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Hockey Stripe Location


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Hey guys....New guy from SW Florida and have looked thru a lot of listings but could not find a rough measurement from hard body line to top of hockey stripe. I will be installing tomorrow a hockey stripe kit on my red 1972 Q code convertible. It is a nice car and I am an old guy and I do not want to mess it up. My plan is to run a tape line the length of the car to give me a straight line and a good visual ref. The pic I have seen looks like about 2 inches below the hard body line but that is just a guess.

 

 

If anyone has measurements or any tips for install I would appreciate the info.

 

Rodney from SW Florida

1972 Q-Code 4speed one of 201 produced. Staggered shocks, 3.50 traction lock, 44K miles.

Rodney from SW Florida

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Have you any experience putting down stripes and decals? Just incase you haven't one of the secrets is to moisten the area thoroughly with warm water and a small amount of soap. Dish soap works well. Doing this will allow you to manipulate the stripe until you have it positioned where you want it then using a rubber squeegee to work out water soap mixture from under the stripe. Now if you have done this then I apologize for telling you something that you already know.

Going fast is fun but life is short so slow down and enjoy the ride :D Frank

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So, the stripes are not back on mine yet, but I think the elevation is pretty much governed by the front most part of the stripe, It should come flush with the marker light bezel and match the front fender flare radius.

 

The guy who painted my car said he used one of those lasers you use to hang a suspended ceiling, He set it to hit the front fender then raised the back of his car to get a straight line through the rear quarter stripe. Also the rear most section has a slight bevel to clear the bumper recess in the 1/4 panel. The key is to make sure the stripe is linear the whole way back. I have seen people follow the lower body seam, making the rear most stripe tilt. That drives me nuts!

 

http://www.429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/paint_info.htm

 

 

kcmash

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KC is correct on the front set by the marker light and flair radius.

The stripes taper down as they go back

The last stripe has a notch for the bumper cut out, that will help set the rear point.

 

You might try using strips of masking tape to hold your stripes on the car. Do this all the way down the side. Move them around until you get the line you like. Then start working one section at a time.

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I agree with the other posters. I did mine and it is essential to set it up correctly for a good result. The link to the 429 mega site is a good guide. However I found that the kit I purchased from Graphics Express, arguably the best kit out there as it is made from the exact same material as the original 3M stripes, did differ on some of the measurements indicated on the website. Whatever kit you chose is up to you and your budget, but at first I bought a stripe kit from NPD, I forget the brand, but when my paint guy tried to apply the trunk stripe, the material was too thin, wrong sheen and had missing glue in spots. That kit got scrapped. I then found online, Graphics Express from Inverness FL. Their kit as mentioned is the correct Matte finish. I ordered directly and found these people to be great to work with, very helpful.

As for putting the stripes on, I tried tape, but the flare on the rear quarter interfered with the straight line I was aiming for. I too used a laser by jacking the back end till I got the line I needed. As mentioned, start with the front piece, get it right first. Use Ultra Dawn Original dish soap, 1 tablespoon to 1 gallon of water, no guessing, no substitute!!, use a spray bottle. If you bought this kit, you have these instructions. Next is the rear stripe. It sets up 1/4" above the marker light and should blend in to the very start of the radius. Positioning of these two set you up for the rest of the stripe. Keep it wet till you have it all in line, then squeegee out the water. TAKE your time and you'll get a great looking job. I hope my experience helps, only done it once, but this is the way I would do it again. See the picture of my car if it helps.

Geoff.


Don is correct by using masking tape to help set up from the rear front fender stripe through to the rear. The top of the stripe should be a straight line. The laser I used, forgot to mention, was just one of those pointer type laser levels on a tripod so I had to rotate to get each point. Worked though. Good luck

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Thanks guys for the good info. I started very earl this morning and ran a tape stripe to use as a ref point. I started at the front and by the time I arrived at the rear I noticed the downward slope of the stripes not noticeable until the last stripe. I am ok with the the way they turned out but I sure could do better now that I know what to look for.

The rear stripe was off quite a bit I had to reroute the inboard small stripe lines.

Thanks

Rodney from SW Florida

1972 Q-Code 4speed one of 201 produced. Staggered shocks, 3.50 traction lock, 44K miles.

Rodney from SW Florida

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Thanks guys for the good info. I started very earl this morning and ran a tape stripe to use as a ref point. I started at the front and by the time I arrived at the rear I noticed the downward slope of the stripes not noticeable until the last stripe. I am ok with the the way they turned out but I sure could do better now that I know what to look for.

The rear stripe was off quite a bit I had to reroute the inboard small stripe lines.

Thanks

Rodney from SW Florida

 

 

Glad you got it on OK. They are a pain to do, just takes patients and time. Post a picture when you get time.

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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  • 2 months later...

Well I had a few mess ups doing my side stripes. Hope this helps others. If I could have a do over I would have trimmed the overlay mounting paper to a straight edge to line up with a masking tape stripe to use as a guide. The paper edge was uneven and made it difficult to line up.

 

Just rember you need some kind of hard markers to line everything up and that was my fault not doing enough research first to set it up properly.

 

If you have a good Gide edge on the tape stripe you can line it up edge to edge.

 

Thanks

Rodney from SW Florida

1972 Q-Code 4speed one of 201 produced. Staggered shocks, 3.50 traction lock, 44K miles.

Rodney from SW Florida

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My car was originally a no-stripe car, but because I was missing some of the rocker moldings and had the 'hockey stripe goggles' on when I first got it, I had planned on going with stripes.

 

After seeing how much hassle different guys are having with this, I'm thinking my decision to keep the car a 'no stripe' car is paying off. :cool:

 

I still need to do my trunk/tail panel Mach 1 stripe, though.

 

Hey - let's see those pics! I'm sure it came out great! ::thumb::

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Thanks guys for the good info. I started very earl this morning and ran a tape stripe to use as a ref point. I started at the front and by the time I arrived at the rear I noticed the downward slope of the stripes not noticeable until the last stripe. I am ok with the the way they turned out but I sure could do better now that I know what to look for.

The rear stripe was off quite a bit I had to reroute the inboard small stripe lines.

Thanks

Rodney from SW Florida

 

 

Glad you got it on OK. They are a pain to do, just takes patients and time. Post a picture when you get time.

Geoff.

358p2ld.jpg

1972 Q-Code 4speed one of 201 produced. Staggered shocks, 3.50 traction lock, 44K miles.

Rodney from SW Florida

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