LCA stiffener plates

Thought I would throw this out there. I am in the process of repairing and updating my front suspension. I did not have the money to go with a tubular system but wanted an upgrade from stock. Based on how the original suspension was designed with stamped steel LCA and UCAs I decided to add plates to the new LCAs to prevent flex under cornering and braking due to the attachment point of the strut rods. First I made a template then cut them out of 1/8" steel plate with a hole drilled for access to the sway bar bolts but cut short of the strut rod bolts. I then marked the plates at two bend points to get the curve of the LCA right. Heated the new plates with my torch and bent then over a piece of pipe to get the curve. This is a trial and error process to get it just right and you need some really good gloves as the heat necessary to get a good curve in 1/8" plate is more than you think. Once they fit properly I cleaned them up and primed and painted both sides to match the LCA as once attached you cannot coat the bottom of the plate easily. I them set in place and used a marker to mark off the weld area on both the plate and LCA. Grind off the new paint. Coat with Weld-Thru II. Weld the plates into place. Be sure to use ice and rags to isolate the ball joint and bushings from heat. The more the better as you don't want to melt them. Also weld in small sections alternating from side to side and end to end to disburse the heat better. Grind down the welds and prime and paint. They are ready to install on the vehicle. Should perform like a tubular LCA for much less.

Prior to welding on.

Welded in place.

Refinished.

73pony,

Fabulous! Looks good. The body man who worked on my 73 mustang, used copper strips to help remove the heat. He would strategically place the copper strips around the part to help reduce the heat.

Thanks for the post.

mustang7173

Awesome.... thank you for posting.

1971 M-code Mach 1

If anyone is interested in a set of the plates my local shop saved the design for me. They will cut them out of 10Ga (1/8") steel plate for $30.00 plus tax. I can have them made up and sent to you for the $30 plus tax and what ever shipping is. You will have to put your own curve in them though.

Nice upgrade... I like it!!

Thought I would throw this out there. I am in the process of repairing and updating my front suspension. I did not have the money to go with a tubular system but wanted an upgrade from stock. Based on how the original suspension was designed with stamped steel LCA and UCAs I decided to add plates to the new LCAs to prevent flex under cornering and braking due to the attachment point of the strut rods. First I made a template then cut them out of 1/8" steel plate with a hole drilled for access to the sway bar bolts but cut short of the strut rod bolts. I then marked the plates at two bend points to get the curve of the LCA right. Heated the new plates with my torch and bent then over a piece of pipe to get the curve. This is a trial and error process to get it just right and you need some really good gloves as the heat necessary to get a good curve in 1/8" plate is more than you think. Once they fit properly I cleaned them up and primed and painted both sides to match the LCA as once attached you cannot coat the bottom of the plate easily. I them set in place and used a marker to mark off the weld area on both the plate and LCA. Grind off the new paint. Coat with Weld-Thru II. Weld the plates into place. Be sure to use ice and rags to isolate the ball joint and bushings from heat. The more the better as you don't want to melt them. Also weld in small sections alternating from side to side and end to end to disburse the heat better. Grind down the welds and prime and paint. They are ready to install on the vehicle. Should perform like a tubular LCA for much less.

Click to expand...

would like to get a set of these plates, how to go about it?

Thanks, Don

Easy to make yourself. If you want to improve your handling and still be able to use stock parts, get a new shaft and bushing kit and ball joint for your upper control arm. If your lower control arm ball joint is good, you can box it, or get a new one. RockAuto has an LCA ball joint, but I think it's about as much as a new lower control arm.

https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/4224676-post1.html

While you're at it, you can also box the uppers, to get performance almost as good as tubulars.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolb...arms/29323

As others have said, there's nothing wrong with the front suspension and steering on our cars. Ford improved the geometry for '71, no longer any need for the UCA lowering or Mustang II front ends. Old, worn out parts are the problem. The rag joint is the most frequent, and overlooked, problem.

Dynacorn make the plate for the lower

They had the reinforced control arm - I don't see it at this time though



CONTROL ARM REINFORCEMENT LOWER

Part #: 3631JF

68-73

Easy to make yourself. If you want to improve your handling and still be able to use stock parts, get a new shaft and bushing kit and ball joint for your upper control arm. If your lower control arm ball joint is good, you can box it, or get a new one. RockAuto has an LCA ball joint, but I think it's about as much as a new lower control arm.

https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/4224676-post1.html

While you're at it, you can also box the uppers, to get performance almost as good as tubulars.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolb...arms/29323

As others have said, there's nothing wrong with the front suspension and steering on our cars. Ford improved the geometry for '71, no longer any need for the UCA lowering or Mustang II front ends. Old, worn out parts are the problem. The rag joint is the most frequent, and overlooked, problem.

Click to expand...

thanks for all the info!!