hp & bb torque, manual, drag slicks... Are you using pro spacer style spacers which are bolted in or are you running 3" studs? I am not feeling comfortable with the spacers, slicks and strip combination. Might work and can also rip the studs out of aluminum spacer.

 

Driveshaft safetyloops can be welded from a round profile pipe and have them welded between the front frames and same to rear depends too how the frames are connected. Friend of mine did similar setup from chromemoly to his '73 Mach1 and it came pretty good. He lives at Ylojarvi I can arrange you a garage visit if you want to.

 

Hi,

I am thinking of Eibach Pro Spacers...

A garage visit to your friend would be great. I will call you.


here is 28x12.5" with 10" wheel. Flares are rolled though...


here is 28x12.5" with 10" wheel. Flares are rolled though...

 

 

Hi

with a standard car ( without flare opening) 10.5 " may be the maximum width with a proper wheel offset ?

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1" spacers, Plus 400hp & bb torque, manual, drag slicks... Are you using pro spacer style spacers which are bolted in or are you running 3" studs? I am not feeling comfortable with the spacers, slicks and strip combination. Might work and can also rip the studs out of aluminum spacer.

 

Driveshaft safetyloops can be welded from a round profile pipe and have them welded between the front frames and same to rear depends too how the frames are connected. Friend of mine did similar setup from chromemoly to his '73 Mach1 and it came pretty good. He lives at Ylojarvi I can arrange you a garage visit if you want to.

 

Your message really woke me up this morning ;)

I had to call one friend running a Ford Futura 1/4 mile in 11 second times since many years.

He told me that actually he has one inch spacers in his car and he had no complaints / fear of using them providing that you assemble them good...

 

Anyway there must be all kind of spacers available and in youtube you can find scary stories of ripped off wheels etc. The main thing causing these always seem to have been a poor assembly.

 

Funny - but Eibach for example provides spacers to be used in Porsches as well.

 

One thing I fully agree with everybody is that if you can run without spacers is a better thing.

 

Regarding running strips versus racing with spacers I think drag racing does not load the studs that much than cornering all the time on a race track ?

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on a 9" rim you will probably need 5.25 back spacing. My current rear tires are 28.5 inches tall and just a bit wider than what you are considering. At the front of the wheel well I had to cut and move the inner fenderwell to make room for my tires to fit.

 

I would definitely recommend you do some sort of mock up before buying rims and tires that size.

 

Hi,

I took some photos on the garage floor - hope you can see something....

There is the word " DIF" in the front housing - I could see...

The axle end seems to be 31 splines.

I measured the ratio and it is something like 3.5...

 

Regarding the Eibach spacers - I measured the axle hub studs ( coming out of the brake drum centre) and they are 23 mm. The spacer is 25 mm. Should be no problem to have the studs/nuts nicely within the spacer housing to get good contact on the spacer/ wheel centers which is most important.

 

I made some measurements while waiting the spacers to come and the wheel with the 28/ 10.5 tyre sits nicely inside the rear fender on the jacks having space 1" at the front and 2" at the back.

 

The moment of truth is when I get the car standing on its slick tyres.

IMG_1182.JPG.8841ac1358cb587aa9f8792c9ac161d9.JPG

IMG_1181.JPG.ee7a62d0977fb277e5ff494249a621dc.JPG

IMG_1172.JPG.d13526b50e62c85e98ddd9487d27c5fe.JPG

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I be4lieve that is a 9 3/8 or sometimes called a 9 1/2 unit.

 

You can see one in this video clip. As I understand, they use larger bearings and may be noticeably stronger than a 9", but parts are hard to find. On the plus side a 9" carrier will drop into the housing if you ever need to replace it.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Wow that is awesome stuff [WINKING FACE][THUMBS UP SIGN] weldone. Regards Lars

 

Sendt fra min E2303 med Tapatalk

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73:whistling:

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Do the first mock up without spacer. Just check how it sits, if it contacts the inner wheel well then don't install the stud bolts.

 

Eibach is one the best manufacturers for the spacers. But, all the sanctioning bodies does not allow to use wheel spacers f.ex. NHRA. Now wonder why? Because the might broke and then it's a possible problem.

 

Paint the spacers black from the parts you can see them so probably no one will not notice it f.ex. On a drag strip day.

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Do the first mock up without spacer. Just check how it sits, if it contacts the inner wheel well then don't install the stud bolts.

 

Eibach is one the best manufacturers for the spacers. But, all the sanctioning bodies does not allow to use wheel spacers f.ex. NHRA. Now wonder why? Because the might broke and then it's a possible problem.

 

Paint the spacers black from the parts you can see them so probably no one will not notice it f.ex. On a drag strip day.

 

well... I wanted to check this and found some material . NHRA actually allows the use of spacers and advises the fixing of the studs to be done in a certain way as described by a comment below:

 

"Nevs is correct, the NHRA rule book is worded so that the minimum acceptable amount the stud has to engage the hex portion of the lug (the strongest part of the lug) is an amount equal to the stud's diameter.

 

Pic from the NHRA rule book attached.

 

True, engaging ALL the lug threads (and the stud hanging past the lug body) is better, but it's not required to be legal. The minimum requirement is what the diagram shows. "


Do the first mock up without spacer. Just check how it sits, if it contacts the inner wheel well then don't install the stud bolts.

 

Eibach is one the best manufacturers for the spacers. But, all the sanctioning bodies does not allow to use wheel spacers f.ex. NHRA. Now wonder why? Because the might broke and then it's a possible problem.

 

Paint the spacers black from the parts you can see them so probably no one will not notice it f.ex. On a drag strip day.

 

well... I wanted to check this and found some material . NHRA actually allows the use of spacers and advises the fixing of the studs to be done in a certain way as described by a comment below:

 

"Nevs is correct, the NHRA rule book is worded so that the minimum acceptable amount the stud has to engage the hex portion of the lug (the strongest part of the lug) is an amount equal to the stud's diameter.

 

Pic from the NHRA rule book attached.

 

True, engaging ALL the lug threads (and the stud hanging past the lug body) is better, but it's not required to be legal. The minimum requirement is what the diagram shows. "

 

... and here the text also MENTIONING the wheel spacer.

424854385_ScreenShot2016-04-14at10_30_01PM.thumb.png.5c03adbd0b72f7632d58bca82fc7d9a9.png

1107644408_ScreenShot2016-04-14at10_47_58PM.thumb.png.bc34aab40e01ffd72d8ef7bdc4b147b8.png

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