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2080748692_BlueStreak.jpg.e8c9fd8f089b0a295d570a96315ffc01.jpg72 Mach being painted by local shop. Painter having difficulty to source paint for match 3J code / Bright Blue Poly at reasonable price.

 

Any suggested alternatives to Dupont, and/or advice on where to buy?

 

Shooting for balance between decent restoral vs. cost (I know, who isn't)? Car will go in the teens vs. $20-$30k range, if/when I'm done re-living my adolescent dream.

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Sharp car. Love that color along with grabber blue. Welcome to the forum.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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If you just want to get close, Summit racing has an inexpensive line of paints and you can get a chart for about 5 bucks to see if any are close enough

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-lvsccc?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwjIy5BRClh8m_9Zu64d8BEiQAtZsQfyyDsjJhkyLtCr0h5qqm84gaMTHjkCjNt3zxf5dK-jIaAmtX8P8HAQ

 

I am not a painter, but I have heard it is a decent product.

 

Essentially any paint that is a standard color from most manufacturers will be far cheaper than a custom blend to factory colors

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Paint recommendations and choices are absolutely, positively right next to religion and politics... Don't get offended or discouraged with the responses that you're about to receive...

 

First you must know if your painter will be using base/clear or single stage.

Second, if your paint supplier can't find a code, they aren't looking hard enough. Most paint colors will have variants. The term "exact match" will be relative. It may take some work to get your perceived "match" if you're the picky sort.

 

I sell Akzo Nobel paints where I work... Sikkens, Lesonal, U-Tech and a little known company called Wanda. We also sell private labeled primers and clears manufactured by Cumberland.

Most likely your painter will prefer or recommend base/clear.

Of the 3 base/clear urethane (color) brands that we carry, I mix Wanda colors by a HUGE margin over the other 2 higher priced brands for smaller shops and over the counter users... and complaints or issues are very far and few in between. The complaints that I do receive are usually a result of the painter cocktailing their own chemicals and not following manufacturer recommendations.

 

Unfortunately, you will most likely only be able to use what your painter recommends (read: stuff that he's used to using). They are usually (but not always) polarized to one method/brand or another.

 

Which brings us right back to my opening statement... :)

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs

'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...

'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater - SOLD

'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor

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Hi There and welcome,

 

What Pete has just said holds true.

 

I recommend PPG paints all day all way. ( Sorry Pete, i know you're trying to make a living) Finding paint codes for 123 Mustangs are a cinch - finding correct, accurate paint color Formulas can be difficult and tricky. The original 123 Mustangs were shot in mono enamels, and the old paint formulas have gone, based on that type of paint that was once used. Today's paint technology uses Basecoat/ clearcoat systems, and involves new, revised and updated formulas based on todays paints that are now used. How faithful and accurate the new formulas are to the old original ones is a bit of a grey area, but one would like to think that they have remained true and faithful to the old ones. In my case with my Gold Glow color, the PPG formula was noticeably out to my original factoty paint i still have on my '73 Vert, and needed a lot of throwing or color adjusting to get it right to my factory color. There should be a paint formula for your color with PPG. (not sure about other brands) If not, there are other options.

 

The first thing to establish, is whether you have any original factory paint around the OUTSIDE only, not inside of the car. If you have, then happy days. The first option would be to use a spectro on your existing paintwork to get a color reading, and fine tune and throw the color if needs be from there. Having the original factory paint still on the car is a big deal. THAT IS THE BASIS ON ACHIEVING THE BEST ORIGINAL COLOR MATCH FOR YOUR FACTORY BRIGHT BLUE POLY COLOR, NO QUESTIONS. A second option is to make up your color from scratch. A good pro spraypainter should be able to color match your bright blue poly color by eye, from scratch,(no formula and no spectro involved) going on what you have on your car now, original paint or not. Also, a third option is some paint companies like Glasurit paints, now offer color matching swatches to go by to help achieve the best color match. You hold the various color swatches up against the panels on your car, and then select the closest color match that a swatch can offer to what color is on your car now. Each color swatch has its own formula. That method works, but if you have no original paint left around your car to go by, then you will be limited in coming up with a color that might not represent the original factory color that was once on your Mustang.

 

As Pete said, options, decisions and what you end up with in relation to paint brand, color match etc, will come down to the paint shop you're dealing with and what they want, or are prepared to offer you. If they are a dynamic, professional, and up to date spray shop, then they should be able to deliver the goods, and offer you quality paint, and a good faithful, accurate representation of the bright blue poly Mustang factory color. If they say no, it can't be done, then i would be thinking twice about who you are dealing with.

 

Hope that basic info helps,

 

Greg.:)

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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Paint recommendations and choices are absolutely, positively right next to religion and politics... Don't get offended or discouraged with the responses that you're about to receive...

 

First you must know if your painter will be using base/clear or single stage.

Second, if your paint supplier can't find a code, they aren't looking hard enough. Most paint colors will have variants. The term "exact match" will be relative. It may take some work to get your perceived "match" if you're the picky sort.

 

I sell Akzo Nobel paints where I work... Sikkens, Lesonal, U-Tech and a little known company called Wanda. We also sell private labeled primers and clears manufactured by Cumberland.

Most likely your painter will prefer or recommend base/clear.

Of the 3 base/clear urethane (color) brands that we carry, I mix Wanda colors by a HUGE margin over the other 2 higher priced brands for smaller shops and over the counter users... and complaints or issues are very far and few in between. The complaints that I do receive are usually a result of the painter cocktailing their own chemicals and not following manufacturer recommendations.

 

Unfortunately, you will most likely only be able to use what your painter recommends (read: stuff that he's used to using). They are usually (but not always) polarized to one method/brand or another.

 

Which brings us right back to my opening statement... :)

 

Hi Pete,

 

Just out of curiosity, are you running any formulas with your brands of paint your selling for the original 123 Mustang family of colors as such?

 

Greg.:)

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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I use PPG or Nason for my projects.. Look around (google) for a body shop paint supplier in your area.. If it's a professional paint store, they can match your current paint and come up with a formula code..

 

I've had Madonalds Paint and Body supplies do that for me in Inverness Fla.. They've even matched up one interior color for vinyl paint..

The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it. 

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Paint recommendations and choices are absolutely, positively right next to religion and politics... Don't get offended or discouraged with the responses that you're about to receive...

 

First you must know if your painter will be using base/clear or single stage.

Second, if your paint supplier can't find a code, they aren't looking hard enough. Most paint colors will have variants. The term "exact match" will be relative. It may take some work to get your perceived "match" if you're the picky sort.

 

I sell Akzo Nobel paints where I work... Sikkens, Lesonal, U-Tech and a little known company called Wanda. We also sell private labeled primers and clears manufactured by Cumberland.

Most likely your painter will prefer or recommend base/clear.

Of the 3 base/clear urethane (color) brands that we carry, I mix Wanda colors by a HUGE margin over the other 2 higher priced brands for smaller shops and over the counter users... and complaints or issues are very far and few in between. The complaints that I do receive are usually a result of the painter cocktailing their own chemicals and not following manufacturer recommendations.

 

Unfortunately, you will most likely only be able to use what your painter recommends (read: stuff that he's used to using). They are usually (but not always) polarized to one method/brand or another.

 

Which brings us right back to my opening statement... :)

 

Not offended, just got lost - TMD. I have a good painter, he can get Dupont but he (I) don't want to pay $600/gal. Aware of SummitRacing. Any other suggestions?

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Many experts......anyone with focus?

 

Lots of info I'm aware of, in part from the painter.

 

Again, looking for BRAND suggestions. For a modest restoral. This won't be a $20k+ car.

 

Hi there,

 

I responded with detailed feedback to you because you first mentioned your painter having color matching probs regarding paint brand availability for bright blue poly, as well as brand advice. If it's BRAND ADVICE ONLY you are seeking, then here is my focused response. If you are keeping an eye on your paint shop spendings, then going down to a lesser known brand that is cheaper,but still offers quality,and can provide a paint formula for bright blue, would be your answer then of course. In America there should be brands of paints that would fall into this catagory, that i wouldn't know about and could not advise you on sorry. I can't help you there. I don't live there. Talk to Pete from MotoArts, he could help you out with his brands maybe. To conclude, if your painter is as good as you say he is, then finding a cheaper brand of paint to use that is a suitable color, should be no problem at all for him, don't you think?

 

Hope it all flys for you,

 

Greg.

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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Guest Pastel Blue

Many experts......anyone with focus?

 

Lots of info I'm aware of, in part from the painter.

 

Again, looking for BRAND suggestions. For a modest restoral. This won't be a $20k+ car.

 

 

Hmmmm... A little harsh don't you think? Here's my focused response: you get what you pay for. Good luck.

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Hi Pete,

 

Just out of curiosity, are you running any formulas with your brands of paint your selling for the original 123 Mustang family of colors as such?

 

Greg.:)

 

Generally speaking, all of the older colors are just as you described... if they are available in base/clear, ya gotta work with them to get what you perceive is correct. Most of the colors I've looked up for any of the OE single stage from the late-80's and back end up being referred to the Colormap doc... no actual chips with variants. (Colormap is only a very general representation as it is ink printed.) I usually end up mixing minimum volume from the Colormap position and have the shop do a sprayout.

 

ps. PPG paints are/were actually manufactured in my small hometown where I grew up! Pittsburgh Paints is HUGE in our market here simply from brand loyalty. Good thing I'm not on commission :)

 

As for the OP looking for suggestions... I don't believe that Greg or myself in combination could have presented an answer to your question any more clearly.

You should discuss the pricing and material quality with your painter.

His name will be on the final product, not ours, therefore any of our suggestions will be moot.

 

Good luck, sir.

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs

'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...

'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater - SOLD

'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor

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Hi Pete,

 

Just out of curiosity, are you running any formulas with your brands of paint your selling for the original 123 Mustang family of colors as such?

 

Greg.:)

 

Generally speaking, all of the older colors are just as you described... if they are available in base/clear, ya gotta work with them to get what you perceive is correct. Most of the colors I've looked up for any of the OE single stage from the late-80's and back end up being referred to the Colormap doc... no actual chips with variants. (Colormap is only a very general representation as it is ink printed.) I usually end up mixing minimum volume from the Colormap position and have the shop do a sprayout.

 

ps. PPG paints are/were actually manufactured in my small hometown where I grew up! Pittsburgh Paints is HUGE in our market here simply from brand loyalty. Good thing I'm not on commission :)

 

As for the OP looking for suggestions... I don't believe that Greg or myself in combination could have presented an answer to your question any more clearly.

You should discuss the pricing and material quality with your painter.

His name will be on the final product, not ours, therefore any of our suggestions will be moot.

 

Good luck, sir.

 

Hey Pete,

 

Thanks for your reply and feedback. Yeah, it's as i would have thought. Trying to nail down accurate modern day paint formulas for our 123 Mustangs is a bit of a challenge i've found based on my own experience.

 

Out here in Oz, PPG was the only company i found to come up with a formula for my Gold Glow color, and as i said before, that was way out and had to be swung over to match my car. As you say, i would think that most of the 123 colors you make up for customers have to be fine tuned and tweaked to match up accurately. That's where the color matching skills of the painter really come into play. That sorts the men from the boys in my trade.:cool:

 

But it's great to know that you offer that for your customers as getting the color right plays a big part as i'm sure you are well aware of. Yeah, the old Pittsburgh Plate and Glass Company, what can you say? They ended up taking over Dulux ICI didn't they?

 

Cheers Mate,

 

Greg.:)

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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I wont used the clears produced by kirker, I did a full paint on my Sons Dakota in 2008 and it just didn't hold up like it should have over the years. The wise word posted earlier may be true. "you get what you pay for". My Brother/Nephew Has a body shop, been in the business since 76. He used Dupont until the sale (see link below)and has switched to Sherman Williams. I personally liked the Dupont Brand. I Sprayed a lot of it in years past but what is is like now i'm not sure.

 

http://www.paintsquare.com/news/?fuseaction=view&id=9105

 

I plan on using Sherman Williams for all products just because of the sources through my brother. I have not personally Sprayed the base or clears made by SW but my Son has(he works for his Uncle) and he likes them. I have sprayed the epoxy primer and for what its worth it seemed to be pretty good stuff. Im no expert just my 2 pennies.

 

Dennis

Dennis

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