Power Steering pump pulley

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digithead

Well-known member
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Jan 24, 2016
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Location
UPSTATE NY
My Car
1973 Mustang 351C-4V 4BBL 4 SPEED CONVERTIBLE White
Is it possible to simply put a larger diameter pulley on the Power steering pump, lowering the RPMS, to lower the boost pressure? Love my car but its such a light touch at 60mph. Would love a tighter feel and hug to the road. Way over boosted in my opinion.

 
i don't really think it would make a major difference. but with that said i know there is a product out there that is mounted between both lines and is adjustable. it's really a bypass valve and this does reduce the pressure.. basically opening the valve more transfers the pressure side fluid to the return side. the more u open it the closer it get to zero.. i doubt it goes to zero but does reduce pressure.. google it but i recall seeing them on ebay.

my fairlane had the same problem, even at idle.. little finger worked very well..

 
Does not take flare fittings but you will have to custom make your supply and return lines to accommodate the valve and the pump and box take flare fittings (Double Flare). The valve takes 3/8" NPT and 1/4" NPT.

Install directions.

http://www.heidts.com/inst/in-053.pdf
thanks. so you basically are chopping both lines and inserting this in them (4 connections). Anyone here ever done it??

 
I was planning on using some braided high pressure stainless lines. There is a truck shop in town here that will make them custom length and fittings. They tell me rated for 2000 PSI.

 
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Removing the belt ??? i'd suggest looking for a mid 40's pickup and drive it... that's why the steering wheels were 3ft in dia., they are a beast.

i say u'd drive 40ft and take it back in garage and put belt back on...

 
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It may work, but the ad for this calls for "rack-and-pinion" steering only. I'm thinking that the volume it would allow through might be too small for a Saginaw 800 box. Good idea though.
I saw that too so I checked with Heidts directly and they did not know why Summit has that on their site. They told me most of the application of this is in cars with steering box and not rack and pinion.

 
The internal valving tries to maintain a consistent pressure (1,100 - 1,200 psi), no matter the pump speed, which is why a larger pulley won't work. You could probably reduce the idle pressure, but that is all.

Something like this 850 psi valve might work:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-850psi-valve

 
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The internal valving tries to maintain a consistent pressure (1,100 - 1,200 psi), no matter the pump speed, which is why a larger pulley won't work. You could probably reduce the idle pressure, but that is all.

Something like this 850 psi valve might work:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-850psi-valve
THanks, that makes a lot of sense. I get it now. Wish there was a easy fix!

I had 1990 BMW 750il that had variable boost and took care of it automatically based on speed. So I got a bit spoiled.

 
It may work, but the ad for this calls for "rack-and-pinion" steering only. I'm thinking that the volume it would allow through might be too small for a Saginaw 800 box. Good idea though.
I saw that too so I checked with Heidts directly and they did not know why Summit has that on their site. They told me most of the application of this is in cars with steering box and not rack and pinion.
Just got back to this and your reply is definitely interesting for my upcoming winter's work. There may be a need for custom lines to be made up though.

In my case. I am in need for a complete S/box rebuild and ratio change to 12.7:1. I did a rebuild with new seals, but it's way too tired to get the slop out of it.

Thanks for checking with Heidts.

 
Ford did have different diameter pulleys based on the application.

Best thing you can do to firm up the steering is to rebuild your front suspension and steering. New ball joints and tie rod ends will make a huge difference in the steering feel. Don't forget an idler and pitman arm as well. If your box is sloppy and/or leaking, rebuilding it will also make a huge difference in steering feel.

 
The internal valving tries to maintain a consistent pressure (1,100 - 1,200 psi), no matter the pump speed, which is why a larger pulley won't work. You could probably reduce the idle pressure, but that is all.

Something like this 850 psi valve might work:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-850psi-valve
Thanks thats interesting I didnt know that was a option! This looks like easy fix it lowers pressure by just bypassing sooner right.

 
The internal valving tries to maintain a consistent pressure (1,100 - 1,200 psi), no matter the pump speed, which is why a larger pulley won't work. You could probably reduce the idle pressure, but that is all.

Something like this 850 psi valve might work:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-850psi-valve
Thanks thats interesting I didnt know that was a option! This looks like easy fix it lowers pressure by just bypassing sooner right.
Yes, I believe that is the way it works.

 
I also thought a quicker ratio and all new front suspension and steering components would turn into more road feel in the wheel, but NO LUCK, my car steers as easy as ever. I'm just going to get used it!!:whistling:

 
I wanted to add some more info for the future.

1) The regulator piston that Don posted is for the Saginaw canned ham style pump. Those pumps are ultra common in other applications and are very easy to tune the output pressure on. The output pressure is controlled by the length of the piston. The shorter it is the higher the pressure. You can get new pistons or get shim kits to put shims under the nut to increase the overall length. All you have to do is remove the high pressure line from the pump then remove the fitting from the back of the pump. The piston is inside. Messy job but not difficult. I am no guru on the subject but I think there were some stock 351C applications that used this pump so OEM style brackets are out there but are hard to find. Other options include all of the billet stuff made by March and others.

2) As best as I can tell the output pressure of the ford style pump cannot easily be lowered. I "think" it could be changed by swapping springs (or possibly grinding them shorter) in the pump, but I don't know of anyone who makes spring kits, or if that is even how it works for certain.

3) Steering feels is controlled by a lot of things, but one of the main factors is the size of the torsion bar inside the steering box. If you look at the end of the input shaft where the rag joint connects on the splined shaft you will see a protrusion that is about 1/4" and smooth. This is the torsion bar, it is spring steel and connects to the valve inside the box. When you steer the wheel one way or the other this torsion bar deflects clockwise or counterclockwise depending on which way you are turning the wheel. Once it deflects the valve ports oil to one side of the piston or the other and gives you power steering. The smaller the torsion bar the easier it deflects, and the less effort you have to put on your steering wheel before the assist kicks in. Even if you swap guts in the box for the quick 12.7:1 ratio or go to an original variable ratio box if you keep the same Mustang input assembly you will still have a torsion bar that is about .185", which is pretty small and does not give you much feel. Nothing can change this unless you up the size of the torsion bar. It really isn't a DIY friendly project, unless you swap the entire input assembly for one that has a larger t-bar. There were F body (Camaro, Firebird) GM cars that had .210 diameter torsion bars. I did this swap in mine, the only issue is making a custom rag joint to connect the 30 spline GM input to the Ford column. Also a steering box shop that has the tools can install a new, larger torsion bar in your old box (but I don't know who does this work).

Anyway I just wanted to toss my $.02 in. If you want to change feel you really need to swap torsion bars in the box. Also should lower pressure by swapping to a Saginaw style pump, or using an external regulator.

Peter

 
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