- Joined
- Sep 12, 2015
- Messages
- 7,639
- Reaction score
- 2,760
- Location
- SW Ontario
- My Car
- 1971 Mustang Mach 1, M code, 4 speed.
Apparently, recent shots of my engine bay were well received and a request was made for me to expand on what was done, materials used etc. So here goes!
Brief history: The car was purchased in LA California in 2008. It had only been re-painted once and other than some dress-ups, it was very original and rust free. The engine had never been out and other than the usual replacement of hoses, plug wires and the like, it was untouched. Picture #1
In September 2012, an engine rebuild was needed. Main bearings were shot. While out, the engine bay was tackled for the first time. There was zero rust other than minor surface crud and a very easy scuff down and prep. The entire front end was stripped to the frame. No other way to do it properly and all the inner and outer apron surface joints re-sealed and painted. Black Rocker-Guard was used on the outer apron surface (inner wheel wells) and has proved very durable. The bay itself was gun painted with BSAF single stage black with 35% flattener to give a near perfect original looking sheen. Various other rattle can paints were used to detail other parts. The engine itself was painted with Plasticote Ford Dark Blue. Picture #2 The camera does not really show the color well.
Moving on to December 2013, the entire car was stripped and repainted in it's original Light Pewter, code V. A couple of minor mishaps and the repairs did not look that good, so off to the body shop it went.
The bay was not touched at this time, but some over spray got on the black from the underside during painting. Shortly after, the voltage regulator failed and the new battery puked acid all over the engine and bay. With the use of baking soda to neutralize the acid, a whitish film could not be removed and looked like crap.
At the end of the 2015 season, I pulled the engine again because it was using lots of oil and it just didn't sound right. Turned out the cam and lifters were shot for #1 cylinder as well as all the valve stem seals. Not going to expand on the engine at this time, but it gave me the opportunity to re-do the entire engine compartment. I added a power brake booster and rebuilt the P/S box as well as new heavier anti-sway bars back and front.
This time I did not pull the fenders or front valance, but almost everything else was removed and refinished. Every bolt was replaced with the appropriate finish ( at least where possible).
Eastwood paints were chosen this time for most of the job. For the bulk of the engine bay, Eastwood's 2K Ceramic underhood black, #14147Z was used and has proven to be very robust. It does have some texture, but it cleans up well and looks to be as near correct sheen as possible.
For the chassis frame and related parts, Eastwood #10025Z Satin Chassis Black worked well. 11175Z Extreme Satin Black is also available and is more durable.
On the engine, Dupliclolor 1606 Ford Dark Blue was chosen as it is a bit darker than the Plasticote and to me, looked more as it should. In a previous post, I mentioned that NPD offer a rattle can paint AP-EB that is claimed to be an exact match. As Duplicolor is more easily available to me, I opted for that. It's not a concours car, but looking right, if not perfect, is important. The exhaust manifolds were brush painted with Eastwood High Temp Factory Grey #10365Z. For other engine bits and pieces a general purpose high temp semi-gloss was used and for parts that are Cadmium plated, Eastwood 10022Z looked good. The shock tower braces, hood latch bracket and the headlight bucket vertical supports were painted with NPD's Slop Grey.
Other than that and careful replacing of parts, there you have it.
I go to many car shows where people have spent big bucks on outside paint, spit and polish, but fail to do the engine bay correctly. What a let down!! A good engine bay detailing job wins trophies. I have 3 in the last two summers to prove it.
Not to pick on anyone's cars on the forum, but I do see quite a few that could use a bit of help. In that regard, I hope some of this will be useful.
Geoff.
EDIT: Ok, so it put the pictures in reverse order. Haven't figured out this yet!
Also see my last post , engine paint color, P4, from sgtjd in the engine section.
Brief history: The car was purchased in LA California in 2008. It had only been re-painted once and other than some dress-ups, it was very original and rust free. The engine had never been out and other than the usual replacement of hoses, plug wires and the like, it was untouched. Picture #1
In September 2012, an engine rebuild was needed. Main bearings were shot. While out, the engine bay was tackled for the first time. There was zero rust other than minor surface crud and a very easy scuff down and prep. The entire front end was stripped to the frame. No other way to do it properly and all the inner and outer apron surface joints re-sealed and painted. Black Rocker-Guard was used on the outer apron surface (inner wheel wells) and has proved very durable. The bay itself was gun painted with BSAF single stage black with 35% flattener to give a near perfect original looking sheen. Various other rattle can paints were used to detail other parts. The engine itself was painted with Plasticote Ford Dark Blue. Picture #2 The camera does not really show the color well.
Moving on to December 2013, the entire car was stripped and repainted in it's original Light Pewter, code V. A couple of minor mishaps and the repairs did not look that good, so off to the body shop it went.
The bay was not touched at this time, but some over spray got on the black from the underside during painting. Shortly after, the voltage regulator failed and the new battery puked acid all over the engine and bay. With the use of baking soda to neutralize the acid, a whitish film could not be removed and looked like crap.
At the end of the 2015 season, I pulled the engine again because it was using lots of oil and it just didn't sound right. Turned out the cam and lifters were shot for #1 cylinder as well as all the valve stem seals. Not going to expand on the engine at this time, but it gave me the opportunity to re-do the entire engine compartment. I added a power brake booster and rebuilt the P/S box as well as new heavier anti-sway bars back and front.
This time I did not pull the fenders or front valance, but almost everything else was removed and refinished. Every bolt was replaced with the appropriate finish ( at least where possible).
Eastwood paints were chosen this time for most of the job. For the bulk of the engine bay, Eastwood's 2K Ceramic underhood black, #14147Z was used and has proven to be very robust. It does have some texture, but it cleans up well and looks to be as near correct sheen as possible.
For the chassis frame and related parts, Eastwood #10025Z Satin Chassis Black worked well. 11175Z Extreme Satin Black is also available and is more durable.
On the engine, Dupliclolor 1606 Ford Dark Blue was chosen as it is a bit darker than the Plasticote and to me, looked more as it should. In a previous post, I mentioned that NPD offer a rattle can paint AP-EB that is claimed to be an exact match. As Duplicolor is more easily available to me, I opted for that. It's not a concours car, but looking right, if not perfect, is important. The exhaust manifolds were brush painted with Eastwood High Temp Factory Grey #10365Z. For other engine bits and pieces a general purpose high temp semi-gloss was used and for parts that are Cadmium plated, Eastwood 10022Z looked good. The shock tower braces, hood latch bracket and the headlight bucket vertical supports were painted with NPD's Slop Grey.
Other than that and careful replacing of parts, there you have it.
I go to many car shows where people have spent big bucks on outside paint, spit and polish, but fail to do the engine bay correctly. What a let down!! A good engine bay detailing job wins trophies. I have 3 in the last two summers to prove it.
Not to pick on anyone's cars on the forum, but I do see quite a few that could use a bit of help. In that regard, I hope some of this will be useful.
Geoff.
EDIT: Ok, so it put the pictures in reverse order. Haven't figured out this yet!
Also see my last post , engine paint color, P4, from sgtjd in the engine section.
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