73 harness help please

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Joined
Jun 20, 2016
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Location
Kansas
My Car
73 mustang
351CJ
toploader

So.... I decided to have my harness rebuilt by Midlife (super nice guy BTW) but how in the heck do you get the harness that goes through the firewall out? The connector that goes to the fuse box will not physically go through the metal bracket its fed through to the engine compartment so I have to feed the 2 miles of wire in the engine compartment back through to the interior? I'd rather stick my wiener in a meat grinder. :atomic::eek:fftopic:

 
So.... I decided to have my harness rebuilt by Midlife (super nice guy BTW) but how in the heck do you get the harness that goes through the firewall out? The connector that goes to the fuse box will not physically go through the metal bracket its fed through to the engine compartment so I have to feed the 2 miles of wire in the engine compartment back through to the interior? I'd rather stick my wiener in a meat grinder. :atomic::eek:fftopic:

lollerz

@ I'd rather stick my wiener in a meat grinder lollerz

That has put a big smile on my face to start the day

A BIG THANK YOU ::thumb:: :goodpost:

 
The metal bracket on the brake support? The green plug separates into two pieces. The engine side harness goes out through the front ( only about 1-1/2' passes through the firewall hole) the green plug being the first thing though.

 
The metal bracket on the brake support? The green plug separates in to two pieces. The engine side harness goes out through the front ( only about 1-1/2' passes through the firewall hole) the green plug being the first thing though.
I got it. There was a metal bracket on the far left that the harness wire went through. Once I pulled all the duct work out I saw it was only welded on one side so pryed it down... Easy Peasy. Not one wire left in my car ? Good luck midlife. My Mach is in your hands.

 
So.... I decided to have my harness rebuilt by Midlife (super nice guy BTW) but how in the heck do you get the harness that goes through the firewall out? The connector that goes to the fuse box will not physically go through the metal bracket its fed through to the engine compartment so I have to feed the 2 miles of wire in the engine compartment back through to the interior? I'd rather stick my wiener in a meat grinder. :atomic::eek:fftopic:

lollerz

@ I'd rather stick my wiener in a meat grinder lollerz

That has put a big smile on my face to start the day

A BIG THANK YOU ::thumb:: :goodpost:

???
 
A little advice. Pull the entire dash out. It will save you much pain and it is so much faster. There are two bolts on the bottom on each side, one on the top on each side. A small bolt right over the steering column and then a wire form brace to the left side of the clove box. You can pull the engine harness in and have it in place. Remove and rebuild your heater air box while the dash is out. Also put some insulation on the cowl. The factory put this crappy thin plastic with fiber insulation that falls apart. I use some of the foil / foam stick stuff and works great. Helps with heat and noise. I also cleaned up all the brackets and applied clear to them to stop the rust. And since dash out sanded and prepped and painted it. I have a thread with lots of pics I will have to go locate and link to you.

Here is link. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-am-fm-wiring-plug-configuration

When your harness comes back from Midlife you can put is all in the dash on the bench and put your dash knobs back and set the entire dash in place like the factory did. It will save you hours of pain for sure.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
[Rubbing his hands together with power over Fraz...]No problem! You're in good hands.

 
[Rubbing his hands together with power over Fraz...]No problem! You're in good hands.
I can honestly say Midlife that besides my Dad(RIP) you are the only person to ever work on my car in the 36 years I've owned it, Ever. I do believe I'm in good hands. The forum speaks highly of you oh wise one. ::thumb::

 
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