6 3/4 speakers in door?

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Cliff717

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Jun 5, 2015
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Ontario
My Car
1972 sprint fastback mustang
So I i'm starting to instal the audio in the mustang. I have four 6 3/4 inch Rockford t series component speakers to install in the car. Thinking of putting the front two in the doors. Has anyone put them there? Will they fit?

 
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You'll wind up cutting your own holes, but beyond that the only issues you will run into is overall diameter interfering with the manual window cranks, and the mounting depth (magnet & cone basket) potentially interfering with the window regulator mechanism inside.

You might consider installing them into the kick panels, but be advised that the e-brake pedal will give you fits if you go that route. Austin Vert has a nice write up on how his installed his speakers into the kick panels and modified the e-brake pedal to clear them.

Fosgates tend to have deep baskets and huge magnets, so you'll definitely want to take a LOT of measurements before committing to a mounting location.

Hope that helps!

 
I would consider placing them in the rear parcel shelf if the baskets are as deep as Eric says and the kickpanel route sounds too involved for a pair of speakers. Failing that take door panel off and take measurents then look in to buying some differant speakers that will fit into door spaces. My personel preference would be rear parcel shelf for ease of fitting.

 
I would consider placing them in the rear parcel shelf if the baskets are as deep as Eric says and the kick panel route sounds too involved for a pair of speakers. Failing that take door panel off and take measurements then look in to buying some different speakers that will fit into door spaces. My personal preference would be rear parcel shelf for ease of fitting.
Definitely pull the door panels for the measuring process - always solid advice. ::thumb::

He mentioned having 4 of them, so I would assume he's planning on installing a pair in the package tray, and looking for a 'front channel' solution in the doors as well. ;)

He also said 't series component,' which leads me to think along these lines:

g575T4652S-F.jpg


This is going to require someplace to mount the cross-over (which I think the kick panel might be best for that), and somewhere up high for the tweeter. The baskets on the main speakers are pretty deep, but at least they appear to be small enough in diameter to maybe just miss the window regulator if positioned correctly. I would think they'll need to be surface mounted after the door panel is back on, otherwise the backside of the magnet could actually contact the inside of the outer door skins if mounted in the traditional lower front area of the doors.

This will be a challenge for sure - thanks to the depth of the baskets, the huge magnets, and heat sinks, it's going to be very similar to mounting a pair of small subs in the doors.

Good luck!

 
Yes that is the exact said I am using in the doors. They are quite large speakers. I am planning on mounting the crossover in the trunk with the amp and the subs and running two individual lines forward; one in the door for the woofer and one on the dash somewhere for the tweeter. I have Kick panels for the car right now and I am definitely not impressed with him. I got them from CJ pony and I mounted a teeny pair of 5 1/4 Kenwood speakers in it and they still barely fit! And I'm not a fan of altering The E brake pedal either LOL so I have sort of decided against kick panel speakers. If I can get these things in the door that would be awesome! If not I can put all four of them in the package tray. I don't know whether to cut them into the rear steel deck or to make a box that they will go into. I think the box would look sort of crappy but it would save me cutting holes in the steel of the mustang

 
Not sure if you have gone ahead and fitted yet. I just took one of the door panels off. My speakers are by no means as big as the ones your fitting. I hope the picture gives you some help. I feel sure yours will fit where mine were situated near the front of the door. If you need me to take some measurements just let me know

20160828_160308.jpg

 
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Ha! Looks like the same folks mounted speakers up in your car as had been done in mine.

attachment.php


I'd just cut the proper 4x7" holes, but they intersected with the 5 1/4" holes the previous owners had hacked out of the doors. I mounted up the Retrosound speakers after making some patches for the hack jobs - obviously, a little later in the day after getting this mess under control. ;) :D

 
Ha! Looks like the same folks mounted speakers up in your car as had been done in mine.

attachment.php


I'd just cut the proper 4x7" holes, but they intersected with the 5 1/4" holes the previous owners had hacked out of the doors. I mounted up the Retrosound speakers after making some patches for the hack jobs - obviously, a little later in the day after getting this mess under control. ;) :D
Damn!!!! All that wiring would frighten the life out of me :shootself:

 
I fit some clarion type-x components in my mustang. Where the door panels had the spot for running the mirror cable through above the window crank I ended up putting the tweeters there. I put the component speakers in the same location as the pictures in this thread. I then put 6x9 in the package tray area, I drilled a bunch of holes in it so the speakers are hidden but the sound comes through the holes. I can grab pictures tonight if anyone is interested.

Doorspeaker.jpg

 
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I fit some clarion type-x components in my mustang. Where the door panels had the spot for running the mirror cable through I ended up putting the tweeters there. I put the 6 1/2" speakers in the same location as the pictures in this thread. I then put 6x9 in the package tray area, I drilled a bunch of holes in it so the speakers are hidden but the sound comes through the holes. I can grab pictures tonight if anyone is interested.
Always good to see pics of how differant people tackle this popular job

 
Always good to see pics of how differant people tackle this popular job
Ok, i'll grab some tonight. I did edit my comment though because thinking on it and seeing the picture I am not sure on the size, thought it was 6 1/2 but now wondering if it was 5 1/4"

 
Damn!!!! All that wiring would frighten the life out of me :shootself:
It looks worse than it was. Mine didn't come with any power accessories, but I wanted power everything (being a Day 2 restomod). The wires in the pic are all pretty much all for the aftermarket accessories:

  • Classic Auto Air HVAC
  • Retrosound stereo - 4 channels w/subwoofer channel output
  • MTX Terminator 10" subs with matching 400 watt amp
  • Autoloc power windows (quarter windows, too)
  • Autoloc power locks
  • Autoloc keyless entry/alarm system
  • Pyle Audio back-up camera


I needed to add 'extension cords' to the power windows, since I located the switches in the center console (since it already had holes in it anyway). Later in the day after this pic, I had everything soldered, shrunk, bundled, and tucked away.

 
Damn!!!! All that wiring would frighten the life out of me :shootself:
It looks worse than it was. Mine didn't come with any power accessories, but I wanted power everything (being a Day 2 restomod). The wires in the pic are all pretty much all for the aftermarket accessories:

  • Classic Auto Air HVAC
  • Retrosound stereo - 4 channels w/subwoofer channel output
  • MTX Terminator 10" subs with matching 400 watt amp
  • Autoloc power windows (quarter windows, too)
  • Autoloc power locks
  • Autoloc keyless entry/alarm system
  • Pyle Audio back-up camera


I needed to add 'extension cords' to the power windows, since I located the switches in the center console (since it already had holes in it anyway). Later in the day after this pic, I had everything soldered, shrunk, bundled, and tucked away.
Nice setup, power locks and windows would have been awesome to have. I have 2 12" eclipse subs right now but haven't hooked them up yet. Did you need a larger alternator? Worried I'll drain my stock replacement one too much. I have a 4 channel amp running the front speakers, 4 channel amp running the rear (all bridged) and a 400w mtx amp for the subs.

 
I haven't quite gotten that far yet. It all runs fine so far with the stock replacement alternator. Mine originally came equipped with a rear window defroster that I did not reinstall, which might be why I had a 30-amp breaker rather than a 20-amp originally. Honestly, most of those accessories won't all be running all at the same time, just short little runs here and there, so I'm not too concerned will killing the battery.

I'll still probably wind up with a higher-amp alternator after it's all said and done, though. I also have an H4 headlight kit and harness to install (still looks stock, no bling rings for me), along with dash-lights replacement LEDs, and some LED taillights. Those LEDs might offer up some power savings, but not enough to offset the draw from the H4 system (when it's dark and they're running, of course). Add to that the stereo playing, fuel injection along with the engine, and deciding to roll up/down the windows - yeah, I can see quite a load happening.

As of right now though, the amp and subs are still on the shelf, since I haven't actually built the box for the space behind the standard rear seat (which that space is just begging for some subs). Just gotta find some time for all that, in addition to putting down the last of the RAAMmat in the trunk area as well.

 
Ha! Looks like the same folks mounted speakers up in your car as had been done in mine.

attachment.php


I'd just cut the proper 4x7" holes, but they intersected with the 5 1/4" holes the previous owners had hacked out of the doors. I mounted up the Retrosound speakers after making some patches for the hack jobs - obviously, a little later in the day after getting this mess under control. ;) :D
I love this picture! Be still, my loving heart! :thankyouyellow:

 
I almost have a secondary wiring harness for the aftermarket goodies now. All of that happened before the windshield was installed, so I dropped it all into the dash from the top and tried to keep it as hassle-free as possible.

I also don't think I used more than a handful of butt connectors on the whole car - solder, shrink tubing, split-loom, and tape, baby! ::thumb::

 
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