'71 429cj mustang convertible restoration

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A local you-tube video producing company did a quick spread on my car while in the restoration shop, for those interested here you go! Hope this works... Cheers
Click to expand...
Yes sir - it worked fine. Nice to see. It reminded me of all the videos Scott posted on his Saturday Morning Garage YouTube channel.

Cool.

Ray

 
Lookin' good Ken.

Thanks for the Vids.

The boys look like they know the business for sure.::thumb::

Now don't scratch that paint when you're reassembling the car.:p

It'll be great to see when she's finished and all together.

Greg.:)

 
Thanks guys. I am waiting for the call from the shop to go over and give the ::thumb:: on the retaping of the hood blackout "before" it is painted again. As a customer you feel bad when you have to tell the shop, "sorry but it is not correct"...

For those in the body and paint business, you know how much work it is to re-do this hood, but for the $$ invested and the high expectations, there was really no option. I think the shop learned something moving forward, bring the customer in and have them give the final ok on critical design issues such as this, so there are no regrets moving forward...

I am happy with the overall end result on the car, it has come a long way since my receiving her from WA state last September.

Greg, what is a scratch? Never heard that word before and I am sticking to that thought moving forward :cool:

 
Can we say blankets? Whenever I was doing heavy lifting or fitting around the car I would use those movers blankets and have the attached with masking tape in various areas to hold them on. Here is my engine install picture as an example.

Engine start4.jpg

Also, make sure you get whatever extra paint is left over from the shop and place some of it in an emptied and clean nail polish jar. I also put a small BB in the jar to help with agitation. Keep all of your paints in the house where temperatures are controlled. My wife had to give up a cabinet in the laundry room for my paint supply storage.

 
I assume when they spoke of applying undercoating underneath it will be done VERY sparingly....if at all....Sound deadener, yes where factory applied, but undercoating...? Aside from rear wheel wells, it looked complete...

Here is the MCA Judging Guideline for chassis undercoating (which I'm sure you have already referenced):

5. UNDERCARRIAGE Points

A. Undercarriage:

Undercoating: No undercoating allowed in Trailered Class. Note: Undercoating was applied by dealers. Sound deadner was applied at the factory.

1971 - 1973 MUSTANG CONCOURS TRAILERED / DRIVEN Undercoated Cars: Everything must be covered except drive shaft, transmission, rear-end housing, exhaust pipes, mufflers, springs and plates. Gas tank, fully undercoated or have overspray around leading front edge and two sides. Must show some evidence of overspray. Convertible plate must be undercoated.

Or

Non-undercoated Cars: Undercarriage primer either red oxide, dark gray or black or any combination of batch primer colors with some body color and pinch weld paint overspray. (Primer paint drips should be visible for non-undercoated cars.) Some sound deadner on floor pans is ok but not on gas tank. Convertible plate, black or natural.

....................................................................................................................................................... 20

 
your car looks great!!!

As for the under carriage I didn't think it had over spray like that, I thought it was red oxide primer, then body paint, then the black out was painted on, to hide the over spray.

http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/paint_info.htm
Click to expand...

Well, without getting into what is right and wrong as per MCA rules, no two cars were exactly the same. The "standard" of having red oxide primer underneath may have held true on earlier year Mustangs, but Dearborn cars did not hold to this standard. The factory used a "slop grey" which could be any shade from red to black. It was simply left over paint that was mixed and reused. My car was confirmed as a blackish undercarriage before it was sent off for stripping. The blackout (pinch weld area) was sprayed on after body colour application, again not a science in its application, done solely to hide the body colour on the pinch weld area. There was very little black on the floor pans evident on my original car after body paint was applied, it was mostly body colour the closer you got to the outside of the car. Whatever you see done on my car today is backed up by photographs that were taken of the original undercarriage.

 
Last edited:
I assume when they spoke of applying undercoating underneath it will be done VERY sparingly....if at all....Sound deadener, yes where factory applied, but undercoating...? Aside from rear wheel wells, it looked complete...

Here is the MCA Judging Guideline for chassis undercoating (which I'm sure you have already referenced):

5. UNDERCARRIAGE Points

A. Undercarriage:

Undercoating: No undercoating allowed in Trailered Class. Note: Undercoating was applied by dealers. Sound deadner was applied at the factory.

1971 - 1973 MUSTANG CONCOURS TRAILERED / DRIVEN Undercoated Cars: Everything must be covered except drive shaft, transmission, rear-end housing, exhaust pipes, mufflers, springs and plates. Gas tank, fully undercoated or have overspray around leading front edge and two sides. Must show some evidence of overspray. Convertible plate must be undercoated.

Or

Non-undercoated Cars: Undercarriage primer either red oxide, dark gray or black or any combination of batch primer colors with some body color and pinch weld paint overspray. (Primer paint drips should be visible for non-undercoated cars.) Some sound deadner on floor pans is ok but not on gas tank. Convertible plate, black or natural.

.......................................................................................................................................................
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
your car looks great!!!

As for the under carriage I didn't think it had over spray like that, I thought it was red oxide primer, then body paint, then the black out was painted on, to hide the over spray.

http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/paint_info.htm
Click to expand...

Well, without getting into what is right and wrong as per MCA rules, no two cars were exactly the same. The "standard" of having red oxide primer underneath may have held true on earlier year Mustangs, but Dearborn cars did not hold to this standard. The factory used a "slop grey" which could be any shade from red to black. It was simply left over paint that was mixed and reused. My car was confirmed as a blackish undercarriage before it was sent off for stripping. The blackout (pinch weld area) was sprayed on after body colour application, again not a science in its application, done solely to hide the body colour on the pinch weld area. There was very little black on the floor pans evident on my original car after body paint was applied, it was mostly body colour the closer you got to the outside of the car. Whatever you see done on my car today is backed up by photographs that were taken of the original undercarriage.
Click to expand...

That's good that you took before pictures, to help support how it was.

all this info we are learning here is great, and it also proves Ford was not constant on how they built cars, everyone is slightly different.

 

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