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Price is right for sure. Question is do you trust the work done with the crank and bearings?

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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I can tell you this. I recently sold a 351c that was in need a complete build for more than $350.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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I can tell you this. I recently sold a 351c that was in need a complete build for more than $350.

 

If they still have it I figure it is worth the block if the crosshatch is still good. About 15 miles from me.

 

I wonder how I can tell if it is stolen?

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These are my red flags:

 

1. Did he blueprint the pistons? (weight matches piston to piston).

2. He didn't tell you the under on the crank. What is it? I understand anything greater than .0015 is a problem.

Take some of the putty sticks and after he gives you a number, pull a crank journal mount off and check with the putty. See what it tells you(I know there is a putty accuracy controversy, but what are you gonna do). I would also take my own CERTIFIED ACCURATE torque wrench to confirm.

3. He didn't tell you the over on the pistons. Are they .030? And, whatever he tells you, double check.

4. He should have the receipt for the machine shop who did the work, so you can check with them on their reliability.

 

I could/will be writing a book about this. But that is more than a start.

 

Oh, and most importantly, did he paint the block yet and is the paint dry.

11jmcuc.png

351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude

Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

 

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me

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I think its worth the price. Even if you completely disassemble it and clean everything up,verify fitment and machining, then put it back together.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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If I get it the plan is to blow it all apart and check clearances. And store it. I have a 4 bolt main block in the car, but I question some of the decisions I made twenty years ago.

 

For $350 a spare in cosmoline in the corner might not be a bad idea.

 

I would build it as a low compression stroker with trick flow heads and relocate my 174 supercharger and try for 10# of boost.

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Its a good price. I would take it apart and check the clearances and then reassemble and store it away. When you go to look at it take a caliper with you so that you can measure the bore.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Its a good price. I would take it apart and check the clearances and then reassemble and store it away. When you go to look at it take a caliper with you so that you can measure the bore.

 

Ya.

 

I will have to break out the bitching set of tools from when I rebuilt my wankel.

 

Telescopic bore sizes and mitu mics

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Well... there it is. :cool:

 

All things considered, I think it's a good deal - even if you just pull it all apart and start all over, 351C blocks alone are getting tougher to find for that kind of money.

 

Sounds like you found yourself something cool to me. Good luck! ::thumb::

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Work got in the way.

 

Somebody got a good deal. :/

 

Oh well. Maybe next time.

 

Well, let's say the pistons were .060 over and the crank was -.0015. Does anyone think that would be a good deal? To me it is a boat anchor.

11jmcuc.png

351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude

Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

 

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me

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Work got in the way.

 

Somebody got a good deal. :/

 

Oh well. Maybe next time.

 

Well, let's say the pistons were .060 over and the crank was -.0015. Does anyone think that would be a good deal? To me it is a boat anchor.

 

.060 over is a little too much in my opinion, but .040 isn't bad as everyone thinks! I ran a 40 over Cleveland for years with 0 issues and a 20 - 20 under crank. In a mild street build it would be fine.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Sorry you missed the deal. It looked like a good thing. I hoped the buyer asked for receipts!

 

 

mustang7173

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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Well, let's say the pistons were .060 over and the crank was -.0015. Does anyone think that would be a good deal? To me it is a boat anchor.

 

Here we go again. :shootself:

 

If .060" over is so bad, why are there so many piston/ring options out there? It's no different than the doc saying your cholesterol's too high at 225 when the top line of 'Normal' is 240. :whistling:

 

Mine's running .060" over with a .010"/.010" original crank - and runs like a champ. Properly managed and purposed, .060" should be just fine for daily/occasional normal driving. Racing, probably not so much.

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Well, let's say the pistons were .060 over and the crank was -.0015. Does anyone think that would be a good deal? To me it is a boat anchor.

 

Here we go again. :shootself:

 

If .060" over is so bad, why are there so many piston/ring options out there? It's no different than the doc saying your cholesterol's too high at 225 when the top line of 'Normal' is 240. :whistling:

 

Mine's running .060" over with a .010"/.010" original crank - and runs like a champ. Properly managed and purposed, .060" should be just fine for daily/occasional normal driving. Racing, probably not so much.

 

yep ::thumb::

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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