Things to do while the engine is out

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McDermitt, NV
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1973 Convertible H Code, 351C 2V FMX
While reading another thread about checking the rag joints, which I'd never even heard about before, I got to thinking about other projects that might be 1000% easier if the engine is out. Any suggestions? Not that I want to increase the time before I can actually drive the 'vert again, but while I've got it out, what else should I do to take advantage of the situation? Of course, cleaning up the engine bay is a given. :)

Doc

 
new rear main seal and front seal on the engine. new front seal on the transmission. new brake lines if needed. pull and clean and paint brake booster.

all that comes to mind right now besides the obvious of scrubbing. down the engine bay and trans tunnel and repainting as needed.

I like to strip it down as much as possible. remove all wiring, lines, brackets and paint each part separately. new seals, gaskets, clamps where possible and it ends up looking better than new.

 
re-route all of your brake lines in there. especially the one that goes from the driver side to the passenger side! it took me a 5 foot hose just to reach the other shock tower. it was a hard line to bend while the engine was out.

 
Wire harness restoration,

Power booster check with a hand held vacuum pump make sure it's not blown, clean it up and detail.

Steering box clean up and restore.

Replace firewall brake lines

Replace fuel vent system.

With drive line out, service the u-joints on driveshaft.

New fuel line.

Service rear axle.

Service brake prop valve.

Service windshield wiper arm and motor.

 
I got to thinking about other projects.... Any suggestions? :)

Doc
Normal people like to replace their rusty battery tray, repaint the engine bay, fix up other stuff under the hood while they are at it.

However, overachievers like me just keep taking parts off until all that is left is a shell. Then you mount it to a rotisserie, after that--lots of sandblasting, rust repair, etc. Then get your wallet out because you are going to spend a lot of money.

;)

 
Hey Doc!!!... nice subjet is this :p... I LOVE engine bays! jjeje... and you question is very very right.. there are a lot of things that you can do now or never i could say...

the replacing of all kinda lines the car have is 20 times easier this way, with no engineand trans in the way.... I´m not sure if it is cheap or not, but once you start replacing lines, you will do ALL of them... Be careful when you disconect any brake line from the distribution block... nuts are always rusted and the block is made of bronze (cupper? dont know the english naming) and it is easy to destroy...

A good engine bay treatment we talked before several times and yes THIS IS THE TIME! jeje...

Check your shock towers from cracks, check for rust on the bottom corners of the cowl...

DO EVERYTHING IN ORDER!!... and take notes of everything you´re taking off... you are gonna be painting the bay so, if lines and wires are off... it´s gonna come up great! ;)

Another thing you can do is to change all ruber insulators, seals and grommets down there...

It is a nice time to do mantainence to the steering column too... Ohh!! your SHIFTER!!!... Is your car manual?? if it is, the transmision shifter assy too.. Clutch equalizer??

Bottom line... you can work a hole year down there :p

I´m here to help in anything Doc! Remember!!

 
Doc check the o-ring on trans tube for leakage, lube the bushings on the front swaybar and now's a god time to clean all the engine bolts. I used a 6" wire wheel on my grinder or and electric drill if you don't have a grinder.

Alan L

 
Hey guys, I'm trying to paint my engine compartment w/the engine being there,how should I clean up the area by brake booster? It's very conjusted n hard to reach between hose n brake lines. I used oven cleaner,the grease is coming off,but what should I use to reach between brake lines to clean up that area? I don't wanna take off master cylinder or brake lines.

When I took off the battery tray,I noticed part of the apron where tray sits is rusted out, should I just cut that piece off and have a new welded, or is there an easier solution?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

IMAG0311.jpg

IMAG0312.jpg

 
Hey guys, I'm trying to paint my engine compartment w/the engine being there,how should I clean up the area by brake booster? It's very conjusted n hard to reach between hose n brake lines. I used oven cleaner,the grease is coming off,but what should I use to reach between brake lines to clean up that area? I don't wanna take off master cylinder or brake lines.

When I took off the battery tray,I noticed part of the apron where tray sits is rusted out, should I just cut that piece off and have a new welded, or is there an easier solution?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hey there!!... You´re totally right... There are 2 places where you cant do a great job...

This part you are trying to clean and the lower cowl are imposible actually...

If you dont want to unmount the brake system up there it´s gonna be hard... The fact is that under the booster, rust is common so, you may do a nice asthetic job but the important area to clean is unreachable if you have the booster, the master cylinder and the distribution block attached there...

If i were you, actually, when i did almost the same job you are doing... Painting the engine bay with the engine on... i took everything off there... did it right and bottom line... the hardest part of doing it right is taking the air off the brake lines after everything is in place...

For the under battery tray part, again, do it once and right... you dont have to change the hole apron but a good sheet of metal there is the way to go...

Fiberglass... NO... Bondo... NOOOOOOO!!!! jee

 
Hi Damian, I'm going to fix it right the first time like you said by getting a new piece of sheet metal welded. I'm also going to try and take out the Brake Booster not only to paint it, but to make sure there is no RUST developing underneath. I just hope I dont brake the bolts that are holding the Distribution Block (PB Blaster might help in loosening those).

Thanks Damian,

Hey there!!... You´re totally right... There are 2 places where you cant do a great job...

This part you are trying to clean and the lower cowl are imposible actually...

If you dont want to unmount the brake system up there it´s gonna be hard... The fact is that under the booster, rust is common so, you may do a nice asthetic job but the important area to clean is unreachable if you have the booster, the master cylinder and the distribution block attached there...

If i were you, actually, when i did almost the same job you are doing... Painting the engine bay with the engine on... i took everything off there... did it right and bottom line... the hardest part of doing it right is taking the air off the brake lines after everything is in place...

For the under battery tray part, again, do it once and right... you dont have to change the hole apron but a good sheet of metal there is the way to go...

Fiberglass... NO... Bondo... NOOOOOOO!!!! jee

 
Hi Damian, I'm going to fix it right the first time like you said by getting a new piece of sheet metal welded. I'm also going to try and take out the Brake Booster not only to paint it, but to make sure there is no RUST developing underneath. I just hope I dont brake the bolts that are holding the Distribution Block (PB Blaster might help in loosening those).

Thanks Damian,
You are in the way to go then my friend... You know.. this kind of jobs are the ones that is better to do it once and forget about it...

You´re right about the bolts attaching to the Dist. Block... Be VERY patient and try to use the right stuff (sorry but i dont know what a PB blaster is!)... You can also use those bolt loosen oils that are sold in cans... several times for several days until the oil manages to go inside the nut/bolt thing...

Also is VERY important to get the right hand tool to apply good muscle to that bolts... Don´t know why but all the bolts in the brake lines appears to be made of some soft iron and if you dont have the right tool, you are going to get a lot of headaches later ;)

Another thing... first loose the bolts from the dist block and then, unmount it from the apron... it is easier this way.

 
Don't forget any bushings you can see. Now is the time to inspect them. And if they should need replaced. Remember PB Blaster is your freind. Spray it, tap it, spray it again a couple of times each day for a whole week before you try a wrench and it will come off like butter. First pic is me learning the hard way. Took me a week to get that bolt out without having to cut a hole in my good trunk floor. The second, soaked with PB the same amount of time as the broken one and it came right out.

DSCN0627.JPG

DSCN0626.JPG

 
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Good point, anytime I even think about removing a rusty bolt/nut I start spraying Liquid Wrench and WD 40 days ahead of time!
Have you ever tried a product called Kano Kroil?

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Kroil-Penetrating-liquid-KROIL/dp/B000F09CF4

Its the absolute best stuff I have ever used. I have personally used to to get galled stainless steel bolts and nuts apart. We use it regularly at the garage for exhaust bolts

 
Good point, anytime I even think about removing a rusty bolt/nut I start spraying Liquid Wrench and WD 40 days ahead of time!
Have you ever tried a product called Kano Kroil?

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Kroil-Penetrating-liquid-KROIL/dp/B000F09CF4

Its the absolute best stuff I have ever used. I have personally used to to get galled stainless steel bolts and nuts apart. We use it regularly at the garage for exhaust bolts
Haven't tried that, but back in the day my father use to use plain kerosene in a squirt oil can. Liquid Wrench kind of smells like it too!

 
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