Stanglover, thanks - someone posted, earlier, not to put an LED in the lower right position and the chart is showing the upper right position. But I only took out 4 bulbs and there are 7 positions, therefore the other two along with the alternator position will not have a bulb - is that correct?
I am thinking the other positions were for the idiot lights - which I do not have (I have the center console gauges)
So, you have gauges and a clock, no tach? Are the gauges factory? I assume they are as the clock has no idiot lights. Back then, there were some strange combinations that really make no sense to us today.
Also, I assume you have the circuit board that would also be used for idiot light, (top one pictured for Elite series LED's in Eddyw's post) if so, you would be correct and only use bulbs where needed. There would be no alternator bulb as you have the gauge. If there was no bulb in that bottom position, do not put one in (obviously). The red high-beam light is OK with an LED (red)
You are correct in saying there was a post before on this. I had posted and midlife also correctly commented on the Alt socket issue. Hope Hi-PO Parts have corrected that by now!!
As I mentioned, I wanted to keep the original hue for my instrument lights. I was not happy with the Extreme set I bought earlier, still not bright enough for my liking. The Elite LED's work great and now I can actually see my dash at night.
I'm sure you will enjoy your choice of green lights, but please let us know the outcome.
Geoff.
Edit note; TIP. When you go to wire in your new Rocketman tach, use bullet type connectors in the wires about 8" or so from the tach and add these connectors before running wires and installing the tach. (trust me it's way harder if you don't!!) That way, you can easily remove the instrument pod as and when required. MAKE SURE you have a good clean ground on the black wire. Solder the connectors as well. I used a Butane micro-torch and color keyed heat shrink over the terminals for easy reference.