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Slicks at the back


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I'll be damned. I checked the rulebook NHRA and national Finnish Hot Rod Association's (FHRA) rulebook - uses the same picture as above. Spacers are allowed. But, they do not mention a word from spacers like prospacer which are bolted on. Rulebook only states the text above that the studs needs to be long enough.

 

Obviously they are allowed too since they are not banned?? On road racing circuit I've seen as the prospacer does not hold the wheel attached. But that is a whole different motorsports.

 

Intresting for sure. Ford Fairmont guy you mentioned above has been on 11.002s on quarter and it's been beaten to "death" for many years. If there are spacers in that car, gosh they are GOOD spacers. I have driven the car 160mph in the past, it surely is capable of doing low 11s on quarter and 166 mph on standing mile, its funny car (it only needs a bigger engine - owner is planning a 427w with P-38 heads from Kaase).

 

Have you mocked up the wheels/tires yet?


I am not able to modify my last message, but I need to make a correction.

Ford Fairmont guy is not beaten to death many years but his car has been beaten!! :whistling:

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I'll be damned. I checked the rulebook NHRA and national Finnish Hot Rod Association's (FHRA) rulebook - uses the same picture as above. Spacers are allowed. But, they do not mention a word from spacers like prospacer which are bolted on. Rulebook only states the text above that the studs needs to be long enough.

 

Obviously they are allowed too since they are not banned?? On road racing circuit I've seen as the prospacer does not hold the wheel attached. But that is a whole different motorsports.

 

Intresting for sure. Ford Fairmont guy you mentioned above has been on 11.002s on quarter and it's been beaten to "death" for many years. If there are spacers in that car, gosh they are GOOD spacers. I have driven the car 160mph in the past, it surely is capable of doing low 11s on quarter and 166 mph on standing mile, its funny car (it only needs a bigger engine - owner is planning a 427w with P-38 heads from Kaase).

 

Have you mocked up the wheels/tires yet?


I am not able to modify my last message, but I need to make a correction.

Ford Fairmont guy is not beaten to death many years but his car has been beaten!! :whistling:

 

As I bought the spacers already I will now wait to get them and fit them in place and lower the car on wheels...

If not succesful - then there are new wheels and spacers available - I hope not ;) !

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I'll be damned. I checked the rulebook NHRA and national Finnish Hot Rod Association's (FHRA) rulebook - uses the same picture as above. Spacers are allowed. But, they do not mention a word from spacers like prospacer which are bolted on. Rulebook only states the text above that the studs needs to be long enough.

 

Obviously they are allowed too since they are not banned?? On road racing circuit I've seen as the prospacer does not hold the wheel attached. But that is a whole different motorsports.

 

Intresting for sure. Ford Fairmont guy you mentioned above has been on 11.002s on quarter and it's been beaten to "death" for many years. If there are spacers in that car, gosh they are GOOD spacers. I have driven the car 160mph in the past, it surely is capable of doing low 11s on quarter and 166 mph on standing mile, its funny car (it only needs a bigger engine - owner is planning a 427w with P-38 heads from Kaase).

 

Have you mocked up the wheels/tires yet?


I am not able to modify my last message, but I need to make a correction.

Ford Fairmont guy is not beaten to death many years but his car has been beaten!! :whistling:

 

As I bought the spacers already I will now wait to get them and fit them in place and lower the car on wheels...

If not succesful - then there are new wheels and spacers available - I hope not ;) !

 

Hi again,

I just got the pro spacers and they fit nicely. Thew original studs leave 1 mm space between the spacer and the wheel hub which is enough. Important is that they shall not protrude over the spacer line.

 

With these tyrwas you have to hammer the front part of the wheel well a bit and the question is - how much clearance is needed between the tyre and any body structure ?

IMG_1119.JPG.645f844cbe2797b91896cec5dc9c3384.JPG

IMG_1120.JPG.b245c3d85d14731d82586adb8cfacc53.JPG

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If that is your fuel line in the picture, you need to relocate it for safety purposes.

 

Between the tire and the inside of the fenderwell, you should have a 1/2" or more as the axle will shift side to side slightly. Between the outer tire and wheel well lip, I like a similar amount of space.

 

You also have to allow for suspension travel as while the tire may clear sitting still, when you romp on it or hit a dip in the road and compress the suspension, it will contact the front edge of the wheel lip.

 

I widened my wheel tubs on the inside front, it took a day but wasn't difficult. Just rip the wheel well from appx 1/3 of the way up and then make a 90 degree cut to the inside to free it up and then upward to allow the metal to move and overlap about 2/3 the length of the first cut. Push it in flat against the frame rails, weld in a pie shaped filler piece and weld up the lower cut and inner put that now is overlapped. Seam seal everything and undercoat it and reassemble your interior. If you are careful you won't even lose your rear seat belt mounts, but I did on the driver side.

 

osd4w0.jpg

 

ig9js2.jpg

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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If that is your fuel line in the picture, you need to relocate it for safety purposes.

 

Between the tire and the inside of the fenderwell, you should have a 1/2" or more as the axle will shift side to side slightly. Between the outer tire and wheel well lip, I like a similar amount of space.

 

You also have to allow for suspension travel as while the tire may clear sitting still, when you romp on it or hit a dip in the road and compress the suspension, it will contact the front edge of the wheel lip.

 

I widened my wheel tubs on the inside front, it took a day but wasn't difficult. Just rip the wheel well from appx 1/3 of the way up and then make a 90 degree cut to the inside to free it up and then upward to allow the metal to move and overlap about 2/3 the length of the first cut. Push it in flat against the frame rails, weld in a pie shaped filler piece and weld up the lower cut and inner put that now is overlapped. Seam seal everything and undercoat it and reassemble your interior. If you are careful you won't even lose your rear seat belt mounts, but I did on the driver side.

 

osd4w0.jpg

 

ig9js2.jpg

Thanks a lot of your comment Jeff !

 

Yes - i thought as well that I need to move the fuel line a bit .

The photo is on the driver's side and the clearance is ab. 1/2 inch.

On the other side it is nearly an inch but I think when I move the fuel line I can hammer also the drivers side more to get the inch also on that side - we will see.

By the way I already tried the slicks the first time to accelerate the car - there was no slip at all - the grip was tremendous compared to the Cooper Cobras !!!!

It seems that I need 200 hp more - or a new clutch :)

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