Picture of 72 Engine bay

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Darren 72

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
237
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Location
NH
My Car
1972 Mach 1
Hey Everyone,

Does anyone have a picture of their 72 engine bay with engine installed? Looking for a close to a stock set-up. I need a go-by of where things are located like the heater core feed valve, vac control valve assembly etc...Really would like to see where these items are located in the hoses and or manifold. I also want to see where the coil is mounted. The guy I bought the car from had what I think was an Accel coil and its huge. Its square and he mounted it on the pass. apron. I want to buy a new one and mount it in the proper location.

An unrelated question: What do I gain performance wise by installing a non stock hi performance coil like Pertronix OE canister style. What were the stock ones rated at? The one I was looking at was 45,000 volts. Would this be an improvement. I have a Mallory electronic distributor.

Thanks

D. Rolls

 
Well mine is a 72 I've tried to make it look as factory as I can get away with.

I can snap off some photos.

A stock coil is 20-30,000 volts.

If your ignition system is in good shape installing a hotter coil will not do anything.

The hotter coil will burn out stock carbon filament ignition wires faster, it might wear out the tips of your plugs faster as well, but for the mileage most of us drive you will never notice or see this extra wear and tear.

A hotter coil will burn out points ignitions systems faster it can cause issues with radio noise or electrical issues if your wire harness is in poor condition.

A benefit usually is faster cold engine start ups.

Usually with a hotter coil you can run more spark plug gap, no real benefit if your ignition is working correctly to start.

If your ignition system is in marginal condition, or you have weak spark for some reason then installing a hotter coil will make your engine run better, but it's usually masking some underlying issue.

All that said it's very hard today to find a good quality regular ignition coil. Everything on the market is high powered now except for the reproduction made in china concourse yellow top coil, which has a bad reputation I used it for 3 years with no problems.

There is Also American standard ignition coils, these are not made in America, again some people have issues with them.

When I looked around for a regular lower voltage name brand coil there was nothing.

I bought an accel coil that turned out to be a high voltage coil even though it didn't say it on the box.

I have the petronix coil as well as a Msd coil.

I have run all 4 different coil and there is no difference. When I switched to electronic ignition I had to be careful to make sure the new coil had the correct ohm rating.

I found almost any modern coil meets the correct ohms. I settled on using the yellow accel coil, just because, no real reason. I had been using the reproduction yellow top coil with no issues.

After installing the accel coil I saw no change in the way the car ran at all, I just felt safer with a bran-name coil under the hood.

I did have issues in the past with Msd coils, I found they started to leak the cooling oil inside after a while. This happened 2 times with the oil filled Msd coils.

In this day and age your pretty much stuck with high voltage coils. Any of them are fine.

If your using a petronix then stick with a petronix coil as well if it makes you feel better.

Stay away from all the crap aftermarket ignition wires, spiral core, duel core, 8mm,9mm,10mm all garbage, just get regular old ford oem or reproduction carbon filament wires and your good to go.

Getting back to it, installing a high voltage coil if your ignition is in good shape will give you zero benefits, but at the same time you really have no good options for running a lower voltage coil if you wanted to.

I'll get some photos of my 72 engine bay.

 
I remember seeing a great engine shot of 72sprintsportsroof's car; it may have been one of the eBay pictures he had. His car is unmolested and hopefully he will see this thread and post it up.

 
p2120027.jpeg


p2120028.jpeg


 
Well mine is a 72 I've tried to make it look as factory as I can get away with.

I can snap off some photos.

A stock coil is 20-30,000 volts.

If your ignition system is in good shape installing a hotter coil will not do anything.

The hotter coil will burn out stock carbon filament ignition wires faster, it might wear out the tips of your plugs faster as well, but for the mileage most of us drive you will never notice or see this extra wear and tear.

A hotter coil will burn out points ignitions systems faster it can cause issues with radio noise or electrical issues if your wire harness is in poor condition.

A benefit usually is faster cold engine start ups.

Usually with a hotter coil you can run more spark plug gap, no real benefit if your ignition is working correctly to start.

If your ignition system is in marginal condition, or you have weak spark for some reason then installing a hotter coil will make your engine run better, but it's usually masking some underlying issue.

All that said it's very hard today to find a good quality regular ignition coil. Everything on the market is high powered now except for the reproduction made in china concourse yellow top coil, which has a bad reputation I used it for 3 years with no problems.

There is Also American standard ignition coils, these are not made in America, again some people have issues with them.

When I looked around for a regular lower voltage name brand coil there was nothing.

I bought an accel coil that turned out to be a high voltage coil even though it didn't say it on the box.

I have the petronix coil as well as a Msd coil.

I have run all 4 different coil and there is no difference. When I switched to electronic ignition I had to be careful to make sure the new coil had the correct ohm rating.

I found almost any modern coil meets the correct ohms. I settled on using the yellow accel coil, just because, no real reason. I had been using the reproduction yellow top coil with no issues.

After installing the accel coil I saw no change in the way the car ran at all, I just felt safer with a bran-name coil under the hood.

I did have issues in the past with Msd coils, I found they started to leak the cooling oil inside after a while. This happened 2 times with the oil filled Msd coils.

In this day and age your pretty much stuck with high voltage coils. Any of them are fine.

If your using a petronix then stick with a petronix coil as well if it makes you feel better.

Stay away from all the crap aftermarket ignition wires, spiral core, duel core, 8mm,9mm,10mm all garbage, just get regular old ford oem or reproduction carbon filament wires and your good to go.

Getting back to it, installing a high voltage coil if your ignition is in good shape will give you zero benefits, but at the same time you really have no good options for running a lower voltage coil if you wanted to.

I'll get some photos of my 72 engine bay.
Thanks for the info. Sounds like I am armed with info...looking forward to checking out your bay pics.



Thanks for the pics

 
Last edited by a moderator:
^that is original however its a non-A/C car.

it will be hard to see on mine due to the shock tower monti-carlo bars. but

72 was the only year for the Chrome Lid on the air cleaner

DSCN0305.jpg


100_1275.jpg


DSCN0309.jpg


DSCN0308.jpg


DSCN0307.jpg


DSCN0306.jpg


DSCN0312.jpg


you can just see the heater control valve here

DSCN0311.jpg


----

I put a little arrow here

heater.jpg


according to the ford assembly manual that is the port to put the heater control valve on.

coming from the firewall out of the heater core, (looking back from the front of the car) the left port of the heater core is continuous.

one hose from the core to the left side port of the water pump.

the right port, Attach the Molded S hose to the heater core, next the the heater control valve,

then the heater hose with the molded L at one end connects to the heater control valve, and the L side connects to the top of the

water pump port.

Both heater hose lines are suppose to run between the stock intake and the passenger valve cover. this is impossible with an aftermarket intake

and carb you will not have enough room, the coil is suppose to be on the passenger side. again this is impossible when using an aftermarket intake, and carb. the fuel line would of originally come up the drivers side around the back of the compressor, this is impossible with an aftermarket carb.

my engine bay is not original at all, it was the best i could do given the parts and configuration.

 
50,000$ and 6 years of my life, it still needs floors, trunk, doors, truck floor, drop downs, seat pans, paint,etc....

fuuuuuuuuuuuuuu.gif


 
wow!! that quality of work is outstanding.i just pulled my cleveland and fmx and am going to restore the engine compartment in my 72 coupe. going to use these photo's as a guide.thanks for posting them.

 
^that is original however its a non-A/C car.

it will be hard to see on mine due to the shock tower monti-carlo bars. but

72 was the only year for the Chrome Lid on the air cleaner

DSCN0305.jpg


100_1275.jpg


Ahh..thats where the vac canister goes...good reference pics

DSCN0309.jpg


DSCN0308.jpg


DSCN0307.jpg


DSCN0306.jpg


DSCN0312.jpg


you can just see the heater control valve here

DSCN0311.jpg


----

I put a little arrow here

heater.jpg


according to the ford assembly manual that is the port to put the heater control valve on.

coming from the firewall out of the heater core, (looking back from the front of the car) the left port of the heater core is continuous.

one hose from the core to the left side port of the water pump.

the right port, Attach the Molded S hose to the heater core, next the the heater control valve,

then the heater hose with the molded L at one end connects to the heater control valve, and the L side connects to the top of the

water pump port.

Both heater hose lines are suppose to run between the stock intake and the passenger valve cover. this is impossible with an aftermarket intake

and carb you will not have enough room, the coil is suppose to be on the passenger side. again this is impossible when using an aftermarket intake, and carb. the fuel line would of originally come up the drivers side around the back of the compressor, this is impossible with an aftermarket carb.

my engine bay is not original at all, it was the best i could do given the parts and configuration.



^that is original however its a non-A/C car.

it will be hard to see on mine due to the shock tower monti-carlo bars. but

72 was the only year for the Chrome Lid on the air cleaner

DSCN0305.jpg


100_1275.jpg


Ahh..thats where the vac canister goes...good reference pics

DSCN0309.jpg


DSCN0308.jpg


DSCN0307.jpg


DSCN0306.jpg


DSCN0312.jpg


you can just see the heater control valve here

DSCN0311.jpg


----

I put a little arrow here

heater.jpg


according to the ford assembly manual that is the port to put the heater control valve on.

coming from the firewall out of the heater core, (looking back from the front of the car) the left port of the heater core is continuous.

one hose from the core to the left side port of the water pump.

the right port, Attach the Molded S hose to the heater core, next the the heater control valve,

then the heater hose with the molded L at one end connects to the heater control valve, and the L side connects to the top of the

water pump port.

Both heater hose lines are suppose to run between the stock intake and the passenger valve cover. this is impossible with an aftermarket intake

and carb you will not have enough room, the coil is suppose to be on the passenger side. again this is impossible when using an aftermarket intake, and carb. the fuel line would of originally come up the drivers side around the back of the compressor, this is impossible with an aftermarket carb.

my engine bay is not original at all, it was the best i could do given the parts and configuration.
So does the heater valve still have a use when there is no ac? Will it shut if you put the temp control on cool? I would think even though there is no ac you would still need to control the flow of the hot water in the summer time or it will dissipate in the cab and be hot.....Is this correct.



^that is original however its a non-A/C car.

it will be hard to see on mine due to the shock tower monti-carlo bars. but

72 was the only year for the Chrome Lid on the air cleaner

DSCN0305.jpg


100_1275.jpg


Ahh..thats where the vac canister goes...good reference pics

DSCN0309.jpg


DSCN0308.jpg


DSCN0307.jpg


DSCN0306.jpg


DSCN0312.jpg


you can just see the heater control valve here

DSCN0311.jpg


----

I put a little arrow here

heater.jpg


according to the ford assembly manual that is the port to put the heater control valve on.

coming from the firewall out of the heater core, (looking back from the front of the car) the left port of the heater core is continuous.

one hose from the core to the left side port of the water pump.

the right port, Attach the Molded S hose to the heater core, next the the heater control valve,

then the heater hose with the molded L at one end connects to the heater control valve, and the L side connects to the top of the

water pump port.

Both heater hose lines are suppose to run between the stock intake and the passenger valve cover. this is impossible with an aftermarket intake

and carb you will not have enough room, the coil is suppose to be on the passenger side. again this is impossible when using an aftermarket intake, and carb. the fuel line would of originally come up the drivers side around the back of the compressor, this is impossible with an aftermarket carb.

my engine bay is not original at all, it was the best i could do given the parts and configuration.



^that is original however its a non-A/C car.

it will be hard to see on mine due to the shock tower monti-carlo bars. but

72 was the only year for the Chrome Lid on the air cleaner

DSCN0305.jpg


100_1275.jpg


Ahh..thats where the vac canister goes...good reference pics

DSCN0309.jpg


DSCN0308.jpg


DSCN0307.jpg


DSCN0306.jpg


DSCN0312.jpg


you can just see the heater control valve here

DSCN0311.jpg


----

I put a little arrow here

heater.jpg


according to the ford assembly manual that is the port to put the heater control valve on.

coming from the firewall out of the heater core, (looking back from the front of the car) the left port of the heater core is continuous.

one hose from the core to the left side port of the water pump.

the right port, Attach the Molded S hose to the heater core, next the the heater control valve,

then the heater hose with the molded L at one end connects to the heater control valve, and the L side connects to the top of the

water pump port.

Both heater hose lines are suppose to run between the stock intake and the passenger valve cover. this is impossible with an aftermarket intake

and carb you will not have enough room, the coil is suppose to be on the passenger side. again this is impossible when using an aftermarket intake, and carb. the fuel line would of originally come up the drivers side around the back of the compressor, this is impossible with an aftermarket carb.

my engine bay is not original at all, it was the best i could do given the parts and configuration.
So does the heater valve still have a use when there is no ac? Will it shut if you put the temp control on cool? I would think even though there is no ac you would still need to control the flow of the hot water in the summer time or it will dissipate in the cab and be hot.....Is this correct.
Your bay color looks stock. What kind of paint did you use. I wouldn't worry about it not being exact. Its great! I hope mine comes out half as good.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
>So does the heater valve still have a use when there is no ac? Will it shut if you put the temp control on cool? I would think even though there is no ac you would >still need to control the flow of the hot water in the summer time or it will dissipate in the cab and be hot.....Is this correct.

Your right, personally i have never seen a 71-73 mustang in my area that was a no a/c car with the original heater core system working.

Every time i go to a show these cars have been gutted out and the heater cores removed along with the original hoses from the engine bay.

Of the photos i have seen on the internet for completed cars i've never seen any of them with a valve located in the engine bay before the firewall.

of the Heater only boxes i've seen there is also no valve. there are cable connections to 2 knobs that mounted under the dash in the drivers/passenger footwells that closed off baffle doors which choked off the heat from the heater core and redirected the fan to blow or suck in fresh outside air into the car.

there was control of the fan speed but it appears the heater only cars used a manual baffle to stop heating the air over the heater core, while the a/c cars used a vacuum control valve in the engine bay to choke off the coolant to the core inside the car.

again, i have never seen a heater only car in person that was not gutted out and all the parts removed for Weight reduction.

>Your bay color looks stock. What kind of paint did you use. I wouldn't worry about it not being exact. Its great! I hope mine comes out half as good.

I used SEM Paint "trim black" which is a semi gloss color, i thought it looked very nice under the hood so i went with it. it lays down nice from the spray can. i used a SEM Metal Etch gray primer under it for the entire engine bay.

 
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