U-POL direct to metal 2k High build primer. Anyone use it? NEW PICS! Opinions?

Hey guys, just wondering if any of you have any experience with the UPOl 2k high build primer? They say you can use it direct to metal for repairs and not have to spray epoxy primer down first. Can be used as DTM high build, a surfacer, or a sealer. With different mix ratios. And its tintable. I bought a gallon and figured I would give it a try on some rocker panels and cab corners im doing on a guys truck. If it works well it would save a lot of time and money from having to shoot epoxy primer first. If I was doing a higher end repair or full paint job I would definitely use the epoxy primer first for the great adhesion, but small repairs like this might not be bad. I have used some UPOL products in the past with very good results. Let me know what you guys think!

Hi Kevin,

We get Upol products here in Australia. They are a British based company. I have not used the 2K high build primer you mention here, so sorry, i can't make proper comment on it. The thing is that some paint companies demand you use an etch primer on bare steel first before the 2k primers go down, and some don't, so it always pays to consult the tech reference data first before using any product. I did some quick research on the net, and Upol's web site is being upgraded right now , so i couldn't get the tech info i was chasing.

How ever, i did get hold of a tech PDF product reference, and it basically says you don't need to use an etch primer first on bare steel - you do though with aluminium and gal steel.

Maybe Scott might have more tech knowledge or background on that primer product and can be of help to you there.

Greg.

Kevin,

We carry a similar 3-N-1 product that sounds similar to the U-Pol. It's among our best selling primers to the do it yourselfer and smaller shops. Claims to have grip on bare steel up to basketball sized areas. The only weak spot, if there is one, is as a wet on wet sealer it just isn't as "good" as some others in the smoothness. Think about it though, a true do it all product, whether is primer or dish soap or grass seed, really doesn't exist. I think, for your intended use, the U-Pol will be more than sufficient.

Cavity wax that repair well, and it will likely outlast the rest of the truck. Aaaah, gotta love these PA roads...

I have just finished a complete paint job starting with UPOL 2k. I sprayed it on bare metal and blocked it twice. Went on nice and sanded nice. I did not want to use it as a sealer as there is no "one product does all". I used an epoxy non sanding sealer over it. Job turned out nice.

I've been using quite a bit of the u-pol products as of lately in the shop for "cheap budget work" and a select few products (mainly fillers fiberal ) for some of the higher end stuff. I like their stuff good value for the money. I see no reason not to use the dtm primer for that application. All my show stuff I still prefer SPI fantastic value for the money with a proven track record. I just used their base and universal clear on a show honda I'm doing..Great stuff..great price..user friendly, The uv clear lays down like glass no buffing on these parts ! Oh and the by the way I did all these parts with cheap harbor freight hvlp guns worked beautiful !!!

Thanks for the input guys. I just finished up the truck and used the Upol high build dtm and it layed down really nice and sanded out pretty easy. I have been using more and more of UPOL's products and they seem to be pretty good products. I just used their gravel guard chip protector on this truck too and it seems to work very well also. This is the 2nd time I used it. Heres a couple pics of what I was working with. Had to replace some of the seat risers and floor pan, the channel the rockers gets welded to, inner rocker, outer rocker, cab corners, and front edge of bed. Cut out all the old rust and welded in new metal. Body worked, primed, chip guarded, painted. I will probably start reassembly tonight. And I will probably use the hugh build primer again, but use a dedicated sealer over it before paint on future jobs. Just out of curiosity, how much do you think I should be charging for a job like this?? I supplied all the material except the outer rockers. Just curious what you guys think. And again thanks for all the replies and sorry about all the pics...I put a bunch up.

Personally I don't even get involved with any rust repair unless I'm getting paid by the hour + materials I charge 75.00 per hour. Take it or leave it.

^^^ +1 on that. I never qoute a price on rust repair just because you always find more than what you can see snd charge by the hour on that work. My rate is $95 an hour. ( we have a healthy business tax up here )

Looks like some good work!

Thanks for the input guys. Yeah this started out as outer rocker and 1 cab corner. And turned into what you see. I usually charge $35/hr for metal work. I got into a lot more work than originally thought. But I don't do this stuff for a living, just some side work to help pay for fun stuff for the mustang and building a bigger garage. Maybe I need to bump my prices up a touch!

I usually charge $35/hr for metal work. I got into a lot more work than originally thought. But I don't do this stuff for a living, just some side work to help pay for fun stuff for the mustang and building a bigger garage. Maybe I need to bump my prices up a touch!

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No don't raise your prices I could actually send stuff to you, keep you busy for ever and still make 40.00 a hour without getting my hands dirty AWSOME

I usually charge $35/hr for metal work. I got into a lot more work than originally thought. But I don't do this stuff for a living, just some side work to help pay for fun stuff for the mustang and building a bigger garage. Maybe I need to bump my prices up a touch!

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No don't raise your prices I could actually send stuff to you, keep you busy for ever and still make 40.00 a hour without getting my hands dirty AWSOME

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LOL!! I have been plenty busy!! I really enjoy doing the metal work, just hate doing the body work!! I ended up charging $1500 materials included for the truck.

Been doing alot of sheetmetal replacement for guys that want to do their own body work but don't have the skills or equipment to do the welding. Which works out great for me. Heres some of a 79 Trans am I did this summer. I didn't have to do any body work. Guy just wanted rear quarters and rockers, and few other small spots fixed up.