Chassis and Suspension upgrades

It's been a while since I've seen one. When the full frames first came out you had to cut out the floor panel and lay the shell on it and custom cut the sheet metal for it to fit properly and lower the car for that killer stance the PT crowd aims for.

I was heavily into the pro-touring crowd and if you start with a full frame the rest of the car parts should be of the same quality which means your build can easily end up over $60k in parts and labor.

Having said that, I would go with an independent rear suspension and a coil-over front. Stiffen up the chassis underneath and custom fab a 6 point roll cage that conceals well. The engine compartment firewall should tie onto the shock towers then onto the front subframe by the upper arms.

Two piece light weight rotors, properly sized ft/rr sway bars and Bilstein shocks go a long way in improving the driving dynamics of the car.

Just my 2 cents..

Click to expand...

It's been a while since I've seen one. When the full frames first came out you had to cut out the floor panel and lay the shell on it and custom cut the sheet metal for it to fit properly and lower the car for that killer stance the PT crowd aims for.

I was heavily into the pro-touring crowd and if you start with a full frame the rest of the car parts should be of the same quality which means your build can easily end up over $60k in parts and labor.

Having said that, I would go with an independent rear suspension and a coil-over front. Stiffen up the chassis underneath and custom fab a 6 point roll cage that conceals well. The engine compartment firewall should tie onto the shock towers then onto the front subframe by the upper arms.

Two piece light weight rotors, properly sized ft/rr sway bars and Bilstein shocks go a long way in improving the driving dynamics of the car.

Just my 2 cents..

Click to expand...

:goodpost:::thumb::::thumb::::thumb::

Great advice and can be done for a 1/6 the cost of a full frame.

Both my cars have most of the above minus the I.R. and 6 point cage.

Street or track front coilover kit -subframe connectors-properly sized sway bars-and of course the Bilsteins.

Click to expand...

It's been a while since I've seen one. When the full frames first came out you had to cut out the floor panel and lay the shell on it and custom cut the sheet metal for it to fit properly and lower the car for that killer stance the PT crowd aims for.

I was heavily into the pro-touring crowd and if you start with a full frame the rest of the car parts should be of the same quality which means your build can easily end up over $60k in parts and labor.

Having said that, I would go with an independent rear suspension and a coil-over front. Stiffen up the chassis underneath and custom fab a 6 point roll cage that conceals well. The engine compartment firewall should tie onto the shock towers then onto the front subframe by the upper arms.

Two piece light weight rotors, properly sized ft/rr sway bars and Bilstein shocks go a long way in improving the driving dynamics of the car.

Just my 2 cents..

Click to expand...

:goodpost:::thumb::::thumb::::thumb::

Great advice and can be done for a 1/6 the cost of a full frame.

Both my cars have most of the above minus the I.R. and 6 point cage.

Street or track front coilover kit -subframe connectors-properly sized sway bars-and of course the Bilsteins.

Click to expand...

Per Q above, I am in the throes of installing a Street or Track coil over kit (bought from him and saved some $$$), Bilstein rear shocks, 4 1/2 leaf mid-eye leafs, new Moog steering stuff and a Power Steering Services fast ratio (12.7:1) conversion on my steering box. I cannot wait to feel the difference given it is and "all at once" install and replacing an original well worn system. I also welded in Global West's sub-frame connectors. Less than $3k for it all.

Click to expand...