Ka-Chunk - Need some engine advice

Earlier this spring I had a new carb, intake and electronic distributor installed (along with new plugs and wires, tune-up and oil change). The motor is a 302. When I got the car back, I noticed a ticking noise. After doing some googling, I called my mechanic, told him about the noise, and asked him if it could be a rod. he assured me that it was an exhaust leak at the manifold. He had noticed it when working on the car, and was supposed to be getting a quote for a new dual exhaust from the headers back.

Fast forward to last Tuesday. I was driving the car into town on the interstate when the ticking noise became very, very loud. I decided I was going to get off on the next exit, but didn't make it that far. I ended up hearing a loud "Ker-Chunk", and it seemed like the engine lost a significant amount of power. I pulled off onto the shoulder and called a tow truck.

I checked the oil when I got home, and it's at least 2 quarts low. AFAIK, the car does/did not have an oil leak, unless it's something like a rear main seal and only leaks when the car is running. I've only had it out maybe a half dozen times this year, since all the work was done in the spring. The radiator seems to have plenty of coolant in it.

I have convinced myself that the engine is shot, but I don't know that for a fact. I called a local, reputable shop (that's known for mustang work). They gave me a ballpark figure of 6-8000 for a mild 302 crate engine. Not doubting that this is a fair-ish price, but I feel like I could save a significant amount of money if I replaced it myself (with the help of some knowledgeable friends and folks from this forum), and I would get to learn a lot more about my car in the process.

My long term plans for this car is for it to be a nice, reliable car that I could take on a cross country trip, and not worry about it breaking down. Of course I would love a great looking engine bay, and shiny stuff, but not at the expense of reliability. I would also like to replace the FMX with something that has overdrive.

What should be my next steps? Does the engine I have now require a teardown to confirm my fears? If it has thrown a rod, is it even worth trying to salvage, or should I start looking for a short/long block? Are there any "affordable" short/long blocks that would meet my needs, or do I need to find something used and have it machined? Any advice is appreciated.

Is it possible to turn the engine over at all? I would check that first and go from there.

You shouldn't make any decisions until you learn what the problem really is. More than likely, you've thrown a rod and the engine may or may not be salvageable (most likely though, it will be).

You have several options to consider:

• rebuild, if it's rebuildable
  
• get a salvage yard, craigslist, or ebay engine, rebuild as required
  
• get a long or short block from somewhere like Advance, O'Reilly, NAPA, etc.
  
• go with a crate motor
  
• all of the above: either have someone do it, or do it yourself
  

The engine block itself is a lot more resilient than you think. Mine sat for I can only imagine was something like 30 years, seized up, full of water, and rusting away. I tore it apart, had it checked, and the machine shop bored, balanced, blueprinted, and otherwise gave it back to me ready to go back together. I decided to build mine with go-fast goodies, so my 'budget' was not very restricted.

It sounds like you have a pretty good idea of what you want... now you just need to find out what you have to work with.

The AOD and AOD-E have the same gear ratios as the FMX (so, no surprises there) with the added overdrive gear - the difference being mechanical vs. electronic internal line pressure control (hence, the 'E' of the AOD-E). The 4R70W is also an electronically controlled transmission with slightly different gear ratios, offering more performance than the AOD/AOD-E, still with the benefit of overdrive. The conversion kits offered aren't too expensive, either. The transmissions are fairly straightforward to install, as well.

I would say to rebuild what you have (if possible) and look to replace the FMX with an AOD, AOD-E, or 4R70W. That would be the most economical way to go, IMHO. You can save more money by doing some of the things yourself to save from being charged labor. For instance, removing and pulling the engine apart, cleaning the engine, cleaning up the engine compartment while the engine is out, etc. Getting a gear-head friend to help and renting some tools (like an engine stand, engine hoist, etc.) can save money as well.

Hope this helps!

Sorry to hear about the problems, but it sounds like you have braced yourself for the worst.

Rarely have I heard of a rotating assembly failing with a sudden clunk and loss of power, so I would suggest the following.

1) Pull the coil wire and crank the engine. Does it crank? Does it crank at normal speed and sound? Does it crank consistent?

2) If it cranks good, replace the coil wire. Try to start the car. Does it start? Does it idle? Any strange noises.

3) Have a beer and post your results.

If the rotating assembly is shot, it's shot. these tests will not harm it any further.

If it won't crank, then you probably spun a bearing in a rod journal or main journal, which confirms that you get to but a new engine in!

If you can get it to run, try to isolate the area the noise comes from. Top of the engine(Valve cover, intake, etc) or down low in the engine. If you have lost a rod or main bearing it should sound like someone striking the engine block with a steel hammer in a steady rhythm. If there is an inconsistent higher pitched knocking, you might have lost a rocker arm. ( I had that happen once in college.)

Let us know.

kcmash

pop the distributor cap and see if the rotor turns when turning the engine over by hand, you may have sheared the oil pump drive. Original engines had nylon covered teeth on the timing gear set, when they get old and fail, the debris gets in the pan and when a bit makes its way into the oil pump it will seize it up and shear the drive shaft that runs from the bottom of the distributor.

You can pull the fuel pump and get a straight shot at a view of the timing chain to check for slack or damage.

Pulling the spark plugs will reveal mechanical damage if you broke a rod

Pulling the valve covers will reveal bent pushrods and damaged or broken rocker arms/ dropped valves.

Start with the easiest things first.