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where did you mount your line lock?


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I'm thinking about installing a line lock and curious where people mounted their indicator light, I kinda want to avoid drilling in the dash. Since I'm running the stock automatic shifter i don't have and accessory button so do you just keep the activation switch laying near your shifter? Any brand recommendations?

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slawnugget

 

I put a electric fuel pump kill switch on the plate just above the glove box insert. Take look there!

 

mustang7173

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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Not sure if Hurst still has them or not. That is what I had on one car it came with a thick rubber part that slipped over the sifter with the knob off. So you held your index finger on the button mounted to the shifter to set the lock pumped the brakes up and released your finger to go. It had a valve that you put in your front brake line with solenoid to open and close the valve. Worked fine and for sure reduced the breakage of gears, u-joints and axles. It also improves your burn out scores, lol.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Not sure if Hurst still has them or not. That is what I had on one car it came with a thick rubber part that slipped over the sifter with the knob off. So you held your index finger on the button mounted to the shifter to set the lock pumped the brakes up and released your finger to go. It had a valve that you put in your front brake line with solenoid to open and close the valve. Worked fine and for sure reduced the breakage of gears, u-joints and axles. It also improves your burn out scores, lol.

 

Ditto

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I mounted my indicator in the dash below the headlight switch and to the right a bit. A better option might be to mount it sideways up along the lower edge of the dash pad. No need to see it face on, from the profile, when it is lit, you'll know.

 

As to the switch wiring i have mine coiled up and sitting just inboard of the glovebox and terminated with a connector plug.. I have a switch on a coiled wire to the other half of the connector plug, so I can plug it in and use it, then unplug it and put everything away for everyday driving.

 

My solenoid itself is mounted to the backside of the DS shock tower.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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I wired up the seat belt light, above the glove box for my line lock light. I put a small switch in the ashtray to activate the line lock. It is not used much anymore.

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Not sure if Hurst still has them or not. That is what I had on one car it came with a thick rubber part that slipped over the sifter with the knob off. So you held your index finger on the button mounted to the shifter to set the lock pumped the brakes up and released your finger to go. It had a valve that you put in your front brake line with solenoid to open and close the valve. Worked fine and for sure reduced the breakage of gears, u-joints and axles. It also improves your burn out scores, lol.

 

Nice to know Hurst still has them.

As North American auto makers NEVER figured out what a HAND BRAKE was for especially on 4 speed cars (ALL European cars have them), a line lock mounted to the shifter might be a very useful addition for use on 'hill starts'. Not that there are many hills around SW Ontario, but with a heavy clutch, I have to think it would make the get-away easier, or at least, give the foot a rest while waiting. The pedal set-up on these cars make it almost impossible to toe-and-heal. We only have 2 feet!!

Just something that I have often thought about, but as I said, there are not too many hills here to be that important to me.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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thanks, i went ahead and ordered the hurst kit. ordered a brake booster and mc from gps too. ill get pics up once its in.

 

If your car did not have a booster originally (manual brakes), you're in for some work. I just did mine and have posted about the swap as have others. My experience was far from as easy as the booster manufactures claim. If the booster does NOT fit exactly where an original factory one would, chances are it won't. You will also need to get your pedal arm re-drilled and a new pin welded in 2" below the manual position pin. (assuming that is what you now have) I ended up using an original re-man booster, but these are all but impossible to find anymore it seems.

Good luck with it.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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I know you've already ordered the Hurst kit, but I found out during my Hot Rod days that Hurst had offered a "T" handle with the switch made in it. I used that not only for the functionality, but the tons of cool factor I got back then. My 67 had a ash tray in the dashboard and I didn't smoke, so I stuck the indicator light in it. Like David said, once I installed the line lock, broken u-joints, axles, and differential parts went away. The one I used had a metal button. The one I've illustrated is the new model with the red plastic button which I've heard doesn't hold up as well as the old model. (That's a surprise isn't it)?!

1530011.thumb.jpg.d110f675b4be799af42ca1fc467756eb.jpg

Steve

 

No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!

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