What gaskets to use?

I just won an Edelbrock 2750 intake on ebay and plan to install it in the next bit. I've searched on here trying to figure out what I need and have come across different answers and am hoping for some help. Will I need a valley pan gasket (please say why or why not)? Do I just need "the right stuff" gasket maker (in addition to or in place of gasket) or are there other gaskets I'll need? This will be my first intake swap on a V8, but I do have mechanics in the family I can ask for help if needed.

You will get a lot of posts on gasket choices. Two bits of advice for your first intake swap on a Cleveland. First, no need to drain the coolant. No coolant flows in your intake. This is awesome because it also means coolant doesn't spill into the engine (and your oil) when you do the swap. YES!

Second, there are four smaller bolts on either side of the carb. These are the only perpendicular bolts to the intake. They go through the manifold and into the head. I found it helpful to get some all thread and cut it long enough so that I can slip the intake over the all thread. It will help make lining it up a lot easier. THen you screw in the other bolts finger tight, remove the all thread, replace with the proper bolts and torque to specs.

I followed his advice above and all went well.

I appreciate the info. So just to be clear;I don't need to drain any coolant, or just not all of it?

Nevermind, I just looked at the intake again and get what you're saying.

Most 'manuals' will have you drain the coolant, that's why I mentioned it. My Chiltons does for sure.

If you go turkey pan do a quick test fit with the manifold upside down. Make sure the bump from the lowest runner doesn't hit the pan. I had this problem on a much older edelbrock f351 manifold. Bumped it just enough to pull the pan down and cause a leak at the ports.

I used the edelbrock gaskets. No turkey pan. Black RTV at the front and back of the intake, don't use the rubber seals on the end of the intake use the Black RTV. Use about a nice 1/4" bead across front and back. No RTV on the intake gaskets themselves. Torque bolts from inside to outside. Pretty easy swap. I can do mine in less than an hour. got really good at it since I had 3 lifters collapse.

on the front and rear rails, it is also possible to take a punch and dimple them a bit on both the intake and the block. This makes blowing the front or rear gasket/sealant out less likely. No need to go crazy with the punch.

I don't use the turkey pan, while it keeps hot oil off the underside of the manifold, it does make sealing a bit more challenging.

When cleaning old gaskets off, block the ports with a paper towel or the like and afterwards, clean and vacuum them out to make sure nothing fell in.

Not sure if I should start another thread or not, but I'm hoping someone can tell me if I'll need an extension for the automatic kickdown cable to connect to an Edelbrock 1405 600 cfm carburetor?

sasquatch20

According to Edelbrock,



Edelbrock Instructions

http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/300/350/350-2750.pdf



http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/1405/10002/-1

mustang7173 :bravo: