rebuild or not...please look at pics.

Just pulled off one of the heads and found one of the pistons to be beat up at the corner. the cylinder wall doesn't feel to bad, looks like it will definitely need to be bored out. the head has some indentions on it as well, where the bad piston is.

Can you please give me some advise before I take this to the machine shop.

Thanks in advance

updated with new pic

hard to tell from the pic but if it is a standard bore block (never bored before) no problem boring and rebuilding.

I agree you can go to 60 over without problems as far as the block goes. As for the heads unless you want a stock look depending on how much work they need sometimes aftermarket heads are a better option. I had everything done on my 4v heads and it wasn't cheap. But I did need to get them machined for roller rockers though.

looks like damage from something being dropped down the intake and made it's way into the cylinder. Seen that happen with carb. nuts. They are easy to drop down the bore when carb is off. It looks like #2 cylinder, passenger side. It's physical damage from some foreign object.

Might need a bore to clean up that cylinder. I'd let a machinist make that determination.

Personally, I don't like more than .030 on my engines, but to each his own. You usually wind up with overheating issues at more than .030 over. The blocks are pretty thin.

I agree .030" is the limit for a street driven Cleveland. If you go more the blocks need to be stabilized with hard block. WAIT... That's not a Cleveland, I'd still stick to a max of 30 over. Again find a reputable machinist and follow his advice. Interview as many shops as possible and find one you trust. There are several Texas members, maybe they'll chime in with suggestions.


I agree .030" is the limit for a street driven Cleveland. If you go more the blocks need to be stabilized with hard block. WAIT... That's not a Cleveland, I'd still stick to a max of 30 over. Again find a reputable machinist and follow his advice. Interview as many shops as possible and find one you trust. There are several Texas members, maybe they'll chime in with suggestions.

Another possibility is to find a good 5.0 roller cam block to rebuild and lose the worries of wiping out a camshaft on break in.

I agree 100% with DropTop73. The roller block is the way to go. High nickel content so they don't hardly wear the cylinders. I've pulled them apart after 100K miles and you can still see the crosshatch factory hone pattern in the bores. they seem to love crank and rod bearings though.

Another possibility is to find a good 5.0 roller cam block to rebuild and lose the worries of wiping out a camshaft on break in.

Click to expand...

I agree 100% with DropTop73. The roller block is the way to go. High nickel content so they don't hardly wear the cylinders. I've pulled them apart after 100K miles and you can still see the crosshatch factory hone pattern in the bores. they seem to love crank and rod bearings though.

Another possibility is to find a good 5.0 roller cam block to rebuild and lose the worries of wiping out a camshaft on break in.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

I really hate to disagree but why in the world would you go from a mighty 351C to a 5.0:huh: But hey good to have options just not the one I would choose for our cars. I would also stick to the .030 over theory though.

Looking at the pictures of the block and head, that's not a Cleveland that he's having issues with.

I agree 100% with DropTop73. The roller block is the way to go. High nickel content so they don't hardly wear the cylinders. I've pulled them apart after 100K miles and you can still see the crosshatch factory hone pattern in the bores. they seem to love crank and rod bearings though.

Another possibility is to find a good 5.0 roller cam block to rebuild and lose the worries of wiping out a camshaft on break in.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

I really hate to disagree but why in the world would you go from a mighty 351C to a 5.0:huh: But hey good to have options just not the one I would choose for our cars. I would also stick to the .030 over theory though.

Click to expand...

:blush: DOH!!!!!!!!!!!sorry just looked for the marks and assumed. And yes it worked agian...................that old saying about assuming:dodgy:

I agree 100% with DropTop73. The roller block is the way to go. High nickel content so they don't hardly wear the cylinders. I've pulled them apart after 100K miles and you can still see the crosshatch factory hone pattern in the bores. they seem to love crank and rod bearings though.

Another possibility is to find a good 5.0 roller cam block to rebuild and lose the worries of wiping out a camshaft on break in.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

I really hate to disagree but why in the world would you go from a mighty 351C to a 5.0:huh: But hey good to have options just not the one I would choose for our cars. I would also stick to the .030 over theory though.

Click to expand...

Roy, you did this ...

Had silver car with mighty 351C 4 speed

Now have black car with 5.0

Don

you guy's are all right mine is 30 over. didn't proof read before posting.

I agree 100% with DropTop73. The roller block is the way to go. High nickel content so they don't hardly wear the cylinders. I've pulled them apart after 100K miles and you can still see the crosshatch factory hone pattern in the bores. they seem to love crank and rod bearings though.

Click to expand...

I really hate to disagree but why in the world would you go from a mighty 351C to a 5.0:huh: But hey good to have options just not the one I would choose for our cars. I would also stick to the .030 over theory though.

Click to expand...

Roy, you did this ...

Had silver car with mighty 351C 4 speed

Now have black car with 5.0

Don

Click to expand...

AND STILL HAVE KINDA SILVER CAR KINDA GREY KINDA GREEN WITH A 351C(actually a 408 with aluminum heads) with 4 speed, Just got a new almost daily driver