Replacing Cam Bearings on a 351C

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Joined
Aug 7, 2010
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Location
McDermitt, NV
My Car
1973 Convertible H Code, 351C 2V FMX
Well, I was almost ready to start putting the motor back together, when I was inspecting the cam bearings and noticed the #3 bearing was slightly damaged. So, I figured I might as well replace them while I've got everything torn apart.

First, I needed to order the bearings (about $35 for the set of 5 from the local NAPA) and then track down a cam bearing tool and figure out how to use it. I was able to borrow one and through trial and error figured out how to put it together and use it to both removed the old bearing and install the new ones.

Here's what the tool looks like assembled:

Cam Bearing Tool Laid out.JPG

I didn't have the instructions for the tool, and couldn't find much help on the internet, so here's a picture of the business end of the tool when assembled:

Cam Bearning tool assembled.JPG

And here it is with the parts disassembled:

Cam Bearning tool disassembled.JPG

Here's a picture of the old cam bearings, and you can see why #3 needed to be replaced:

Old Cam Bearings.JPG

Using the cam bearing tool is pretty straight forward. Slide the tool into the cam journal, then place the bearing on the business end of the tool and tighten the knob until it's snug. Then line up the bearing with the journal and tap the tool until the cam is seated. Make sure the oil holes in the bearing line up.

Cam Bearing tool in use.JPG

Using the cam bearing tool.JPG

Make sure that the cam is centered and aligned correctly. If not, you'll be able to tell because it' really hard to tap the bearing in. If you just keep whacking it, it'll eventually go in, but you'll damage the bearing and then you'll have to buy a whole new set to replace the one (or two) that you damaged. That's what happened with bearings 2 and 4 (pictured here) when I stubbornly just bashed away until they were ruined:

Screwed up 4th cam bearing.JPG

So, now I'm waiting on another set so I can re-do 2 and 4, and then really get started on the rebuild.

Doc

 
I have family living in the Last town along the Atchafalaya river in Louisiana before you get to the Gulf, so thanks for your well wishes! They are counting on a 16 foot seawall along the riverfront, and a whole series of earthen levees to keep the water out of town.

Doc, is this your first engine rebuild? Impressive doing the cam bearings yourself. I've torn mine down to the short block, and should finish the disassembly to have the block checked before too much longer, I hope.

 
Make sure you set the front cam bearing to the proper distance past flush. Check your service manual for the proper measurement but I believe it is recessed something like .003-.005. This is critical for proper oil control.

 
Thanks, folks. Yes, this is my first engine rebuild. I working on the logic that the shade tree mechanics of 40 - 50 years ago didn't always have the money to take their motors to the pros, yet they were able to re-build them and soup them up. Since there isn't much available along those lines in my small town anyway, I figure that if I can get the special tools and as much info as I can on the internet, I might be OK. I'm anxious to start putting her back together, though, and this method is much more time consuming.

Doc

 
Make sure you set the front cam bearing to the proper distance past flush. Check your service manual for the proper measurement but I believe it is recessed something like .003-.005. This is critical for proper oil control.
To bring this thread back from the dead.. If you are looking at the front of the engine, the bearing would be sunken in .003-.005 right? 

The shop manual's wording is kind of odd to me, and someone on a different forum said "stick out" which seems wrong. 

frontcambearing.jpg


Should be like this?:

2EJpmzDl.png
4kepdbKl.jpg


It's also a little confusing because it seems like the bearing will sit past the chamfer on my block. The chamfer is about 1/16 Just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing before I do it, I'm pretty confident I can align the oil holes and use the tool properly at this point.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes, you are correct, when installed correctly it will be slightly recessed.
Thanks, I just whacked them all in.. I am measuring .010-.012 below on #1. I will take a little break and give it that last little tap when I get home later.

 
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