Jump to content

My car is alive


Recommended Posts

My 73 fastback has had electrical problems for over a year now. I could not find the problem so I found this awesome guy on here, ripped every wire out of my car and sent them to him. The re-install wasn't as bad as I thought it would be and his tech support on the phone was WAY beyond awesome. Thank you Mid Life. My Mach's alive and running great. Everything works. Even my horn.Lol. I havent heard that in 20 years..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know about the forum but I am happy you got your Mustang running!


73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)


Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]


Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is rare to find someone as willing to help as Mid-life. Outstanding support!



This is truly a understatement. He spent a long time on the phone with me and was VERY patient...even though I interrupted his lunch..Lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My first response on this thread was due to a duplicate entry by Scott, which has since been changed.


It's amazing what a little detective work can do to solve problems. Scott's original problem was that he couldn't get the engine to continue running after it caught while cranking. While working on his headlight harness, I found no continuity between the I line and the engine gauge feed harness. The copper wires near the 90* connector at the starter solenoid had disintegrated inside the insulation: you couldn't see anything wrong. I replaced that lead and problem solved.


Just last weekend, I had a customer who claimed his ammeter never worked with factory wiring. He cobbled together a system bypassing the headlight/fusebox connector, wiring the ammeter directly to where they start inside the headlight harness. While I was checking out his 3 gauge center dash cluster, the yellow wire for the ammeter had a megaohm of resistance. Closer inspection showed that the factory crimp of the wire onto the pin that goes into the connector was bad; probably that way from the factory. Problem solved.

Let me check your shorts!




Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Create New...