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1971 MUSTANG DYNACORN FULL QUARTER PANEL INSTALL


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Hi has anyone installed a set of full quarter panels on their car. I was looking at it today. how to install it? there are several installations points on the panel such as the roof line, and quarter window area, door pillar area, and drip molding area. which area is first for the install? this picture is a quarter panel from dynacorn. it is just resting on the car. was looking at it early today trying to figure out how to factory install the item. any ideas would be appreciated thanks aypsears

1631585563_quarterpanel049.thumb.JPG.09e761a3a12e3b0d1d96e1b188b196f3.JPG

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No idea but it sure looks like a nice piece

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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OK, I have not done that either, but I had it done to my car.

 

1) Measure: The 1/4 panel actually went under the roof panel at the factory, but I don't think you want to go through that trouble as most people don't. So measure the following.

a) The rear Window Opening: Your Bright trim is a great piece to lay in there and make sure it fits without binding.(Ask me why I am telling you this first if you dare.)

b) Clamp your new tail light panel in and measure to make it square and centered.

c) Clamp your B-Pillar . Make sure it is not tipping in or out. A lot of people will put the door back on to make sure the B-pillar is jigged and oriented properly.

d) Align your deck lid gap. Make sure the gap does not close or spread as it approaches the back of the vehicle.

2) Measure again: get your factory numbers from the forum to make sure that your lengths, widths, heights ect are all within spec. If the numbers don't jive, Ask a lot of questions here.

3) Drill small holes for your spot welds/fasteners. I think people tend to want to make a 1/4inch hole to weld their panels on. The guy who welded mine on made great looking welds and started with small holes.

 

4) Check everything after each weld. Duplicate the number and spacing of factory spot welds. CHECK your welds!!!

 

Just going from what I have learned. I hope that helps!!

 

kcmash

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Great advice! There's a video by QCode351Mach (Scott) where he installed his OEM full quarters on this site. He mentioned the biggest thing you need to do is take your time - it's not going to be a case of everything lines up the first time without any adjustments.

 

A couple of other notables:

  • Definitely have your doors on and able to close properly to ensure the gaps and contours are correct
  • When you finally get everything lined up with the clamps, zap in a few self-tapping sheet metal screws in the 'weld' areas to keep it in-place just in case the clamps fail
  • Get a flange/punch tool from Harbor Freight to punch the holes in your weld areas - goes a lot faster and doesn't distort the sheet metal like drilling might
  • 3M Panel Adhesive is a great alternative to welding - I distorted the crap out of my quarter skins by welding too quickly and had to redo the passenger side... I used 3M PA and things went much smoother for me.

 

Hope this helps!

Eric

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I'm getting ready to do this for a guy on his 71 mach1. Eric do you have the link to Q's video? I looked but could not find it. Just want to see what it looks like under there!

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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The search doesn't seem to be hitting on it, so here's a link to his own website with the Mach 1 restoration videos. I think the 4th and 5th videos might talk about them - it looks like there are clamps on and around the quarter panel areas.

 

http://www.saturdaymorninggarage.com/category/restorations/

 

Hope this helps!

Eric

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Before ever doing any major body repair you should have visited your local frame straightening guy. He needed to make sure the base of your car is set to the correct plane for a start.

I just went and looked at a car that had a quarter replaced and did not buy because nothing was in the right place. It was 1/4" off checking from factory tooling holes. You cannot put it right after. They make carts to hold the chassis in the correct position while working the body. If you do not have one you should invest in one. You will chase fit from door to fender to trunk to roof if you do not hold the body in the correct position when replacing panels. It is not uncommon to have to modify replacements by huge amounts. Even by an inch or more. They are very sorry parts. A friend did a 68 mustang and the left front fender had to be cut and made shorter by 1". They do not make these panels from prints but from parts that are existing. They are twisted and in wrong position when they get their dimensions so nothing fits.

I was an automotive tooling engineer for last 20 years so not just an opinion it is how it is. I wish Ford would have given them the prints there were no computers or limited then. They worked from mahogany patterns during this time frame. Of course they got destroyed so nothing to base the repo from except a part flopping in the breeze.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Before ever doing any major body repair you should have visited your local frame straightening guy. He needed to make sure the base of your car is set to the correct plane for a start.

They make carts to hold the chassis in the correct position while working the body. If you do not have one you should invest in one. You will chase fit from door to fender to trunk to roof if you do not hold the body in the correct position when replacing panels.

100% Correct- looking at the picture having the ass end of the car unsupported like that =problems. You need to jig the entire back end in the correct position

Not just 4 jack stands at the rockers. The full qtr installs quite easily, Just takes rotating it to get the roof and window overlap--put a few spacers under the roof joint to keep it open while working. the rear window area requires a few pry bars to get the overlap. Best to have a helper

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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  • 2 weeks later...

The car should be resting on it's suspension so there is no distortion or stress on the body.. Hang the quarter panel and secure it with vise grips so you can unclamp and reclamp as needed.. with the door in the closed position, align the quarter panel to the lock pillar to obtain clean straight lines flush with the outside surface.. Clamp it to the rocker panel if at all possible too.. I sometimes use Gorilla tape. Secure the quarter panel to the outer wheel house with c-clamps or (my personal favorite) vise grips so that it will mate evenly all around.. Next would be the trunk drop off at the bottom. As you work your way up to the trunk opening, attach the trunk lid and again, secure the quarter panel for the best lines along the trunk and mate it to the drip flange where the weather strip is located. you can align the quarter panel to the roof in the same manner so the sail panel lays flat into the original pinch weld. The rear window pinch weld must be flat and flush all around to prevent leaks after the glass is installed. By this time the opening at the quarter window will be in line with the inner support panel which can also be secured.. The last area to tack is the outer wheelhouse in case you need to pull it down or shift it left or right.. They are not perfect.

 

From here, just tweek each area for the best fit.. Once you are satisfied, tack weld at several locations all around.. Do not tack weld in successive lines.. for example, put one tack at the bottom of the lock pillar, one at the bottom of the trunk drop off, one at the trunk opening as you work your way around.. Believe it or not, the panel will shift so keep checking for straight lines.. Most importantly, take your time because you may need to cut a tack weld to preposition the sheet metal..

 

This is the best method I have found using aftermarket sheet metal to obtain the most pleasing fit.. I use a mig welder, but a flux mig welder will work just as well,, they're just a bit more messy..

 

Hope this helps..

The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it. 

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  • 11 months later...

What was the end result for installing the quarter?  How did you get it to fit correctly and where did you start?

1969 Acapulco Blue Convertible

     408C CJ, 5 Spd

1973 Lava Red Mach 1

     351C, 4V, AOD

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  • 2 months later...

What was the end result for installing the quarter?  How did you get it to fit correctly and where did you start?

 

Hi there I did not have any more time in 2016 to complete the rear end of The car. After I posted the picture of the quarter I continued doing other repairs to the car. So I am hoping this year I will have some spare time to finishing hanging all the rear sheet metal and get it tacked up. Will see

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