Jump to content

AC Port low side


Recommended Posts

I had my AC converted a while away to R134A, but when the shop rebuilt the engine I don't think they recharged the system.

 

Can someone post a pic of the low AC port as I would just rather recharge it myself as getting the car back to the shop is a pain.

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the system was opened or leaked out, you shouldn't just recharge it.

It should be evacuated with a vacuum pump to remove any moisture from the system first. Plus once a vacuum is pulled it can be left to set there for a little while, this will show there are no leaks if the vacuum holds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the system was opened or leaked out, you shouldn't just recharge it.

It should be evacuated with a vacuum pump to remove any moisture from the system first. Plus once a vacuum is pulled it can be left to set there for a little while, this will show there are no leaks if the vacuum holds.

 

+1

When I had mine done after converting it they pulled a vacuum and held it for 30 minutes to ensure it was not leaking. Pressures very for each type of refrigerant, here's the one for R134A.

1214697d1372440308-honda-idsi-gas-charging-servicing-diy-few-questions-r134atemp-pressure-chart.jpg.34ebcb73c00e9504bdc7cd8a7cc65368.jpg

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Pastel Blue

Curious... with the conversion to 134A, what was involved and how does it operate in comparison to the factory R-12 system? My understanding is that you retain the factory system components more or less, which would be my goal on my current restoration. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Curious... with the conversion to 134A, what was involved and how does it operate in comparison to the factory R-12 system? My understanding is that you retain the factory system components more or less, which would be my goal on my current restoration. Thanks

 

As far as I know, all factory components are the same.

 

Here's a pic of the system. I'm guessing the black cap is the low side port?

 

Can anyone confirm?

 

IMAG0296.thumb.jpg.71f7b89be52f2481c7533c13f4fd5b5a.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That line looks like it is going forward to the condenser ?

 

The low side [ suction ] would be the large line coming from the firewall to the compressor

 

The large line going to the condenser is the HI pressure side

 

CAUTION

If your not sure what your doing you can rupture lines.

I've seen some hellacious pressures - they could do some damage.

Even the low pressure liquid can cause freeze injuries.

Not trying to discourage you or be a D here but would you be comfortable recharging you home A/C system?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That line looks like it is going forward to the condenser ?

 

The low side [ suction ] would be the large line coming from the firewall to the compressor

 

The large line going to the condenser is the HI pressure side

 

CAUTION

If your not sure what your doing you can rupture lines.

I've seen some hellacious pressures - they could do some damage.

Even the low pressure liquid can cause freeze injuries.

Not trying to discourage you or be a D here but would you be comfortable recharging you home A/C system?

 

+1

You don't want to put more than the recommended amount of refrigerant into the system. I have seen the gasket on the compressor rupture because it was overfilled.

 

I have converted a r12 system with R134A without changing the components with no issues. I personally think R12 cools much better but the conversion was good too.

 

If I remember correctly the fill ports need to be changed, it was a long time ago and I don't really remember. Much easier to take the vehicle to a service center to get this conversion done.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

John is correct, with all components the same R12 will cool better. I believe R134 systems have larger condensers to achieve the same cooling. I've done the conversion a couple of times and have been satisfied with the results using original components.

 

Are you sure yours was converted? My conversions a came with R134 snap-on coupler converters.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

John is correct, with all components the same R12 will cool better. I believe R134 systems have larger condensers to achieve the same cooling. I've done the conversion a couple of times and have been satisfied with the results using original components.

 

Are you sure yours was converted? My conversions a came with R134 snap-on coupler converters.

 

 

Yes, mine was def converted about 2 years ago. So going back to R12 isn't an option.

 

Looking at the Acprocold web site the black cap which attaches to a port is the low port as the hose also connects to the evaporator, of which it does.

 

http://acprocold.com/ac-pro-instructions/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check out Red Tek 12a...suppose to work with for R12 systems and R134. Anyone Try that yet?

Thanks

 

Tim

Tucson, Az

1973 SportsRoof

351C bored .040

Crank .020  and Stock cam

Flattop pistons

Edelbrock 4bbl CARB 800 CFM ELEC CHOKE

Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold

 

NewPrimedHood_zpsw2jaj0cu.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it is listed as flammable.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...