2V cam

Any cam suggestions.

73 convertable

73 2V motor open chamber 2V heads

Heads shaved -031" to raise compression

ported with 3 angle stainless valves

Air gap 4V manifold with head ports matched

1 3/4 headers to 2 1/2 exhaust with cross over pipe.

3 speed FMX with shift kit

recurved dizzy with pertronix conversion

Holley 600 vacuum secondaries

3.20 rear gears posi with traction bars

295 BF radial tires on back.

Goal pull hard 2,000 to 6,000 rpm with slight loopy idle and little as possible mods to the valve train. Trying to avoid head mods like guides and screw studs.

Any cam suggestions.

73 convertible

73 2V motor open chamber 2V heads

Heads shaved -031" to raise compression

ported with 3 angle stainless valves

Air gap 4V manifold with head ports matched

1 3/4 headers to 2 1/2 exhaust with cross over pipe.

3 speed FMX with shift kit

recurved dizzy with pertronix conversion

Holley 600 vacuum secondaries

3.20 rear gears posi with traction bars

295 BF radial tires on back.

Goal pull hard 2,000 to 6,000 rpm with slight loopy idle and little as possible mods to the valve train. Trying to avoid head mods like guides and screw studs.

Click to expand...

With power brakes, low compression and a stock converter and valve train, the comp xe262h is about as aggressive as I would get. It will not have much of a lope but if you call comp and have them grind it on a 108 LSA instead of the 110 LSA you might get what you are looking for.

If you use the Crane stud conversion kit (no machining required), adjustable rocker arms and spring for a higher stall converter, you could step up to the xe286h.

As with any cam swap you need to make sure your valve springs are up to the task.

KT-69,

Plus 1 with KT-69 on “If you use the Crane stud conversion kit (no machining required), adjustable rocker arms and spring for a higher stall converter, you could step up to the xe286h.”

Another solution would be the Edelbrock Performer RPM (2172) - 1500 to 6500 rpm Range

If you are still running the original 2V valve train, the valve springs, keepers and rocker arms, all need to be thrown out and replaced. The 2V fulcrums are not designed for performance. The aluminum fulcrums are terrible. If anything, replace them with new 4V parts, or as KT-69 stated, Crane Cam Conversion with good roller rockers.



Source: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/camshafts/ford-bb.shtml

mustang7173

The stock valve springs, fulcrums, and push rods won't support much of a cam (RV type cam). I'd wait to upgrade the cam until you can afford to upgrade the valve train to support a more aggressive cam. If you want to change the cam without upgrading the valve train, contact Bullet Cams and tell them what you have to work with.

Chuck

We have VERY similar cars. Mine is also a 351C-2V, Duraspark ignition w/Accel Super Coil & 8mm wires, Hooker Competition headers into 2.5" Pypes exhaust with X-pipe, 3.00 rear gears, AOD (same gear ratios as FMX w/OD), and 295s out back.

I also have a CompCams K32-421-8 (270/270 w/.566 lift - 215/215 @ .050", 110 lobes) roller cam kit with hydraulic roller lifters, CompCams Hi-Energy pushrods and valve springs, CompCamps Hi-Energy roller rockers and double roller timing chain & gears. (Yeah, I like CompCams ) I added the Crane Cams screw-in 7/16" studs because I didn't want to have to take the heads back for machining as I was ready to build the engine at that point.

The cam is a middle of the road solution, as far as mods go. CompCams had a 9-step listing on their CamQuest utility that helped me pick it out - "1" being direct replacement, and "9" being full-on race cam. Mine was #4 on the list with the description of "good street performance, decent fuel economy, slight choppy idle." #5 was starting to get into the race cam grinds, and I didn't want to go that route.

I did have some mild port & polish on the heads (just to clean up the rough surfaces to help the flow) and had hardened valve seats installed. That's it for work on the heads. Port & polish isn't necessary - I just figured I'd have it done while I was there. I think you'd probably want the hardened valve seats the way gas is these days, though.

The screw-in studs are no big deal. Chase/clean the threads, apply the thread lock, and install them according to the directions (screw 'em in, torque 'em down). Done. Now you can install some roller rockers or even standard rockers that will support the cam upgrade.

As the others have indicated, making a hotter cam fit with factory components will get you mixed results. It might work for awhile, but you'll be on borrowed time with regards to how long the factory stuff will survive. Better to build a little bit bigger if you're going that far.

Hope this helps!

I'm running the same cam and roller rocker setup as Mister 4x4 minus the port and polish and transmission. I don't put on that many miles a year but it has been 5 or 6 years and no issue other than a roller rocker failing, seems like it was caused by a defect.

It is a very driver friendly setup.

Thanks for all feedback and advice the crane non-maching kit sounds like what I need. That gets me in the higher performance cam range without $$$$ machining work. The roller cam sounds like the best choice however I will have to check on the cost might be outside my budget. Those with the roller cam can you discern some loop in the idle...got to have at least a hint of it to be a true muscle machine for me. May end up with the 270H or xe286H will depend on the overall cost.

Here's mine during the first time I fired it up. I think you'd be happy with the 270H.



The Holley 'Black' fuel pump has been replaced with a quieter unit, and I've done some more fine tuning. Sorry about the wind noise on my old HP camera.

Thanks for that...definitely leaning towards the 270H and matched springs. This cam keeps me close to the .500" max lift I had set. Now I have to select the valve train to go with it and the crane stud kit. Found this kit at CJ Pony however not certain that it includes the style of valve keepers I want. Leaning towards stock OEM type 4V rocker arms they always worked well in my past 4V motors up to 6,000 RPM. However not certain if the stock 4V rockers are compatible with the crane stud kit. This is 1st my endeavor into the 2V realm.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/comp-cams-camshaft-set-magnum-270h-hydraulic-flat-tappet-1800-5800-rpm-351c/p/322244-V/

Is this the crane kit? Not really wanting adjustable rockers unless they offer a huge benefit over 4V no hassle rockers. Just looking to add strength and dependability plus the guides.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-52655-16/overview/

Yes - those are the Crane Cams screw-in studs.

I didn't realize the 27H was a flat-tappet kit. I thought you mentioned wanting to go with rollers.

Here's 'the list' of the parts I went with:

Cam Kit

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k32-421-8/overview/make/ford

Roller lifter 'steel spider'

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-31-1000/overview/

Roller rockers

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-17045-16/overview/make/ford

Push Rods

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7825-16

And of course,

Screw-in studs

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-52655-16/overview/

I don't know what your budget is, and this isn't particularly cheap by any means, but I know I'm really happy with it as a package.

Looks like I will have to settle for the 270H FT kit. The roller cams are over and above my budget. You certainly did put together some quality components.

Looks like I will have to settle for the 270H FT kit. The roller cams are over and above my budget. You certainly did put together some quality components.

Click to expand...

For what you are doing the flat tappet cam will be fine. Just use proper breaking procedure and use oil for flat tappet cams.

Chuck

Since you milled the heads .031 you may want to check the valve train geometry and proper push rod length. It is hard to do with sled type rockers.

Chuck

Since you milled the heads .031 you may want to check the valve train geometry and proper push rod length. It is hard to do with sled type rockers.

Click to expand...

So opinions seem to vary on a.031" head shave.

Some say shim the rockers .031"

Some say shorten the push rod length .031" or go to adjustable type.

Others say insignificant amount to be concerned with do nothing.

Anyone want to add their 2 cents?

Since you milled the heads .031 you may want to check the valve train geometry and proper push rod length. It is hard to do with sled type rockers.

Click to expand...

So opinions seem to vary on a.031" head shave.

Some say shim the rockers .031"

Some say shorten the push rod length .031" or go to adjustable type.

Others say insignificant amount to be concerned with do nothing.

Anyone want to add their 2 cents?

Click to expand...

No substitute for checking it.

For extra protection with an aftermarket cam I always add a 12 oz. bottle of Comp cams engine break-in oil additive at every oil change, this product has ALOT of zinc in it needed to keep the cam from wiping lobes over time.

Looking at this cam company they specialize in custom specific Ford cams and offer "run-in" service. Find out more details on Monday.

Cam Research http://www.camresearchcorp.com/

Nice tough looking vert.

Got my cam spec'd by Cam Research Corporation today. Based off the 270H tweaked to my application. Cam and numbered lifters ship broken-in with matched springs and full double race roller timing set timed straight up. Order placed looks like 2-weeks out on delivery.

278 Intake

284 Exhaust

.515/.540

112 lobe