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New Stable In The Making


BeerDontCount
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My builder is a few weeks in building a garage, which I have never had in my entire life! Finally I will be able to have a proper work space and a place to put my vert, out of the elements. Really looking forward to it, and couldn't resist posting a pic!

 

Scott

 

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My builder is a few weeks in building a garage, which I have never had in my entire life! Finally I will be able to have a proper work space and a place to put my vert, out of the elements. Really looking forward to it, and couldn't resist posting a pic!

 

Scott

 

 

 

Nice!

Nothing like some quality time in the garage.

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Looking good.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Looking good!

Mike AKA Ole Pony & Rare Pony
Our current Mustang garage/driveway
1973 Mustang Convert - Bought in 1974 - Still have it!
2004 Mach 1 Oxford White Auto, Bought Sept 06

20180127_082009.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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Nice looking garage. You will appreciate the Windows. I only put one in mine mostly due to proximity to neighbors but I wish I had put more in.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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The details are still to be worked out. I told my builder I wanted a closet in the corner for an air compressor. I'll probably end up building the work benches myself so I can customize it. All I really want is a utilitarian space that will be functional and doesn't feel cramped. I would like to have a 12' stainless steel bench, but we'll see if that's still in the cards when the garage is done. If anyone has any suggestions, now is the time, and I would appreciated them. Its gonna be fun. Thanks for the encouraging comments.

 

Scott

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Are you planning to Insulate and Drywall? I would, even if you don't add any type of heating/cooling it will make a big different in keeping it cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. I am planning on installing a heat pump mini-split to mine so I can have heat and A/C without running gas to the garage. Just waiting for one of my distributor buddies to get a scratch and dent one in the right size. One thing I wish I had done right away was to do some sort of floor coating/covering. Also make sure there is a man door, you don't want to have to open and close the garage door each time for entry/exit (it is code here in Iowa). Also a lot of people don't put Gutters and Downs on garages, I would highly recommend it.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Electrical outlets every 4 feet along the wall. I added multiple switched outlets in the ceiling so that I can add and move lights as I might need in the future.

 

If you use drywall, put a band of composite board around the bottom of the wall so that anything spilled doesn't potentially soak into the sheetrock. Concrete trim board or composite decking should work fine.

 

If you know you are going to hang cabinets, I would put up plywood rather than sheetrock where the cabinets will go.

 

Since you are going to put an air compressor in, you might want to add a manifold that extends out and gives you multiple locations to attach a hose, rather than having to drag hose around car(s)

 

Rubber bumpers on the walls are nice, but are simple add ons once you get everything done.

 

If you end up with a crowded garage, add a couple of convex mirrors in the upper corners to make it easier to see how much room you have when parking.

 

Zip tie the door closer mechanism's "release" handle so that it can't be opened manually without first removing the zip tie. This keeps your garage more secure from folks that would slip a hanger through the top and snag the release so they can just lift the door.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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1) PEX is great for air lines (update... read below, PEX is NOT great for air lines) There are nice cast metal manifolds built for that purpose. I wish I would have plumbed my garage for air when I built it.

2) Go with at least 1 watt (1.2-1.5 is better) per square foot of fluorescent light, or 1/2 (5/8-3/4 is better) watt of LED light per square foot.

3) When you have the electrician lay out the lighting make sure you wash the perimeter of the room with light. I sketched up an example on some post-it notes. Even if you don't want to cough up a bunch of money for light fixtures now at least wire it so you can in the future.

 

Garagelighting3.jpg.3126d3f55ba240a01d0b48068f91f285.jpg

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I did my lighting very similar to the layout on the far right. Bought some used 4' fluorescent lights with 4 bulbs each for $5 each from a place remodeling their office. Changed the bulbs out and set up to run T8's. Crazy bright.

 

A word of caution on the above mention of using PEX for air lines. You do this at your own risk. The product is not designed for air nor do any manufacturers that I know of recommend this. I was on a plant tour of the Uponor facility in MN a few years ago and asked that specific question about air lines and the way PEX is made (cross linked polyethyline tubing) it was not designed to hold air pressure like it does water as the chemical process of making the tubing eliminates any oxygen barrier in the tubing. That is why you see a heating version that has a thin oxygen barrier coating applied to the outside. One additional reason is that PEX is not long term UV stable. There are specific products made specifically for air lines or you can always use black or galvanized steel pipe. Just make sure you put a filter dryer at each outlet if you like your air tools to last. Hope this helps.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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My bad on the PEX, I had no idea.

 

I want to install some sort of air line in my garage someday, for the time being I just drag hoses everywhere.

 

No prob. I drag hoses everywhere too. Just want people to be safe. The big issue with the PEX is not being uv stable. We set a roll out in the pipe yard for 30 exposed and it was so brittle you could crush it with your hands and turn it into crumbled pieces. Also turned really yellow. If you can solder copper tube it works well as long as you use "L" copper "M" copper is too thin.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Wow! Lots of stuff I hadn't thought about, especially the lighting. Many thanks. I was planning on sheet rock and insulation with a small heater designed to keep it comfortable to work in over the winter. Temps aren't too extreme here so I think that should be fine. I guess my initial thought on the air hose was to either haul it around, or perhaps have it on a reel. I don't think I'm going to be using it that much. Just want to be able to take off the wheels or R&R a water pump. It will have an exterior door and plenty of electrical access. Great tip in the zip tie for the garage door, and using composite trim. I never would have thought of that. I really appreciate the great ideas. Keep them coming if you think of anything else.

 

Scott

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Guest Pastel Blue

Looks good... If you plan on putting a hoist/lift in, you need to address the concrete thickness before having the slab poured so you can anchor it, depending on your needs.

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Add a simple plastic utility sink and plum with a drain. You will need to clean things maybe even your hands.

 

Rodney from SW Florida

1972 Q-Code 4speed one of 201 produced. Staggered shocks, 3.50 traction lock, 44K miles.

Rodney from SW Florida

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I am knee deep in my garage right now also. Take a look at the LED lights that are out the I won't push a brand. There are energy/tax credits for using them on your taxes and cost much less than fluorescent and last longer. You can buy truck loads of used fluorescent lights off craigslist and yes there are conversion kits to switch them to LED but check new ones first close to same cost. You do not need killer lighting in all areas only areas you will be working.

The building codes here are very strict if your garage is attached to your home. You have to have two layers of fireX sheet rock here to comply. Insurance will not pay if you do not and ever have a fire.

On the airlines. What every you use put a drop down line say 3' long on each end for any moisture to go into with a drain valve. Always put your connections to your line coming out the top so no moisture in the line has an easy path. Yes you can put dryer and desiccant system but not needed for 90% or your air usage. Use some type of non rigid connection to your compressor, heavy rubber line. This isolates the vibration of the compressor from the hard lines. Be careful about putting compressor in closet needs cool air if it runs a lot. I always put mine outside in a shed roof shelter and don't forget about a blow down connection for it.

Since you already have your floor poured not much you can change there. You can get some scissor lifts to make life easier for a reasonable cost. In one of my garages we dug a hole 4 concrete blocks deep and had a plywood cover. It was better than laying on your back to change oil, lube and do clutch transmission work. But your floor is down.

It is great that you are getting a place to work, life is good.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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  • 8 months later...

My husbands favorite feature of our garage is the heated floors.. lol. He told me it's like laying on an electric blanket made out of concrete. Congrats on the garagr

Karla

1972 Mustang Fastback

3 boys and a hubby

 

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Looks good. What brand cabinets are those, I like them.

 

They are NewAge Performance Plus with their stainless tops. They are pretty substantial. I'm impressed with the quality and they went together pretty easily too. I would recommend them based on my experience so far.

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